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Found an ad local (which is shocking given the local market) for a used Quintana Roo Seduza. From the picture it looks to be an '08. I don't really NEED a Tri bike, but was thinking of getting one if the price was right for tri training and to take the clip ons off my Allez.

I know some very knowledgeable fonts are wary of buying used carbon, and for good reason. That given, if one were going to put a number on a (assuming good condition) used '08 carbon, Dura Ace rear/shifters, tri bike that was new $2500 what would it be. What should I look for in the rest ride and inspection on carbon? The guy is looking to sell and his Craigslist ad has since expired. But I don't want to be unreasonable either. Thoughts?
 

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Found an ad local (which is shocking given the local market) for a used Quintana Roo Seduza. From the picture it looks to be an '08. I don't really NEED a Tri bike, but was thinking of getting one if the price was right for tri training and to take the clip ons off my Allez.

I know some very knowledgeable fonts are wary of buying used carbon, and for good reason. That given, if one were going to put a number on a (assuming good condition) used '08 carbon, Dura Ace rear/shifters, tri bike that was new $2500 what would it be. What should I look for in the rest ride and inspection on carbon? The guy is looking to sell and his Craigslist ad has since expired. But I don't want to be unreasonable either. Thoughts?
Keeping in mind I don't know your local market for used bikes, haven't seen this bike and am taking your word for the 'new' price and the bike being in 'good' condition, my ballpark number would be ~$800.

The test ride should be like any other. No unusual noises, no play or binding in bearing assemblies and (stating the obvious) the bike should handle well, stop and go.

On the frame/ fork, look for signs of impact (scratches, scuffs). As long as they're mostly on the surface, they're acceptable. Gouges that go through to the carbon/ resin, are not.

Under careful inspection, external cracks should be obvious, but where it gets tricky is cracks that appear superficial (clear coat/ paint cracks). In those cases, you can use a coin to tap around the area(s) in question. If the tone changes, that could indicate a structural crack. Check carefully around all tubing junctions (head tube, BB, seat tube/ stays)

Internal problems are all but impossible to diagnose, thus the reason I don't recommend buying used CF. I think what I'd do in this case is (as best as is possible) itemize all the components, frame and fork and try to determine what dollar amount would be lost in the event of a frame failure. This way, you may be able to decide if the (low) purchase price is worth the risk in a worse case scenario.

HTH and good luck, whatever you decide...
 
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