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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently took your advice and tried to get what was best for me out of it ending up with a set of Velocity a23's laced to 105 hubs. These are brand new wheels and did not come with rim strips. I have tried several variations of rim strips and at this point I am ready to throw this wheelset off a cliff. I've gone through at least 5 tubes and 8 patch jobs and have only ridden for about 12 miles total. I've tried gorilla tape (too weak and it broke through), velox cloth tape (10mm, 13mm and 16mm...none of which would stay in place, even with some added rubber cement to help it stick), and some plastic tape put on by the LBS...

NOT ONE of these has kept the tubes inflated. Every hole I get is on the inside caused by one of the spokes. Even the plastic stuff slides a bit. For whatever reason, I think these rims are cursed.

Solutions?
 

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Your comment "caused by one of the spokes" I find hard to believe. Do you mean "caused by one of the spoke holes"? If it's the latter then you should be more accurate with your descriptions. It helps us help you. If it really is "caused by one of the spokes" then that wheelset has got real problems and no tape will cure it.

I've never had a problem with either Velox or Pacenti blue tape (2 layers). I looked at the profile of that rim and it seems to have quite a deep center channel. The solution really is what Dave said (he must have taped hundreds of rims) or my solution which will fix the problem for sure. I use 3M blue tape (looks JUST like Pacenti) in 18/19mm width (my Pacenti is 21mm). I'd run a strip of it right down the center; stretching the snot out of it. Then (seeing as the tape is narrower than the rim) I'd run another layer over to the right tire bead seat and then another layer over to the left bead seat.

Job done. You now have three layers over the holes and if anything moves (two layers of my 19mm tape doesn't) then no hole will come uncovered, unless they're sharp enough to chaw their way through 3 layers of tape. And then, as Dave said, you should have de-burred them first.
 

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I've used the Richtey snap-on rim strips on a set of HED C2 wheelset that I have (custom build with those rims) and no issues. I believe they are the 17mm wide ones.

My other HED wheelsets have the HED C2 branded rim tape and that also works great too (these are also snap-on types designed for the 23mm wide C2 rim).
 

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As a helpful bit of info for any others who may stumble across this thread.........generally, "tubeless ready" rims cannot use traditional rim tape or strips. ie: Velocity, HED, Pacenti, Chinese carbon,etc. You have to use a "tubeless" type tape even when using tubes. One of the downfalls imo of road tubeless is the high pressure aspect. Tubeless tape applications have to be done very well with attention to detail to prevent eventual leak-down caused by the air simply finding it's way out, or wearing out the tape. I have also found that the wider the better when it comes to tape. Go as wide as you possibly can running the tape up both sides of the rim sidewall. Makes the beads slightly tighter, there are no edges to lift, and far less prone to damage when changing/removing/installing tires.
Anyway, even with tubes............use tubeless tape as ND suggests.
 

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Velocity Velo Plugs unfortunately don't work in A23s. From Velocity's site:
Red plugs fit non-eyeleted Velocity rims (A23 & A23 OC rims do not accept Veloplugs) and most rims with 7.7-8.3mm diameter web holes

ghettocop has it straight - tubeless tape is absolutely the best option for any tubeless ready rim for the reasons he states, and his width advice is perfect.

There are a lot of good options now (Stan's, Pacenti, Schwalbe, DT Swiss, TESA, 3M 8898, etc) and all of them work pretty darn well. DT and Schwalbe (same tape, very good, kinda pricey) need just one wrap, while most others need two for road use. Tubeless tapes also have the benefit of being very thin, which makes tire installation easier (by far) than if you use thick tapes with this type of rim.

Stan's has the best instructions for wrapping that I've yet seen.

khardrunner14 - if you do happen to get frustrated enough to chuck the wheels off a cliff, take them out of the bike first. The secondary market for those frames is HOT.
 

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One more vote on two layers of Stan's 21mm tape for 17mm internal width rims for either tubed or tubeless tires. As said earlier, run it as far out on the bead shelf and under the bead hook as you can.
 

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changingleaf
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Like others have mentioned use two layers of thin tubeless tape like Stan's. Use 23 or 24mm wide tape. That rim has a larger than average center channel diameter and most other tapes will make the diameter even larger and bunch up at the sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys, I hope it works. I literally have 6-8 tubes in my shop now with patches and none left without!

I am headed up to another LBS today to get some tape
 

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I built a set of wheels for my wife about 4 years ago using an A-23 and Ultegra Hubs. Pretty sure all I used was a Velox cloth rim tape. I think she has had one flat in 4 years and that was a piece of shell piercing the 28C Conti Gatorskins I put on the wheels. Given that experience, I suspect that something is either wrong with the technique you are using to apply the tape that is allowing the tubes to expand into a spoke hole or your tire mounting skills may need some work. Good luck in any event.
 

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I'm still wondering why it would be necessary to use tubeless tape in a tubeless ready rim even if you are not going tubeless. How would this solve the problem? Am I missing something?

I am reminded of this quote from Eric of Fairwheel bikes when he reviewed the Velocity A23:

Alloy Rim Roundup - Fairwheel Bikes Blog

Eric: "I wish I didn’t have to clean out the rims before building them. They always have some shavings in them from drilling the spoke holes."
 

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Not sure why you're blaming the rim for rim tape issues. A hole is a hole. Either something else about the rim is giving you flats, you're doing a lousy good taping, or you're messing up the tape with a tire jack when putting on tires would be my guess.
 

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I prepped the internals of the spoke holes with a countersink and blew lots of compressed air into the rims when done. No problems with shavings in my set.
 

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I prepped the internals of the spoke holes with a countersink and blew lots of compressed air into the rims when done. No problems with shavings in my set.
Good thing you did but this is ridiculous! I cant see why this is left to the customer to do and in the process also exposing them to taking the chance of over-countersinking the spoke hole.
 

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Ron has posted here his deburring process for these rims but still I believe this should be done at the factory before the rims are released for sale.
 
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