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Wax lubes or Dry lubes... ??

20121 Views 175 Replies 36 Participants Last post by  Lombard
I've been using my homebrew since day 1 with my bike.. Thanks to you guys for the formula..

OMS and motor oil..

It seems to work pretty good.. Honestly I wouldn't know what bad lube would do or wouldn't do..

That being said.. I wipe my chain after every ride with a clean towel.. and keep doing it till the dirt/grease is gone.. Then every 60-100 miles I spray with my homebrew all over my chain, I douse it.. Then clean with a towel over and over.. then spray again.. Let it sit for a while.. Wipe again..

But I was thinking tomorrow I was going to do a full clean job on my chain this time with a brush.. To get down and deep..I take pride in the way my bike looks and operates.. Even though I have Sora and other entry level components, my bike shifts gears perfectly! and I have no chain noise at all..

But I was thinking.. I was at walmart today and once again White Lightning got in my face.. They sell this stuff at high end bike shops too.. I like the fact it uses a wax in it.. you can see you need to shake the bottle before hand..

Whats the deal with these types of lubes?? I understand how mine works.. my homebrew.. The OMS allows for a thiner solution which allows to penetrate deep into the chain rollers.. But when the OMS I'm left with motor oil.. which if its good for my car, its gonna be good for my bike..

Now with these wax lubes that white lightning has and others.. I understand the wax has a small build up around the chain.. which does two things.. protects the chain from dirt and will also push out dirt that does get in there.. Is this correct to think this?


Does anyone use this type of lube?? Any comments on the good or the bad?

Thanks
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Another great ride today. Clean and quiet. The other day I started hearing some squeaking. Looks like I need to replace my cleats. I can't say enough how easy, clean and effective the wax thing is.
Apparently not.
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They're brakes when I want to slow down and shifters when I want to shift gears. It's really not that hard a concept.
I dunno. I'm gonna have to cogitate on this for a while. Maybe work it out on paper. Calling those bad boys "brifters" isn't floating my boat.
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Humming along. I need to find a synthetic oil lube for my wheel bearings.
Humming along. I need to find a synthetic oil lube for my wheel bearings.
Why can't you put your wheel bearings in the crockpot full of hot wax every 200 miles as long as you have the chain in there?
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Spoken like someone who truly doesn’t know much of anything.
Almost as bad as calling a guitar an axe.
What about the Brits calling a windshield a windscreen or an eraser a rubber, etc. We speak better English in the US.


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What about the Brits calling a windshield a windscreen or an eraser a rubber, etc. We speak better English in the US.
The Brits would disagree.
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Humming along. I need to find a synthetic oil lube for my wheel bearings.
low viscosity liquids aren’t recommended in radial bearings .. unless it is fully sealed or the oil is circulated in/out of the bearing.

most radial bearings rely on grease. additives in bearing greases reduce friction and also provide a load bearing film between the races and rolling elements.

you can also use a waterproof motorcycle wheel bearing grease. after break-in, the bearings will roll smoothly.
for bearing greasing, look for something with Molybdenum Disulfide additive, like Aeroshell aircraft-grade grease.
Phil Wood waterproof grease.

It's the only way to fly, buster. As old blue eyes would say.
Campy recommends a fully synthetic oil for their ceramic bearings.
Campy recommends a fully synthetic oil for their ceramic bearings.
So they spin like crazy and you feel good about spending all that extra cash on components that use them. They're not sealed either.
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if they're not sealed bearings, why would they be spec'd with oil lubricant ... the bearings will dry out.
They're shielded not sealed. Copy/paste from the Campy site about CULT bearings:

To help keep dirt out and grease in place, most bearings employ seals, but both seals and grease create rolling resistance by affecting the bearing’s freedom to spin.

Because ceramic doesn’t rust, the stainless steel races and the technopolymer ball cages are almost immune to corrosion, in a design which is totally impervious to dirt ingress, CULT bearings have no need for heavy contact seals.

Their bold, not mine.
They're shielded not sealed. Copy/paste from the Campy site about CULT bearings:

To help keep dirt out and grease in place, most bearings employ seals, but both seals and grease create rolling resistance by affecting the bearing’s freedom to spin.

Because ceramic doesn’t rust, the stainless steel races and the technopolymer ball cages are almost immune to corrosion, in a design which is totally impervious to dirt ingress, CULT bearings have no need for heavy contact seals.

Their bold, not mine.
They're probably sealed (rubber seals) but are non-contact seals. There's a very small gap between the seal lip and the bearing race. It keeps most dirt out but not all. And really really really stupid to use oil with a non-contact seal. It'll work its way out in no time.
But hey... they spin really nice in your hands.
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They're shielded not sealed. Copy/paste from the Campy site about CULT bearings:

To help keep dirt out and grease in place, most bearings employ seals, but both seals and grease create rolling resistance by affecting the bearing’s freedom to spin.

Because ceramic doesn’t rust, the stainless steel races and the technopolymer ball cages are almost immune to corrosion, in a design which is totally impervious to dirt ingress, CULT bearings have no need for heavy contact seals.

Their bold, not mine.
Strange coincidence that they call them CULT. ;)
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Strange coincidence that they call them CULT. ;)
Hey now. You're close to touching me in a way that will make me make you feel uncomfortable.

🤐 🔨
Hey now. You're close to touching me in a way that will make me make you feel uncomfortable.

🤐 🔨
What do chains crave?
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