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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I changed my left shifter cable this week end and I'm not sure it is trimming right, I follow the instructions an align the white marks on the FD near the pinch bolt it shifts good up and down(50-34 chain rings), but it does seem to take a little more force to shift up to big ring, also it doesn't seem to trim down as much when in big ring, I have a ultegra 11-34 cassette, and it will start rubbing the FD cage(50t chain ring) in the 5th gear(19t) I then trim down one click and will stop until its gets to 9th gear(27t) and starts rubbing the FD cage again and will not stop till I drop to the small chainring, does this sound normal for these shifters, I was thinking before cable change that I could trim down in big ring and get to to 27t cog on back, and not have to drop to small chain till i went past the 27t cog. I know about cross chaining, and I dont usually go past 27t cog in big chain ring. My gears on cassette are(11-13-15-17-19-21-23-25-27-30-34) So does this sound like the trim is functioning normal?
 

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but it does seem to take a little more force to shift up to big ring
More force than before? It shouldn't.

it will start rubbing the FD cage(50t chain ring) in the 5th gear(19t) I then trim down one click and will stop until its gets to 9th gear(27t) and starts rubbing the FD cage again
I know about cross chaining, and I dont usually go past 27t cog in big chain ring.
So does this sound like the trim is functioning normal?
No not functioning normal. You should be able to shift every combination without cage rub.
 

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Definitely not adjusted right. Modern drivetrains are designed to work in all gear combos.

And the fact that is takes more force is a separate problem. Sounds like the cable is rubbing somewhere it shouldn't. Check where the cable comes out of the frame up to the FD.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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I have shown a couple of our guys how to adjust the new toggle link derailleurs numerous times and they still do it wrong. You have to follow the directions to the letter. How are you setting the high limit? ALL limit settings are done big/big. The high limit is done fully shifted to the right against the INSIDE cage of the front derailleur. Just make sure you're doing everything as Shimano instructs and it should work fine, including setting cable tension by cheating the low limit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have shown a couple of our guys how to adjust the new toggle link derailleurs numerous times and they still do it wrong. You have to follow the directions to the letter. How are you setting the high limit? ALL limit settings are done big/big. The high limit is done fully shifted to the right against the INSIDE cage of the front derailleur. Just make sure you're doing everything as Shimano instructs and it should work fine, including setting cable tension by cheating the low limit.
Well I went back and watch some video's, an adjusted on it some more, and it is shifting and triming the way it was before I replace the cable, not real sure what I did different this time(release cable and pulled it not as tight with my finger's before aligning marks also adjusted the stops some, I didn't mess with stops first time, shouldn't stops have stayed the same?, but its working now.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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Yes, the limit screw adjustments should stay the same. The trim on the big ring is pretty small, the trim on the small ring is much bigger, 3-4mm normally.
 

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I have shown a couple of our guys how to adjust the new toggle link derailleurs numerous times and they still do it wrong. You have to follow the directions to the letter. How are you setting the high limit? ALL limit settings are done big/big. The high limit is done fully shifted to the right against the INSIDE cage of the front derailleur. Just make sure you're doing everything as Shimano instructs and it should work fine, including setting cable tension by cheating the low limit.
"Cheating the low limit?" What's that mean?
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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It means you over tighten the low limit then attach the cable, then back off the limit screw and it creates extra 'tension' in the cable without using the tension adjustment screw. It's page 16 of the DM, and goes like this:
"Adjust the low adjustment bolt to align the fl at portion of the chain guide outer plate with the surface of the largest chainring, and then route the cable through as shown in the illustration. Confi rm that the adjustment barrel protrusion is in contact with the input link. If it is not in contact, loosen the cable adjustment barrel until contact is made and then route the cable."
Once you go through the steps in the DM and set up a derailleur you'll realize what you're doing.
 
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