Depending on your fitness and typical rides you may also want to look into a smaller chain ring. The Langster comes with a 48T ring and 16T freewheel. That is a pretty big gear if you have to do any climbing. I switched to a 42T ring, with a 20T freewheel and 16T cog. For me that 42/16 is so good for most of the climbing I have to do that I have yet to turn over the wheel. As mentioned, the bike already has a lock ring, you just need a sprocket to lock.OxfordUKRider said:I looking to get a Specialized Langster as my first fixie bike. What type/size of sprocket do I need to put it into true fixed mode instead of freewheel?
Thanks for contributing some actual information on the Langster OEM parts. In the future, however, I suggest double checking the date the thread was started, or the most recent post before replying. Since this conversation is better than six years old I imagine the situation is resolved.I own a 2007 Specialized Langster. . .
It's pretty simple. If the cog is the narrower 3/32, you can use the wide or the narrow chain. It will have a little sideways play, unnoticeable in practice, and any wear differences will also be very minor. The SS freewheels that go either way have 3/32 cog.My mechanical skills are limited (a friend does my geared builds for me), but I'm learning, and I'm curious about the differences between 1/8" and 3/32" chains (and related parts, such as chainrings and sprockets). In particular, I'm curious about the Shimano SF-MX30 freewheel being advertised for use with either 1/8" or 3/32" chains. This is, admittedly, probably naive thinking on my part, but I would have thought that using parts that were not all designed specifically for use with a particular (internal) chain width might result in premature wear (on the chain, or teeth, or both). This is probably food for a different thread, although it was prompted by that 3/32" comment from hubcap... and maybe hubcap is perfectly correct in practice... I guess I was half-hoping to prompt some response from experienced mechanics...