[aclinjury]

and do you toe in for both front and rear brakes? or just the front or the rear?

 

[duriel]

You'll probably need a new wrench for that!

 

[cxwrench]

Generally to reduce noise or vibration. I never toe brakes from the start, only if several other fixes don't work.

 

[Peter P.]

cxwrench is right; generally to eliminate squealing or chattering. If you don't have a problem, there's no need to toe-in your brakes.

 

[aclinjury]

thanks. I haven't experiece any nosie or vibration on any of my bikes.
i guess back in the old days, flexy calipers and/or frames, forks, necessitate toe in but not so much on morder bikes?

 

[J.R.]

If the brakes were "grabby" or chattered, some toe-in generally helped.

 

[nova_rider]

Having the pads perfectly parallel to the rim provide optimum braking performance, but that's not so easy to do. Chatter happens when the pads are toed out, so toe-in is just an easy insurance to prevent toe-out.

 

[tlg]

I've never toed in road pads. Never had squeal or chatter.
On MTB V brakes and their really long pads were susceptible to this and often needed toing.

 

[Lombard]

A Band-Aid fix for a greater issue. As @nova_rider implied, having the pads absolutely parallel gives you the best braking performance. You will lose braking power by toeing.

Awhile back, my hybrid with V-brakes had a pulsating issue. Interestingly, toeing in didn't help, but toeing out did. The thing about toeing is that eventually the pads will wear to where the surfaces are parallel again, so the problem will come back. I later replaced the wheels which had grooves well worn into them. That solved the pulsating problem.

 

[MDM]

Toe in is probably unnecessary on brakes that have stiff brake arms and pivots with no play (like dual pivot calipers), but is mostly necessary for cantis and V brakes because of flexy brake arms and sloppy pivots. When the pad hits the rim, it puts a torque on the brake arm which causes the brake arm to twist. Instead of hitting the rim flat, the center of pressure will be towards the rear of the pad. This causes the rear of the pad to wear faster than the front. It also helps eliminate pad squeal on these brakes as well. So, I would toe in pads on cantis and V brakes to get uniform pad wear and quiet brakes.

 

[Notvintage]

I find “towed in” brake pads work better when caught in the rain. They seem to scrape off the wet boundary layer quickly and slow the wheels. Anyway, this very cheap tool is brilliant at adjusting toe-in.

Brake Pad Tuner | Jagwire

The Brake Pad Tuner makes setting toe-in a breeze.

jagwire.com

 

[MDM]

I've got this touring bike that I use as a gravel bike that has V brakes. If I use the short Kool Stop Cross Pads instead of the long V type pads, will there be any downsides to this like losing some braking power/effectiveness?

 

[old_fuji]

I find “towed in” brake pads work better when caught in the rain. They seem to scrape off the wet boundary layer quickly and slow the wheels. Anyway, this very cheap tool is brilliant at adjusting toe-in.

Brake Pad Tuner | Jagwire

The Brake Pad Tuner makes setting toe-in a breeze.

jagwire.com

I always just used a small piece of cardboard or a couple of business cards.

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