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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the secret to tightening the bolts that hold the large chainring on a Raceface crank. I developed a creek in what I believed was the BB. After taking the cranks apart and servicing all bearings and reinstalling all parts to proper torque specs the creek was still there. I believe that the noise is coming from improperly tightened bolts in the large chainring. I am finding it nearly impossible to hold the backside nut with the slotted Park tool. There has to be something that I am doing wrong. Any advice?
Thanks

LDW
 

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Banned Sock Puppet
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What's the secret to tightening the bolts that hold the large chainring on a Raceface crank. I developed a creek in what I believed was the BB. After taking the cranks apart and servicing all bearings and reinstalling all parts to proper torque specs the creek was still there. I believe that the noise is coming from improperly tightened bolts in the large chainring. I am finding it nearly impossible to hold the backside nut with the slotted Park tool. There has to be something that I am doing wrong. Any advice?
Thanks

LDW
Did you grease the bolts?
 

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Los Barriles, BCS, Mexico
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The Park tool works pretty well. Make sure you're using the correct end for your chainring bolts.

I'd tell you to remove, clean, lube the reinstall the bolts. Don't try to tighten the bolts with the slotted tool, do that with the Allen or torx tool. The Park tool is used to hold the back side of the bolts while you tighten from the front.
 

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What's the secret to tightening the bolts that hold the large chainring on a Raceface crank. I developed a creek in what I believed was the BB. After taking the cranks apart and servicing all bearings and reinstalling all parts to proper torque specs the creek was still there. I believe that the noise is coming from improperly tightened bolts in the large chainring. I am finding it nearly impossible to hold the backside nut with the slotted Park tool. There has to be something that I am doing wrong.
Chain ring nuts have to be the most annoying design that keep hanging on on bikes. Some people have a hard time using the offset/campag style chain ring nut wrenches, myself included, and use a screwdriver/nut driver style instead. I have an old one that I think is from VAR but I don't know if you can get it anymore. There is a nice Tee handle version out, but again, I haven't been able to find one locally or thru distributors. You can probably make a screwdriver style driver yourself with a grinder and big flat blade screwdriver.

If I do use the wrench I usually put it in a vise, hold the crank with one hand and the allen wrench in the other. I have an older Park wrench that I bent specifically for doing this, but I've found it doesn't always work as the axle can sometimes get it the way.

Cyclus makes a couple of really nice chainring tools but every time I've checked with United Bike they are out of stock.
 

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a real member's member
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normally it's one bolt that gives me a problem. remove the bolt and nut from the crank and determine if they'll tighten on their own. If not, replace them. If the nut slot is ruined, replace the nut. If you don't see a problem, put the nut back in with no grease around it, only using a tiny bit of grease on the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the help all. These things are a PITA and a poor way of getting the job done in my opinion. Here is what I am going to try. I have purchased 4 new nuts and bolts. I am going to de grease the face of the nut and it's interface surface on the chainring,, apply a small amount of blue Loctite to that surface and snug things up and leave it set overnight. the next day remove the bolt and apply a small amount of grease to the threads and tighten to specs with a torque wrench and my Park tool and hopefully ride happily ever after.
LDW
 
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