Looking to build a set of event wheels - road races, endurance events, club race rides. Looking at Nio 30, White hubs, and DT Aerolite spokes. I weigh about 185 and am moderate on wheels. Question: Can I go 24 rear, 20 front, or will this be too fragile/flexy? Would a double butted spoke on the drive side make a difference? Thoughts?
Wheel Build question
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Joined
·
821 Posts
The only reason to have a low spoke count wheel is for looks. Your standard 28 radial front and 28 two cross rear will be plenty light enough and incredibly strong. If you want a low spoke count wheel buy a prerbuilt wheel from one of the many manufacturers that offer such wheels. Low spoke counts also require higher spoke tension that makes building the wheel a bit more tricky though almost all the super fancy low spoke count prebuilts are built by machines.
As for butted spokes, they save weight, they don't make the wheel any stronger. Most of the stress on the spoke is at the ends, where the butts are, and not the middle where the spoke is skinny. Super butted spokes are actually more flexible than straight gauge spokes as the thin middle section of the spoke is more easily deflected.
As for butted spokes, they save weight, they don't make the wheel any stronger. Most of the stress on the spoke is at the ends, where the butts are, and not the middle where the spoke is skinny. Super butted spokes are actually more flexible than straight gauge spokes as the thin middle section of the spoke is more easily deflected.
Joined
·
232 Posts
I would go even further and recommend against radial lacing UNLESS your hub of choice specifically says its suitable for it. I've seen many a hub break at the flange from radial lacing as it puts enormous stress on the hub flanges. Go two cross, the weight savings in grams by going with radial lacing is next to nothing. Besides, a two cross wheel will give more vertical compliance to the wheel.
I'm 215 and have been riding a set of wheels I built in 2002 (Ultegra hubs, 32 spoke Mavic Open Pro, DB14 2.0/1.7/2.0 butted Wheelsmith spokes, alloy nipples, 3x lacing) for six years and their still rolling strong.
PS-Here is the weight of my wheels including Velox rim tape
F=765g
R=969g
Throw in the cheap bolt-on skewers I use and the total weight is 1800g even...not light by any standards but Clydesdale durable and they would retail for about $300
I'm 215 and have been riding a set of wheels I built in 2002 (Ultegra hubs, 32 spoke Mavic Open Pro, DB14 2.0/1.7/2.0 butted Wheelsmith spokes, alloy nipples, 3x lacing) for six years and their still rolling strong.
PS-Here is the weight of my wheels including Velox rim tape
F=765g
R=969g
Throw in the cheap bolt-on skewers I use and the total weight is 1800g even...not light by any standards but Clydesdale durable and they would retail for about $300
Joined
·
2,303 Posts
1. Post this in wheels & tires. You'll get some feedback from some folks who build wheels for a living - I think that they know a thing or two.
2. I would guess 24/28 spokes.
3. Aerolites are double butted. I assume you mean something like a 2.0/1.8 round DB spoke. With this build (slightly low-count build, slightly heavy rider), I'd definitely consider them for the DS.
4. Sapim CX-Rays are comparable to Aerolites, and (most places I know of) ~$1/spoke cheaper.
2. I would guess 24/28 spokes.
3. Aerolites are double butted. I assume you mean something like a 2.0/1.8 round DB spoke. With this build (slightly low-count build, slightly heavy rider), I'd definitely consider them for the DS.
4. Sapim CX-Rays are comparable to Aerolites, and (most places I know of) ~$1/spoke cheaper.
Joined
·
49,249 Posts
hmmmm
DT Hugi 240 Hubs 28 or 32 hole 3X(rear) 2X(front) lacing to DT RR 1.1 rims,alloy nipples
Screw Radial lacing
rear weight
28/788 grams
32/850 grams
front weight
28/628 grams
32/645 gram
totalweight
28/1416 grams
32 /1495 grams
under$700
super light, stiff and comfortable. at 185 I'd say go 32 spoke. Under 3oz difference
lighter and WAAAAAYcheaper than most FANCY wheels
DT Hugi 240 Hubs 28 or 32 hole 3X(rear) 2X(front) lacing to DT RR 1.1 rims,alloy nipples
Screw Radial lacing
rear weight
28/788 grams
32/850 grams
front weight
28/628 grams
32/645 gram
totalweight
28/1416 grams
32 /1495 grams
under$700
super light, stiff and comfortable. at 185 I'd say go 32 spoke. Under 3oz difference
lighter and WAAAAAYcheaper than most FANCY wheels
Joined
·
2,480 Posts
Well unlike everyone else here, I say go 20/24 radial front, 2cross rear.
I weigh 180, have a set of nio30/cxray in that exact configuration that I use as event wheels. They're great and I wouldn't change a thing.
I weigh 180, have a set of nio30/cxray in that exact configuration that I use as event wheels. They're great and I wouldn't change a thing.
Joined
·
44 Posts
I'm w/ pigpen on the config but . . .
If you are worried about weight . . . go tubular . . . save 80+ grams in rims and 150+ grams in tires/tubes . . . that is much more significant than dropping 20 grams by reducing your spoke count by 4 spokes. Conversion to tubular drops a half pound of perimeter rotating mass . . . dropping from 32 to 24 spokes only saves 40 grams . . .
28/32 3x brass on drive side rear. I would use 3x nds rear as well however, better bracing angle, tension is closer to the ds. I would also go with an off center spoke bed in the rear if you can get it. Something like an Velocity Aerohead OC if you are going to stick with clinchers . . . this is really important if you are trying to build with ultra low spoke counts. Not sure what is out there for tubulars if anything.
I used to build my wheels with a combination of aerolites up front and round dbl butted spokes in the rear . . . then I tried Sapim CX-Rays . . . I use them and the Sapim Polyax nipples exclusively for all wheels mtn or road. More stable, better tension control, less windup, yadda yadda yadda.
Do your best to keep a consistent hub configuration for your training and your event wheels. Not all cassette carriers have the same dimensions between manufacturers. When you switch from your training wheels to your event wheels, you may need some derailleur adjustment if the hubs are not the same on each of your wheelsets. I prefer to use White Industries H2 hubs for rear road wheels, light, durable, consistent, build a strong wheel, compatible with either Shimano, SRAM or Campy, good bearings, Ti Cassette Carrier body.
Have a good ride . . .
If you are worried about weight . . . go tubular . . . save 80+ grams in rims and 150+ grams in tires/tubes . . . that is much more significant than dropping 20 grams by reducing your spoke count by 4 spokes. Conversion to tubular drops a half pound of perimeter rotating mass . . . dropping from 32 to 24 spokes only saves 40 grams . . .
28/32 3x brass on drive side rear. I would use 3x nds rear as well however, better bracing angle, tension is closer to the ds. I would also go with an off center spoke bed in the rear if you can get it. Something like an Velocity Aerohead OC if you are going to stick with clinchers . . . this is really important if you are trying to build with ultra low spoke counts. Not sure what is out there for tubulars if anything.
I used to build my wheels with a combination of aerolites up front and round dbl butted spokes in the rear . . . then I tried Sapim CX-Rays . . . I use them and the Sapim Polyax nipples exclusively for all wheels mtn or road. More stable, better tension control, less windup, yadda yadda yadda.
Do your best to keep a consistent hub configuration for your training and your event wheels. Not all cassette carriers have the same dimensions between manufacturers. When you switch from your training wheels to your event wheels, you may need some derailleur adjustment if the hubs are not the same on each of your wheelsets. I prefer to use White Industries H2 hubs for rear road wheels, light, durable, consistent, build a strong wheel, compatible with either Shimano, SRAM or Campy, good bearings, Ti Cassette Carrier body.
Have a good ride . . .
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
