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i like whiskey
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am on my second week of riding my new MXL with horzontal dropouts. The only issue I'm having is that the back wheel occassionaly slips in the dropouts. This only happens when I'm starting again from a full stop. It has never moved while I'm riding or standing to climb.

I've cranked the QR's down as much as I can but I'm still not 100% confident in the the QR's holding the back wheel yet. Is there something I can do to remedy this problem? Maybe a QR with knurled clamp area so it bites the dropout better? I'm just thinking out loud here. The dropouts are chrome if that makes any difference.

Horizontal dropouts have been around a long time so surely there's a trick I'm missing here.
 

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Big is relative
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I had the same problem with my MXL when I used a set of spinergy wheels with spinergy QR's. The seating surface of the quick release was smooth and didn't grip enough even with gorilla torque applied. I had to use a set of campy QR's (shimaNo should be ok) that had a knurled face. Rough up the QR, it's not the frames fault.
 

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Try a chain tensioner - something like the Surly Tugnutt. This will absolutely solve the problem. I went through several sets of skewers before spending 20 bucks on a tugnutt, and none of them eliminated the problem........

Zach
 

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innergel said:
I am on my second week of riding my new MXL with horzontal dropouts. The only issue I'm having is that the back wheel occassionaly slips in the dropouts. This only happens when I'm starting again from a full stop. It has never moved while I'm riding or standing to climb.

I've cranked the QR's down as much as I can but I'm still not 100% confident in the the QR's holding the back wheel yet. Is there something I can do to remedy this problem? Maybe a QR with knurled clamp area so it bites the dropout better? I'm just thinking out loud here. The dropouts are chrome if that makes any difference.

Horizontal dropouts have been around a long time so surely there's a trick I'm missing here.
Chances are, all you need are good old fashioned internal-cam quick releases- traditional campy or shimano should do the trick- they've worked for me in similar circumstances.

Modern, external cam QRs have a much weaker grip, despite their beef looks.
 

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i like whiskey
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Qstick333 said:
Try a chain tensioner - something like the Surly Tugnutt. This will absolutely solve the problem. I went through several sets of skewers before spending 20 bucks on a tugnutt, and none of them eliminated the problem........

Zach
These are forward facing dropouts with the little adjustment screw things. Where do you brace the chain tensioner? Against the curved back portion of the dropout, I'm assuming. And the screws would have to be removed. Did you have to make a nice flat spot to keep it from slipping?
 

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I had the same problem with my Colango Master (circa 1986), which has horizontal rear dropouts. Upgraded to 9-speed Shimano Ultegra hub wheels and the rear hub slipped forward on the freewheel side. I tried a 3/8" external tooth lockwasher on the FW side axle, which seemed to work, but would have to be replaced each time I took the wheel off. The lockwasher flattens out after one tightening, and then won't prevent the slipping when you put the wheel back on. Too much trouble and it makes it hard to get the wheel in the dropouts.
I found a better solution at loosescrews.com website (formerly The Third Hand). They have Shimano axle locknuts that are the same 4.5mm thickness as on my Shimano hubs. It's their part number SH-2200501, which is made form hardened steel with a fairly sharp knurled face. They have a 17mm hex-head, but fit perfectly with no interference and NO MORE SLIPPING. I tighten the QR so that it starts to engage at the 12:00 (half-way) position, and push it as far as it will go inbetween the frame stays. These locknuts will probably work on other Shimano hub models and hub brands (10mm x 1mm axle), but you may need to add a spacer. Loose Screws has these as well in many different sizes. You should remove the axle from the rear hub to replace the locknut, which requires cone wrenches and an adjustable wrench (to fit the 17mm locknut), grease and perhaps new ball-bearings (use Grade #25 only NOT #100). I found my Ultegra hubs came from the factory overtightened. You need to set the bearings for a very slight play, which is taken back up when you tighten the wheel in the dropouts on the bike. You can check for play after tightening the QR by trying to move the wheel between the brake pads. If you barely close the QR, there should be play. With the QR 1/2 to 3/4 closed, the play should be gone. It takes some fiddling (i.e. on then off bike) to get it right, but too tight is not good.

Sheldon Brown's website has a wealth of info on this stuff and how to use your QR with an old axle cone or spacer to put pressure on the axle when you make the final hub cone adjustment and lockdown off the bike.
 
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