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Discussion Starter #1
Reading some of your messages on this forum, I have sometimes read about someones wheel getting un-trued... I often though , "Man , I nerver had that happen" ... Unitl now....

Got home last night and tried to roll my bike.... But it kept grabbing... Where? ... The rear wheel is bent , wobbeling and hitting the break pads...

SO now I'm in the wheel truing boat...

Here are my desires :

I want to buy a truing stand... one time... I'm looking at the Park TS2 ....any opinions...

I understand that truing a wheel is time consuming and something that has to be LEARNED by doing.... Is there A book that is the so called bible of truing....
Even if its a wheel building book I would like to get the One or two books that will really help...

I know about some of the tools that I will require , are there any specific recommendation on tools...Which ones work well?

Thank you for any and all help!
 

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Strained coccyx etc etc
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21,050 Posts
i have had the ts7 (not the ts2) for several years and needed nothing more. the ts2 is reputedly for all wheel services, including building wheels from scratch.

you'll need a spoke wrench ($6) and some patience.

zinn and the art of road bike maintenance is a good book for this and everything else.

good luck.
 

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hi, I'm Larry
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I true mine on the bike

and use the brake pads as reference. As the wheel gets more true I just turn the brake pads in until the wheel is perfect.

Make certain you get the right size spoke wrench. DTs and most european spokes use the black handled Park spoke wrench. I like the park wrench that looks like a oblong loop.

Most frequently a nipple backing off causes the problem you discribe. Ping the spokes and listen to tone. If you hear a thud near the spot that the wheel is out of true, try tightening just that one up first to bring the whole thing back in true. If you mess with other spokes instead of just the loose spoke you can get the wheel true but the spoke tension will be uneven and cause more problems down the road.

pr0230 said:
Reading some of your messages on this forum, I have sometimes read about someones wheel getting un-trued... I often though , "Man , I nerver had that happen" ... Unitl now....

Got home last night and tried to roll my bike.... But it kept grabbing... Where? ... The rear wheel is bent , wobbeling and hitting the break pads...

SO now I'm in the wheel truing boat...

Here are my desires :

I want to buy a truing stand... one time... I'm looking at the Park TS2 ....any opinions...

I understand that truing a wheel is time consuming and something that has to be LEARNED by doing.... Is there A book that is the so called bible of truing....
Even if its a wheel building book I would like to get the One or two books that will really help...

I know about some of the tools that I will require , are there any specific recommendation on tools...Which ones work well?

Thank you for any and all help!
 

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Registered
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the advice... But I already went shopping ... I bought the TS2 truing stand... and all the Park Colors for nipple size... Yes I got the black one.... Thanks for the ping tip...

I also bought a book "the bicycle wheel" 3rd edition... I think its a little out of date but has some info ... I read it a bit and would like more info.... The PARK web site also has some good info...

I'm surprised there is not a bible with plenty of illustrations...


bimini said:
and use the brake pads as reference. As the wheel gets more true I just turn the brake pads in until the wheel is perfect.

Make certain you get the right size spoke wrench. DTs and most european spokes use the black handled Park spoke wrench. I like the park wrench that looks like a oblong loop.

Most frequently a nipple backing off causes the problem you discribe. Ping the spokes and listen to tone. If you hear a thud near the spot that the wheel is out of true, try tightening just that one up first to bring the whole thing back in true. If you mess with other spokes instead of just the loose spoke you can get the wheel true but the spoke tension will be uneven and cause more problems down the road.
 

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I don't exist
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2,029 Posts
I second the on the bike method.

But since you have already bought the stand, start building your own!
I built my first set on my bike and used the brake pads as reference too.

I can also suggest tapeing a toothpick or wood kabob skewers to the stays(or forks) for on the bike trueing.

On the bike trueing has the advantage(s) in that:
1) You don't need to remove the wheel from the bike.
2) You don't need to readjust QRs when reinstalling a wheel. (esp the rear w/the chain & cassette)
3) Are able to do side of the road repairs (field expediency).
 

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Old, slow, and fat.
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3,897 Posts
pr0230 said:
Reading some of your messages on this forum, I have sometimes read about someones wheel getting un-trued... I often though , "Man , I nerver had that happen" ... Unitl now....

Got home last night and tried to roll my bike.... But it kept grabbing... Where? ... The rear wheel is bent , wobbeling and hitting the break pads...

SO now I'm in the wheel truing boat...

Here are my desires :

I want to buy a truing stand... one time... I'm looking at the Park TS2 ....any opinions...

I understand that truing a wheel is time consuming and something that has to be LEARNED by doing.... Is there A book that is the so called bible of truing....
Even if its a wheel building book I would like to get the One or two books that will really help...

I know about some of the tools that I will require , are there any specific recommendation on tools...Which ones work well?

Thank you for any and all help!
Since you already have the TS-2, I won't tell you that I've been building perfectly good wheels on a free POS stand that I inherited from someone ~15 years ago.

As long as you have a dishing tool, spoke wrenches, and possibly a tensionometer, you can build fantastic wheels. All it takes is practice.

Start with 1/4 turns till you figure out what those 1/4 turns are doing to your wheel. I used to go whole hog and start with BIG adjustments till I figured out I was having to back off a bunch when I got things too tight. Now I split the middle and usually get it pretty close pretty quickly.

The other recommendation is to have someone that knows what they're doing standing over your shoulder saying "don't do that!" before you REALLY screw something up.

HTH,

M
 
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