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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
What's the opinion on wheelset choice? In broad strokes, I'd say I'm a pretty good climber, mediocre sprinter, and strongest as a rolleur - if you need somebody to bridge a gap 1/2-way through, send me.
So would I look for a lighter, less aero wheel to help me on the climbs, or something heavier and more aero to give greater advantage to area of strength?
For specifics, I'm 165 lb, and have had very good luck with 2 pairs of Campy wheels for the past 12 years (late '90s Ventos and current Zondas). So I'm considering Shamal or Eurus or maybe something like the Neuvation carbon 50s - all in the $700-800 USD range depending on where you buy).
Thanks,
-Dirk
 

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what do you hope to gain? saving 100-50g over zondas going to eurus isn't exactly money well spent IMHO.

as a comparison - i just built 1384g clinchers 28/32h for about the same price as zondas online.

IME aero/lw effect is marginal - u might see it on a timesheet - u wont notice rolling on your computer.
 

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Well your 165 so you need something pretty stiff...
But your not so heavy that you need something over built. You won't find anything that is new with a lot of depth. I would get some Kinlin xr200 rims. These are 385 grams and in a 20/24 spoke count they would be strong. Sapim spokes would be a great high tension match that would be aero. If you used some nice Tune hubs Mig 70 and Mag 180 you would have a wheelset that is very stiff. This is because of those nice wide flanges on the Tune hubs. A wheelset like that would be maybe 150$ over your limit. But it would weigh about 1240 grams. That is mega light for a clincher. The American Classic mag weighs 15 grams more than that and costs a couple hundred dollars more.
 

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bigmo said:
So would I look for a lighter, less aero wheel to help me on the climbs, or something heavier and more aero to give greater advantage to area of strength?
Don't expect your wheels to make a big difference either way... but they will make a small difference. Not many people know that a 27-30mm aluminum rim with minimal aero steel spokes will be closer in aero performance to a Zipp 808 than a Ksyrium SL... or something like an OP rim with round spokes.

So... you could build a set of wheels with CX-Rays or Aerolites, and the Kinlin 27 or 30mm rims and have a wheelset that is ~1380-1460g that is in your price range or less. The White Industries hubs are nice and less expensive and heavier, and I've been using Alchemy front and DT240 rear for ~60g weight savings.
 

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Zen Cyclery said:
I would get some Kinlin xr200 rims. These are 385 grams and in a 20/24 spoke count they would be strong.
Just wonder who you have on that build and for how long...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the advice. I realize not much gain comparing Eurus and Zonda. I've got a trickle down system and would use the Zonda's on another bike. But I'm leaning toward the lighter weight alternatives for that consideration of wanting a noticeable upgrade to mine.
That said, back to the original question whether Shamal or Austin's light weight suggestion or Neutron or other lightweight wheel would be good (addressing area of relative weakness) or whether I'd be better off playing to strength of speed on flats.
Thanks again,
-Dirk
 

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bigmo said:
Thanks for the advice. I realize not much gain comparing Eurus and Zonda. I've got a trickle down system and would use the Zonda's on another bike. But I'm leaning toward the lighter weight alternatives for that consideration of wanting a noticeable upgrade to mine.
That said, back to the original question whether Shamal or Austin's light weight suggestion or Neutron or other lightweight wheel would be good (addressing area of relative weakness) or whether I'd be better off playing to strength of speed on flats.
Thanks again,
-Dirk
If you lace the Kinlins with Tune hubs they will not just be very stiff but also very durable. This is for a few reasons.
1. People often think that because the Xr200 is light that it is not strong. What they do not realize is that it is made of an allow called niobium that makes it stronger and lighter than allows used in wheels like Fulcrums and Mavics.
2. The rims hubs and spokes can be built to very high tension which makes the wheel stiffer and more durable.
3. The hubs have very wide flanges which increases the bracing angle on them dramatically making the wheel even stiffer and stronger.

I do agree with rruff that WI hubs are a great option. On top of that if you are really worried about damaging the rims and you want something stronger then you could always get one of their deep rims.
 

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Zen Cyclery said:
Someone who weighs 165 for 2 years!:idea:
Built a friend of mine a set while I was working at a shop with Xr200s, Sapims, and 240s.
They've only been available for a year... are you sure it wasn't another model? The XR200 is a light and shallow rim, and isn't particularly sturdy. About how many miles is that and what sort of rider is he?
 

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Zen Cyclery said:
1. People often think that because the Xr200 is light that it is not strong. What they do not realize is that it is made of an allow called niobium that makes it stronger and lighter than allows used in wheels like Fulcrums and Mavics.
It is a good alloy for rims, but it is neither stiffer nor lighter than any other aluminum. Some of the Kinlin 19mm rims had issues with cracking at the spoke holes... the 27mm and 30mm rims seem very durable, though. The XR200 (22mm) is too new to really pass judgement yet IMO, but is likely better than the 19mm rim.

2. The rims hubs and spokes can be built to very high tension which makes the wheel stiffer and more durable.
What do you consider high? The rim is the weak link, and I think going over ~100kg with the 22mm rim would be a bad idea.

BTW, high tension doesn't make the wheel stiffer unless the spokes are going slack.

3. The hubs have very wide flanges which increases the bracing angle on them dramatically making the wheel even stiffer and stronger.
That is a good feature of Tune hubs... they move the DS flange over to the right as far as possible so they can also have a good NDS bracing angle without the tension getting excessively low. I wouldn't say it is a dramatic improvement, but it is a more optimal design.
 

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to answer the OP's question, i back entirely what rruff said. You do not have to choose. Quality hubs, spokes on say nio27s... aero, light, and easily rebuildable.

depending on how much you would like to spend, easily lighter and more aero than eurus.

and cheaper
 
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