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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did the following changes to get lower gear ratio, but i seem to notice rattles from the chains on riding over rough road. Like the chain is knocking something or rattle loose or something. On the same road, with previous set-up, it doesn't happen.

When i cut the new chain, i bypass the derailleur, put the largest/most gear-teeth on the cassette and largest/most gear-teeth on the crank, i pull the chain, and just left 1 link after i cut, plus the KMC-missinglink, total 2 links extras. Is it the chain lose or something else? Or is it normal the chain is noisy?


I did the following changes: -

From
Crankset
Shimano 105 Double 52/39 (Shimano 105)
to
Shimano FC-R700 Compact 50/34


From
10-speed Cassette -
Shimano 105 - 12/27
to
Shimano Ultegra CS-6600 - 12/25


From
10-speed Chain
Shimano 105 chain
to
Forte' chain by KMC

Below remain the same: -
Rear derailleur - Short Cage (Shimano Ultegra)
Front derailleur - Shimano 105 (i lower the FD to accomodate the lower gear on the compact)
 

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How many chain links are you using now?

I think maybe your chain is still too long and the slack is banging on the rear derailleur. I find that method you used to determe chain length doesn't work

In general with a 53/39 front and 11-26 cassette, you would use 54 links of chain.
With the compact you would use 53 or 52 links.
 

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Chain length maybe...could be too long. Or it could be the chain, I bought one of those Forte KMC chains and it is noisy.

Put you bike in the big ring in front and smallest cog in the rear (most outward). See if the pulleys line up vertically with each other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks to those that suggest, appreciate it.
below are my response.

I bought ZINN book on road bike and use the 3rd method, to give 1 complete link or 2 links total extra.

I've counted and i have total of 104 links (this include the missing link). I also have Dura Ace chains with the same length and it bahave the same. I still have long chain?

I'm attaching pictures of using ZINN method 2, where to put the chain thru' the derailleur, largest front on the crank and lowest/smallest gear on the cassette.
I place a square ruler next to it for reference straight line. So i have it right?
 

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when i said 52 or 53 links, I was counting only the main link. You mentioned 104, I guess you are counting the smaller piece that connects the main links.

taking half of 104, I guess you are running on 52 links. That should give you the proper length for your compact crank setup.

Your rear derailleur looks to be in a proper position in the picture. Your noise problem must be from something else.

Do you get the chain knock in certain gears? Or the noise is present in every gear?

Bounce the bike a little to simulate riding on rough rode and look for what the chain is coming in contact with.

Also, is your new chain a 10spd chain?
 

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It looks right...Skip to the back of the Zinn book (page 246) chain hits chain stay on rough roads (does it?) use large chain ring.

There are Internet chain guide calculator for bicycles (enter that in your search engine). You put in the number of teeth in you large chain ring, smallest cog, and chain stay length. It gives you chain length.

I have a 16.5 chainstay, 53 big ring, 25 small cog and my chain length is 54" (including connecting link).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I downloaded the calculator and try it out. Input everything and it seem right. I came up to 52 links, which is what i have now.

So, i did what kdub said to bounce the bike and try to simulate rough road, etc....
only to find out that i have a loose cassette. Well, it's not loose, the lock ring had been properly tight.
I open it up and i did remenber when i open up the old cassette, there this special aluminum spacer (with spine). Somehow i did not recall where this goes.
So, i just follow Shimano instructions to put in shimano steel spacer to the hub, follows by all the cogs, then spacer lock ring, follow by lock ring.
Apparently with this set-up, the cog are loose (able to tilt a little left & right).

I open it back again, this time i put that special aluminum spacer (with the spine) in the hub first, follow by the cog, then spacer lock ring, follow by lock ring. It seem tight now.
But what would i do with the shimano steel spacer that comes with my cassette?

Should i install the shimano steel spacer first, follow by that special aluminum spacer (with the spine) (or vice versa - spacial aluminum spacer follow by shimano steel spacer), then the cog, then the spacer lock ring and last the lock ring?

I can't recall the first time when i open the original cassette if it have 2 spacers before the cogs.
 

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I see your problem now. Yes you need that "special 0.5mm spacer" for 10spd Shimano cassette installed onto a non 10spd proprietary Shimano hub. The only time you don't need that 0.5mm spacer is if your hub is a only for 10spd Shimano cassettes. Hubs that are labelled as 8/9/10 spd hubs will not require that spacer to fit everything tightly.

Put that "special 0.5mm spacer" into the FIRST, then everything else as it should go.

So again, insert the 0.5mm spacer into the hub first, then your 25-23 and 21-19 cogs, then 17 cog, then sprocket spacer, then 16 cog, then sprocket spacer, then 15 cog, then the rest of the cogs 14, 13, 12 and finally the lock ring to tighten everything down. I am not sure what the "lock ring spacer" you were talking about. There is only ONE lock ring.
 

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You need both spacers. You should have one for the Mavic wheel and then you need the Shimano ten speed spacer mentioned above. Mavic wheels come spaced for their cassette which is wider so they send a spacer to take up the space for Shimano 8-9-10 speed cassettes. Shimano 10 speed cassettes are narrower then 8-9 speed cassettes so you need the Shimano spacer also. I hope this make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
kdub,
thanks for that superb photos and detail explaination!!!

Yes, i do have that additional spacer with spine, made of aluminum. I believe it could be from Mavic.

So, should i put mavic spacer first follow by shimano spacer into the hub or vice-versa?
My logical thinking would put the shimano steel spacer first, follow by the mavic spacer then all my gears.... cause when tighten, the aluminum mavic spacer will have more area to compress (between the cog and shimano spacer), rather then the hub spine would ruin the soft aluminum spacer when put it first (will show mark if tighten). Maybe i'm wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
kdub said:
ACtually I think you would put the Mavic spacer first, then the Shimano spacer. Because the shimano spacer is suppose to sit in the recessed back of the cassette. If you look at the back of your 25-23 cogs, there is a circular recessed space where the 0.5mm spacer is suppose to fill in so the back of the cogs is flush.
thanks kdub and the rest that assist.
It works pretty good now, no rattling. I put the mavic washer first, follow by shimano washer, then all the cogs.
 
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