I just got a 2002 LeMond Buenos Aires that's new, never ridden. Frame is Reynolds 853 steel. I plan on riding it in summer only, on days it's not supposed to rain. Is it worthwhile to go through the trouble of rustproofing the frame with Weigle's Framesaver? I live in Va Beach, where the humidity's high in the summer, and I could get caught in a thunderstorm or 2, but I plan to keep it dry. If rustproofing is a good idea, does anyone know of any websites that describe how to do it? Thanks.
worthwhile to rustproof steel frame bike?
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Joined
·
5,721 Posts
it can be worthwhile.
yes, there are plenty of sites online demonstrating the process. a simple search will result in all the info you want.
be aware that you're not really rustPROOFing the steel. The only way to do that is to use a frame material that does not oxidize. But Frame Saver is a step in the right direction, IMO.
yes, there are plenty of sites online demonstrating the process. a simple search will result in all the info you want.
be aware that you're not really rustPROOFing the steel. The only way to do that is to use a frame material that does not oxidize. But Frame Saver is a step in the right direction, IMO.
Save some $$.
Frame Saver does work to retard the rusting process, but it's expensive and messy. IMO, other metal protectants (like automotive/marine engine fogging oil from your local auto parts store) will do just as good a job as Frame Saver, and any excess is easier to remove.
On the other hand, using nothing at all on the inside of the tubes is not a bad alternative either. Really, when's the last time you (or anyone else) has seen a steel frame that's rusted from the inside out? If you keep the paint film intact, have a drain hole in the bottom bracket shell and close the seat post clamping slot off to spray water with some tape or a dab of grease, you're good to go for decades.
Frame Saver does work to retard the rusting process, but it's expensive and messy. IMO, other metal protectants (like automotive/marine engine fogging oil from your local auto parts store) will do just as good a job as Frame Saver, and any excess is easier to remove.
On the other hand, using nothing at all on the inside of the tubes is not a bad alternative either. Really, when's the last time you (or anyone else) has seen a steel frame that's rusted from the inside out? If you keep the paint film intact, have a drain hole in the bottom bracket shell and close the seat post clamping slot off to spray water with some tape or a dab of grease, you're good to go for decades.
Joined
·
3,729 Posts
Really, there's no need to rustproof, especially for the use you describe. I have a well used steel frame that is 38 years old including use on salted roads in the winter and it's just fine, never rustproofed. The only steel bikes I've ever seen with rust problems were left outside for a few years.
Joined
·
3,477 Posts
Sounds like there are some lower cosrt alternatives, which I never knew about, so thanks for the info.
I would definitely treat it with something, especially being in a coastal town. The constant salt air will accelerate oxidation. Unless you'd rather just use and if it rusts, it rusts. And it doesn't matter if you don't ride it wet or wipe it down afterwards (although that can help), but moisture can get inside the tubes and rust them from the inside without you even knowing. Personally, I'd protect my investment.
I would definitely treat it with something, especially being in a coastal town. The constant salt air will accelerate oxidation. Unless you'd rather just use and if it rusts, it rusts. And it doesn't matter if you don't ride it wet or wipe it down afterwards (although that can help), but moisture can get inside the tubes and rust them from the inside without you even knowing. Personally, I'd protect my investment.
For what it's worth, the coastal town thing isn't really going to affect the inside of the tubes. Salt-spray leaves a fine film of salt crystals on the outside of the frame, so frequent wipings with Pledge or something similar will do a lot more for you than any inside treatment could. An occasional washing with soapy water followed by a clear water rinse would be helpful if you ride on Fort Story (great training loop) or the VA Beach boardwalk (not so great a training venue) a lot.krisdrum said:
Yes; rustproofing the inside of the tubes is VERY worthwhile, and it's NOT expensive.
We ALL plan to keep our bikes dry, but in the real world, it never works out that way. Even just storing the bike in a humid environment can cause rust; better to be prepared.
Since you're interested in making the frame last, I would also recommend you wipe down the outside of the frame after any ride where you sweat on it. My experience over 30+years has been-sweat left on the outside of the tubes will more likely cause rust than anything occurring inside the tubes. So, after sweaty rides I wring out a water soaked rag that's roughly 5" square and wipe down the frame tubes, paying attention to the nooks and crannies like the cable guides. I only do this after sweaty rides and it takes less than five minutes.
We ALL plan to keep our bikes dry, but in the real world, it never works out that way. Even just storing the bike in a humid environment can cause rust; better to be prepared.
Since you're interested in making the frame last, I would also recommend you wipe down the outside of the frame after any ride where you sweat on it. My experience over 30+years has been-sweat left on the outside of the tubes will more likely cause rust than anything occurring inside the tubes. So, after sweaty rides I wring out a water soaked rag that's roughly 5" square and wipe down the frame tubes, paying attention to the nooks and crannies like the cable guides. I only do this after sweaty rides and it takes less than five minutes.
Joined
·
6,331 Posts
$10-11 is too "expensive"?
To the OP, if you have the frame already stripped you are looking at a 1/2 hour job. Wipe off any Frame Saver that gets on the outside of the frame right away so it does not dry. WD-40 does a good job removing it. It's hard for me to tell if it has helped prevent rust or how much, but it seems like cheap insurance to me. I have used it on 3 steel frames
Frame Saver costs less than $11. Chains costs $30/40/50, cassettes sometimes $100+, tires $30+ each. I am not rich but relative to the other costs in cycling this is nothing.wim said:
To the OP, if you have the frame already stripped you are looking at a 1/2 hour job. Wipe off any Frame Saver that gets on the outside of the frame right away so it does not dry. WD-40 does a good job removing it. It's hard for me to tell if it has helped prevent rust or how much, but it seems like cheap insurance to me. I have used it on 3 steel frames
I didn't say it was "too expensive," I said it was "expensive." One quart of linseed oil will last you a cycling lifetime; a $3.99 spray can of automotive/marine engine fogging oil will do 10 frames or so. Pete Weigle is a great guy, but he's also a marketing genius. 'Nuff said.DaveG said:
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
Virginia Beach is a big place.
Unless you live on Atlantic Avenue, salt is not likely to be an issue.
Humidity, yes.
Get some boiled linseed oil and give it a try -- that was the standard for many years. I saw a big jug of it at Lowe's last weekend, in the paint section. It wasn't much $$$.
That Reynolds 853 is thin stuff -- wouldn't hurt to give it some protection.
And, hey, that's a nice frame!
Unless you live on Atlantic Avenue, salt is not likely to be an issue.
Humidity, yes.
Get some boiled linseed oil and give it a try -- that was the standard for many years. I saw a big jug of it at Lowe's last weekend, in the paint section. It wasn't much $$$.
That Reynolds 853 is thin stuff -- wouldn't hurt to give it some protection.
And, hey, that's a nice frame!
OK to spray with head tube intact?
I plan on doing the spraying (I have a can of Framesaver from rustproofing that was done by a shop on another bike) with the bottom bracket and the seat post removed but the headset and fork in place. Is that a problem? Out of curiosity, is it OK to spray down the seat tube with the bottom bracket installed? Thanks for the help.
I plan on doing the spraying (I have a can of Framesaver from rustproofing that was done by a shop on another bike) with the bottom bracket and the seat post removed but the headset and fork in place. Is that a problem? Out of curiosity, is it OK to spray down the seat tube with the bottom bracket installed? Thanks for the help.
Joined
·
817 Posts
Like it was said. If the frame's stripped down to just the frame it's a piece of cake, can of corn to apply Weigle's. Spray in the vent holes and turn the frame around sideways, front to back etc to get it to flow around inside. Do it in the garage or outside somewhere. A few drops will hit the floor, pavement, lawn. It wipes up no big deal. In a few minutes it's tacky and stops running. I used a can per frame and two applications per frame. I paid IMO alot of money for my steel bikes and while they may not ever rust out I felt I was doing the right thing. I waited until it was rebuild time, after 10K+ miles and the frames were all torn down. There was a little surface rust in the bottom bracket weld areas where O could see with a flashlight. It was fun rebuilding the bikes from scatch and I learned a lot.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
