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· C 1/5
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well after having been a Dura-Ace' user for years, I finally decided on a whim to switch to Record. I had never riden campy stuff, nor performed maintanence or setup so i knew it would be interesting. After selling everything on eBay, and deciding on compact vs standard record cranks etc, I had everything to rebuild my bike.

Observations:
- The record ultra narrow chain is a work of art. looks really good. am curious about durability. I can easily get about 5000 miles on my dura-ace chain and cassette, but i clean my stuff regularly and lube after every ride.

- the campy chain tool is also a great tool, but to pay retail between $90 - $110! man that is expensive. it will last forever, is machined precisely, but found it hard to swallow that one. i didn't even tell my wife how much that cost.

- set up of the whole groupo was as simple as dura-ace, and the ergo level cable feeding is smart. I actually found that to be even easier than DA and intuitive. For a racing mechanic, replacing cables would be a easy.

- shifting is flawless.

- went with the record ct crankset. i had ridden a compact on my "commuter" bike and liked the setup. with a 11x23 and 50x34, i am set up very well for the flats and the hills of northern va. plus its nice on my 38 year old knees.

- weight: bike now weighs 15.4 lbs ready to ride (cages, computer, pedals). lost two tenths of a pound, maybe a bit less, but i didn't really switch for weight saving.

- replacable parts vs replacable components is a great concept. i never had to replace any dura-ace stuff, but i knew if i crashed, i would be replacing the whole componenet vs a part of the componenet. i'm sure the campy parts are pricey, but thats ok.

- i also read that when campy introduces new parts, they won't introduce a new tool for it, all tools are compatible i heard. another plus.

What kind of miles are you guys/gals getting on a record ultra narrow chain and st/ti cassette?
 

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more observations..

The new ultra narrow chain hasn't been out long, so it's a bit early for chain life reports. There is no reason the new chain won't last as long or longer than a DA chain. The defintion of chain life can be rather vague. Those who use a park chain checker or similar tool will probably toss a chain far earlier than someone using a scale to measure elongation. Neither method is flawless. The park tool mixes chain pitch changes (elongation) with roller displacement, so you really don't have a clue about the type of wear that's occurring. Using a scale only gives an accurate measurement of the change in chain pitch, which is the most important measurement affecting cog life, but no info on the roller wear. It is possible to have very little change in pitch, but severely worn rollers. To get a complete picture of the chain's wear, calipers are also needed to measure roller displacement.

You really didn't need to buy that expensive chain tool, at least if you already a decent quality tool. The HD-L pin will install esily with an ordinary chain tool, as long as the chain is draped over the BB shell to eliminate any tension on the chain while the pin is installed. If you like to remove the chain for cleaning, get a wipperman connex link in the shimano 10 version.

About the only campy specific tool that I can think of is the lockring/BB tool. Next year, the square taper BBs and cranks will be replaced with the new external bearing design, so there will be a new BB tool.
 

· C 1/5
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613 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
C-40 said:
... If you like to remove the chain for cleaning, get a wipperman connex link in the shimano 10 version.
C-40, Is the wipperman connex link narrow enough? No shifting issues?

Thats good information. While I don't regularly break the chain to clean it, having a connex link would be handy though.

Thanks for the info.
 

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Gearing choice?

Chase15.5 said:
went with the record ct crankset. i had ridden a compact on my "commuter" bike and liked the setup. with a 11x23 and 50x34, i am set up very well for the flats and the hills of northern va. plus its nice on my 38 year old knees.
This is virtually identical gearing to a 53/29 with a 12-26, but you'll have faster drive train wear due to the smaller cogs. Why did you go this route?
 

· Squirrel Hunter
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Compact Marketing

Kerry Irons said:
This is virtually identical gearing to a 53/29 (s/b 53/39) with a 12-26, but you'll have faster drive train wear due to the smaller cogs. Why did you go this route?
The marketing machine is working strong. I think he did mention why he chose the compact setup that is the same as a traditional double...

Chase15.5 said:
...decided on a whim...
 

· I heart team Zissou!
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2,954 Posts
Chase15.5 said:
C-40, Is the wipperman connex link narrow enough? No shifting issues?

Thats good information. While I don't regularly break the chain to clean it, having a connex link would be handy though.

Thanks for the info.
I've been riding Campy record on two bikes for the past 5 years for 12000 km/yr average with the SRAM gold quicklink (9 speed link) on the regular Campagnolo 10 speed chain -- I change out the quicklink every year just in case -- never had a problem. More importantly, I run a campagnolo 10 speed drivetrain w/ the SRAM link on my cyclocross rigs -- I've raced dozens of races every year in all conditions and have yet to see the link fail...

for what it's worth....


A+

Philippe
 

· Devoid of all flim-flam
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My Campy 10 Wipperman Connex link has yet to wear out after 3,000 plus miles. When I first installed it, it was slightly less than smooth going through the rear derailleur, but it settled in after about 100 miles and has been flawless ever since. By the way, I have the cheaper, older Campy 10 chain, which has lasted me a good 5,000 so far.
 

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philippec said:
I've been riding Campy record on two bikes for the past 5 years for 12000 km/yr average with the SRAM gold quicklink (9 speed link) on the regular Campagnolo 10 speed chain -- I change out the quicklink every year just in case -- never had a problem. More importantly, I run a campagnolo 10 speed drivetrain w/ the SRAM link on my cyclocross rigs -- I've raced dozens of races every year in all conditions and have yet to see the link fail...

for what it's worth....


A+

Philippe
I had the same setup for about a year until I found out 9sp chains also worked with Campy 10sp drive trains. Of course the 10sp chain will be lighter and shinier as well as easier to set-up but I can't see paying between $35 to $60 dollars for it. My 9sp KMC chain which works flawlessly cost me $8. :)
 

· C 1/5
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613 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Kerry Irons said:
This is virtually identical gearing to a 53/29 with a 12-26, but you'll have faster drive train wear due to the smaller cogs. Why did you go this route?
I thought about going with the 11x21 as that is closer to what i normally rode with my dura-ace (actually rode a 12x23), but i figured 11x23 would give more one extra gear (like the 12-26 you alluded too) when i ride the hills along the virginia/west virginia border without having a 12x26 on the bike.

i also saw the compact crank as giving me a little more flexibility should i put on a 12x26 and do long climbs out west or up north. as i mentioned before, i've had some injuries to my knees/legs (broken femur, tib/fib fracture, torn acl, comparment syndrome or right thigh) and i just want to save my knees from undue stress.

and finally - marketing probably had something to do with it. just wanted to try something new.
 
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