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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking forward to cross this fall and have been starting to get more serious about completing the build. I was planning to go with a custom steel Vassago frame and whiskey fork but, I'm going to go cheap for the first build to figure out what up, what works for me etc...I just found a used frame/fork for $260 and the brakes (used) for $70 which I thought was a very reasonable price. All the other items are left overs from years past just sitting idle from various road needs since 2010. I still need to find a saddle shoes and tires. Tires are the biggest ? for me at the moment. I'm in AZ so pretty dry. 5'10" and 155-ish. What would you run?

The 54 Ridley will allow me to set up the fit exactly like my road set up yet still give me room to go forward, back, up or down...Since I can't run to save my life none of this will matter I reckon!:)

Ridley 54 X-ride frame with the Oryx carbon fork
Bontrager Aeolus 5 CC wheels
3T Ergonova Pro bars
3T Pro Stem
3t LTD post
SRAM Red shifters
SRAM Force RD
SRAM Rival FD
SRAM Force Cranks 130 BCD with 46 rotor q ring (going 1x10) I think...
TRP EuroX Mag brakes
Crank Bros Egg Beater 1's
Saddle-TBD
Shoes-TBD
Tires-TBD
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Nearly complete. Just need tires and pedals. I'll post more when complete. Glad I went used for the first build. The frame is a touch too big even though it's set up identical to my road bike save the bars which are about 1.5cm higher. Also, the TRP mag brakes are soft, soft, soft. Easy to over tighten and crack the metal. Probably go with something more durable in the future.

I'll do a better write up when complete and I have more time. This thing is really a frankenbuild! Tried to keep cost way low to figure out what's what.:)
View attachment 280518
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have no idea what you mean.
The brakes are the EuroX Magnesium cantilevers by TRP. The cantilever arms are magnesium while the brake pad holder, which connects to the magnesium arms is aluminum. If one tightens the pinch bolts too much the mag arm can/will warp or bend which is what happened in my case. I purchased these used and the arms came a touch bent. I didn't really think too much of it at the time, but after tightening the pinch bolt we managed to either crack the arm or expose a crack that already existed. So now I have exposed magnesium which will come in contact with water. Hopefully the "magnesium" arms TRP makes are an alloy mixed with aluminum which can withstand a bit of water.

Getting my welding buddy involved so maybe we can fix them so they are functional. If not I guess I'll get to see my first magnesium fire.:idea:
 

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It looks good. Too bad about the sizing. Ridleys run big and cross bikes are often built a smidgen smaller than road bikes. Either way, you'll be fine racing on it for a season. Next time use whatever is left of the parts to build up another one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It looks good. Too bad about the sizing. Ridleys run big and cross bikes are often built a smidgen smaller than road bikes. Either way, you'll be fine racing on it for a season. Next time use whatever is left of the parts to build up another one.
That's the plan. I got the frame and fork for $260 so it's a small price to pay to learn what I like/need. I had good intel from buddy's to go a size down and everything looked good on paper. We'll see. First ride tomorrow. A few friends have build up a little course complete with barriers so I can get some practice before the season. Anywho, it's all fun! Looking forward to learning and getting schooled!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Gotcha. I'm skeptical about being able to fix them, but worth a shot?
My welder, who has not seen the brakes yet, was asking if they are machined or cast. Cast means more porous which makes for tricky welding apparently. Another is if the magnesium is an aluminum/mag alloy which would further complicate the process what with different melting temps and all.

Anyone know if these are machined or not?

Worth a shot? TBD. I'll be the guy with the fire extinguisher if we attempt it though. ;-)
 

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I'm so not an expert but to me they look like they are stamped out of a plate.

Do they work at all? If so, best strategy might simply be to leave them as is and keep an eye on them for a while. (Just a thought.)

It's a shame they're white, because if they were silver or black you could put the good one up front and you'd have a whole host of low-pro cantis to choose from for the rear.

To be honest, those old-school canti pad holders are kind of a pain to adjust. If the busted one ends up unusable, maybe just spring for a pair of Shimano CX70.
 

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One more thing, I look at the photo and I don't think the frame looks oversized at all (if that's your correct setup). In fact it looks spot-on to me. You could lower the bars (if you wanted to) just by taking out spacers. Ridleys are deliberately made tall and with a horizontal top tube because, well, they're built for CX. Handling will almost surely feel a bit less responsive than your road bike, but for good reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm so not an expert but to me they look like they are stamped out of a plate.

Do they work at all? If so, best strategy might simply be to leave them as is and keep an eye on them for a while. (Just a thought.)

It's a shame they're white, because if they were silver or black you could put the good one up front and you'd have a whole host of low-pro cantis to choose from for the rear.

To be honest, those old-school canti pad holders are kind of a pain to adjust. If the busted one ends up unusable, maybe just spring for a pair of Shimano CX70.
They work, but for how long is the question? If it can't be repaired I'm ok with mismatched front and rear units for a while until I learn what I like/need/want...

One more thing, I look at the photo and I don't think the frame looks oversized at all (if that's your correct setup). In fact it looks spot-on to me. You could lower the bars (if you wanted to) just by taking out spacers. Ridleys are deliberately made tall and with a horizontal top tube because, well, they're built for CX. Handling will almost surely feel a bit less responsive than your road bike, but for good reason.
Interesting. Thanks for the insight. The horizontal TT will make it easier to shoulder? I guess I'm showing my ignorance. The bars are about 1.5cm higher than the road bike with plenty of room to go up or down. Handling will be interesting. I do have years and years of mountain bike time in me so I'll be curious to compare. I really think tire selection is going to be the toughest variable to nail down. JMO
 

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Many 'cross racers end up running 1X10 for simplicity and durability. If you decide on it you can replace that outer ring with a BBG bashguard. Home

I like my 1X10 cross bike. I have a 36T and have only wanted more gearing a few times. But I like to spin. I may go bigger in the future. Your bike looks good (hopefully the frame sizing works out) and I'm not saying you should do what I've done. 1X10 is just something to think about if you end up finding that shifting between the rings in a cross race is more trouble than it's worth.
 
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