I've seen pics of FGs that have 2 brake levers routed into the front brake caliper. How is this done? I want to switch from bullhorns to drops and run 2 levers without one being a dummy.
2 levers/1 front brake?
marc180
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10,520 Posts
There are probably other ways, but Jtek makes a gadget that does the trick:
http://jtekengineering.com/AeroBrake.htm
So does Problem Solvers:
http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30&action=details&sku=BR3342
Me? I just run a rear brake. Versatility and redundancy is not without benefits. Cheaper, too.
http://jtekengineering.com/AeroBrake.htm
So does Problem Solvers:
http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30&action=details&sku=BR3342
Me? I just run a rear brake. Versatility and redundancy is not without benefits. Cheaper, too.
Joined
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142 Posts
I think a lot of the top-of-the-handlebar cross brake levers are designed to work in-line with existing brake systems. For example:
http://www.canecreek.com/crosstop-brake-levers.html
the pic and description show a normal road brake lever and the crosstop lever working together with the same brake cable "They are designed to work in-line with traditional drop bar shifter/levers to provide additional braking control position on the top of handlebars."
Hope this helps...
http://www.canecreek.com/crosstop-brake-levers.html
the pic and description show a normal road brake lever and the crosstop lever working together with the same brake cable "They are designed to work in-line with traditional drop bar shifter/levers to provide additional braking control position on the top of handlebars."
Hope this helps...
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142 Posts
ProsperityRed said:
...Although this wont really work if you're planning on using two bar-end levers (one on each side). it would probably work if you used one bar end lever and one top of the handlebar lever, assuming you were doing no internal cable routing.
I personally use one bar end lever on my bullhorns and an expander endcap (made by Hope) to cover up the hole on the unused end of the bullhorns.
2 into 1.
I've been thinking about this. On my converted Raleigh commuter I'm running just the left DiaCompe lever to the "old school" center pull. I'd like the right as a "dummy" for a hand position, but the old style DiaCompe's have no spring tension and, barring some stupid fix, rattle like lead shot in a coffee can.
I looked at the J-Tek "2 into 1" and it looks promising. Right and left levers, matching cable runs, the ability to brake from either hand, and the aforementioned hand position.
The problem is the sucker is expensive, even at wholesale, and I'm not sure I have enough vertical clearance to allow fitting it between the stem and the headset mounted cable hanger. Not enough and the cable housings would come in at such an angle to clear the stem as to bind.
Anybody done this? Here are some pics to show what I mean.
I've been thinking about this. On my converted Raleigh commuter I'm running just the left DiaCompe lever to the "old school" center pull. I'd like the right as a "dummy" for a hand position, but the old style DiaCompe's have no spring tension and, barring some stupid fix, rattle like lead shot in a coffee can.
I looked at the J-Tek "2 into 1" and it looks promising. Right and left levers, matching cable runs, the ability to brake from either hand, and the aforementioned hand position.
The problem is the sucker is expensive, even at wholesale, and I'm not sure I have enough vertical clearance to allow fitting it between the stem and the headset mounted cable hanger. Not enough and the cable housings would come in at such an angle to clear the stem as to bind.
Anybody done this? Here are some pics to show what I mean.
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