Hello everyone...Searched a bit for an answer to this question but couldn't really find one. So here goes...I live in NY where we get lots of snow and lots of salt on the roads. I planned on riding my carbon road bike through the winter but only when the roads are COMPLETELY dry. Matter of fact, when the conditions are like this, all of the salt and sand collect way to tthe right of the white line. My question is, would riding on roads that are dry affect my bike at all? Or is it just when the roads are damp? Thanks to all that respond. My cycling buddies have been debating this for a day or two now....
dry, salted roads and riding
NYBigfoot
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Hello everyone...Searched a bit for an answer to this question but couldn't really find one. So here goes...I live in NY where we get lots of snow and lots of salt on the roads. I planned on riding my carbon road bike through the winter but only when the roads are COMPLETELY dry. Matter of fact, when the conditions are like this, all of the salt and sand collect way to tthe right of the white line. My question is, would riding on roads that are dry affect my bike at all? Or is it just when the roads are damp? Thanks to all that respond. My cycling buddies have been debating this for a day or two now....
It's a hundred time worse when its wet, but even an occasional wet area can wreak havoc, when its dry but you hit a melting spot for example-its not the frame as much as the components, you can wipe the frame down and get that done quickly, the RD and the cranks and BB, brakes and HS area need some time and you should be diligent, because rust can set in quickly
b21
b21
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The carbon frame will not be affected by the salt. But you could run into corrosion occurring on the metal parts - shifters, derailleurs, BB/Frame interface.
As long as you keep the bike clean and lubed after riding, you should not have any issues. I would, however, think about changing the cables after the winter was over. Hard to tell the condition of the cable housings. But that's just me.
As long as you keep the bike clean and lubed after riding, you should not have any issues. I would, however, think about changing the cables after the winter was over. Hard to tell the condition of the cable housings. But that's just me.
Exactly right—don't worry about the carbon. I don't normally wash a bike, but I think a salted-road (even if dry) ride really does call for a quick wash with a bucket of luke-warm water and a soft brush (no hose). What you have after the wash is just a wet bike like you'd have after a summer rain ride, so just wipe dry and relube the chain and derailleur pivot points.frdfandc said:
Photo is an extreme case of salt-air/spray riding and no cleaning ever, but it shows how carbon survives easily where metal (especially the steel in this photo) has a hard time.
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Personally, I wouldn't do it with a bike I cared about (when I say bike I mean components mostly).
I did 50 miles a few days ago on previously salted but dry (except where snow had melted into the road) roads and at the end my drive train and brakes were dry and gunked up with grit at about the equivolent of where they'd be after 300 miles in the summer. I cleaned it up and all is fine, and you can't expect components to last forever no matter what, but still it seemed this type of riding would accelerate the deterioration of components at a rate I wasn't comfortable with.
I'm making my own guess there course. Give it a shot. One ride shouldn't hurt, assuming you clean up well, so see what happens and then make a call for going forward.
I did 50 miles a few days ago on previously salted but dry (except where snow had melted into the road) roads and at the end my drive train and brakes were dry and gunked up with grit at about the equivolent of where they'd be after 300 miles in the summer. I cleaned it up and all is fine, and you can't expect components to last forever no matter what, but still it seemed this type of riding would accelerate the deterioration of components at a rate I wasn't comfortable with.
I'm making my own guess there course. Give it a shot. One ride shouldn't hurt, assuming you clean up well, so see what happens and then make a call for going forward.
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that's hideous...
G
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·Yes, that corrosion is painful to view.
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I ride year round & I live in a snowbelt area as well. I don't know why so many people are intent on riding their summer bikes during the winter. Best advice is to get a winter beater bike. Something that is cheap & won't make your heart flutter if it gets scratched. When I get home from a ride, I'm usually soaked & freezing. I just toss my bike & forget about it. Who cares?? Its a beater.
An old steel frame is perfect for winter riding. I just run 9 speed on my beater cause parts for it are cheap & easy to come by. If your carbon bike is running say Dura Ace or Record the chain will wear faster in the winter as will the rest of your drive train. So premature parts replacement is an issue too unless you like washing your bike after every ride. Although carbon is inert with respect to salt corrosion, the paint finish is not. Carbon frames unless nude have a painted base coat & clear coat just like a car. Salt will eat away or haze a clear coat finish.
The trick in winter riding is to winter proof your bike. Instead of using grease on threaded parts, I use anti-seize compound because I learned the hard way once when I had to cut a seized stem. Also I spray the inside of my tubes with the same stuff that they use on car rustproofing which can be bought at any hardware store. Wax your bike just like a car before winter arrives.
Lastly riding a heavier bike in winter will give you a harder workout & come spring time when you switch to your lighter summer bike will give you a huge performance boost.
An old steel frame is perfect for winter riding. I just run 9 speed on my beater cause parts for it are cheap & easy to come by. If your carbon bike is running say Dura Ace or Record the chain will wear faster in the winter as will the rest of your drive train. So premature parts replacement is an issue too unless you like washing your bike after every ride. Although carbon is inert with respect to salt corrosion, the paint finish is not. Carbon frames unless nude have a painted base coat & clear coat just like a car. Salt will eat away or haze a clear coat finish.
The trick in winter riding is to winter proof your bike. Instead of using grease on threaded parts, I use anti-seize compound because I learned the hard way once when I had to cut a seized stem. Also I spray the inside of my tubes with the same stuff that they use on car rustproofing which can be bought at any hardware store. Wax your bike just like a car before winter arrives.
Lastly riding a heavier bike in winter will give you a harder workout & come spring time when you switch to your lighter summer bike will give you a huge performance boost.
Here in NJ they pre-salt roads with a liquid solution. As soon as this stuff hits the roads, I go to my winter bike. The AL frame doesn't hold up better than CF, but I value my CF bikes more. Especially with the greater crash risk on black ice, frozen deer blood, etc.
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If you keep it clean it'll be all right. I was a daily commuter for 20 years. My commuter was a steel frame with rather nice components. I never had a problem, but I cleaned, especially the running gear, scrupulously.
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Especially with the greater crash risk on black ice, frozen deer blood, etc.[/QUOTE]
Frozen deer blood! Can't say I've hit any frozen deer blood patches lately....
Frozen deer blood! Can't say I've hit any frozen deer blood patches lately....
Frozen deer blood! Can't say I've hit any frozen deer blood patches lately....cyclesport45 said:
[/QUOTE]We've got so many deer, and resulting dead deer, on the roads around here (north of Princeton, NJ), it's crazy. We have to shoo them out of the driveway when we get home at night. One day I was riding on a local road and there was a deer hoof laying in the road. No deer, no other deer parts, no blood, just a hoof.
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We have quite a few deer vs auto encounters here in Wisconsin. Smears of deer on the road happen and are slick even when temps are above freezing. So are raccoons.
As for the bike vs salt, a fresh spray of warm water followed by a soapy rinse and another clean rinse are as much as my bikes get and then only if they go into the warmth of the house. If they sit in the cold of the garage, I wait until temps warm above freezing before rinsing. I almost never ride the steel bikes in the winter. Two Al and two Ti bikes see all the nastiness.
As for the bike vs salt, a fresh spray of warm water followed by a soapy rinse and another clean rinse are as much as my bikes get and then only if they go into the warmth of the house. If they sit in the cold of the garage, I wait until temps warm above freezing before rinsing. I almost never ride the steel bikes in the winter. Two Al and two Ti bikes see all the nastiness.
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I went to HomeDepot and bought a 2.5 gal bug sprayer -pressurized via hand pump. I use warm water and Meguiar's Carwash formula [3 - 4 oz] in the warm water. Pump up the sprayer and wash down the bike completely after a winter ride. The warmth of the mixture is just enough to get salt and dirt off the frame, wheels and components before the freezing temps outside will turn everything to ice.NYBigfoot said:
Careful of the creeking headset, stem noises that prevail. Be careful to use an assembly lube [Ritchey, FSA, Effetto Mariposa] on the stem, both into the steering tube and the bars itself. Also watch the seat post too and apply assembly lube to that as well. Stuff starts to creek when you wash down a bike often.
Most important part of the process is rinsing the bike. I actually cheat and have a second 2.5 gal warm water pump sprayer to rinse before bringing the bike into the home.
Beginning of my season last February.
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+1Mr. Versatile said:
I live in Rochester, NY. I ride commute by bike every day--rain, snow, wind, salt, and even on the occasional warm, dry and sunny day. Clean up after every dirty ride, and it will be just fine.
In the winter I even put fenders on my fair weather fun ride bike, just so I don't have to wait for the roads to be clear and dry--clear will do. Not that my main bike is a beater--far from it. (Beaters are for drunks and the homeless, IMHO) But just so I don't have to swap the studs on my main bike.
Other than fenders, my fast ride, fun bike gets no other "winterization".
My main commuter gets studded snows, larger fenders, and I switch from ProLink to a "wet" lube. That's it.
On those days (like yesterday and today) where the road is dry, but white with salt, and you can taste it in the air, I don't do any more or less than I do after any dirty ride. I hang the bike in the shower, and rinse it down, then let it drip dry.
Here's my primary commuter, an '06 Trek Portland, getting cleaned up.
A couple of times a week, I relube the chain and once a month it gets a soap and water bath. In spring, all the bearings are cleaned and repacked, it gets new cables and housing, and a new chain. I also give the RD a little extra attention. Nothing more than most people do in the springtime anyway.
The point is, the worry warts' scare stories have no basis in reality. If I can ride my bike five or six days a week through Rochester's worst with no problems, you certainly can take your carbon wonderbike out on sunny dry days (if we ever get any) with no lasting harm either. Go ride yer bike!
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LMAO! I love your idea about the shower. We have a hand-held wand that would be perfect. I might try it, but if "She, who must be obeyed" catches me is it all right if I spend a couple of nights in your garage?
G
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·I hear you there, I think my bike in the shower wouldn't go over. I'd probably have better luck dragging it to bed.
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