120, 130, 135? And why?
What rear spacing for the singlespeed guys?
Henry Chinaski
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120, 130, 135? And why?
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Depends
For a track-end frame, maybe 120 for the wider selection of bolt-on hubs.
For a slider, EBB, tensioner frame, 130 for the best overall selection of CX suitable hubs/wheelsets (if you don't mind cassette hubs with spacers).
For a track-end frame, maybe 120 for the wider selection of bolt-on hubs.
For a slider, EBB, tensioner frame, 130 for the best overall selection of CX suitable hubs/wheelsets (if you don't mind cassette hubs with spacers).
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130. Cassette hubs w/spacers are more versatile (more availability, can swap with a geared bike, easier to re-sell) and almost always lighter. I use a DT Swiss RWS steel mtb skewer and no tensioner and have never (well once but that was my mechanic's fault) had a wheel slip in my track end.
Whatever your frame was made for. 130 for canti's or V's, and 135 if you've got discs.
And I also prefer cassette style SS hubs. (You can add a few gears down the road to if you so desire.)
Do they make any 130mm cassette style SS hubs? I can only think of 135 versions off the top of my head.
And I also prefer cassette style SS hubs. (You can add a few gears down the road to if you so desire.)
Do they make any 130mm cassette style SS hubs? I can only think of 135 versions off the top of my head.
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135 gives a much wider spectrum of Singlespeed specific hubs that would build a dishless ( strong) wheel, plus there are plenty of cog/cassette style hubs that make gear changes a snap, and let you get perfect chainline to make dropped chains a non-issue. Something like the DT 240 SS or King SS hubs would build up light and strong on whatever tubular rim you like. I would only go 130 if the frame had an EBB or sliders but even then the selection of SS specific hubs is limited, and using a standard cassette hub is a compromise to wheel strength. 120 is for a track bike so you could run into chainline issues if you can't get a narrow enough bottom bracket and still fit cross-size tires.
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You end up settling for plenty-strong instead of slightly-more-than-plenty-strong.dankilling said:
Do you ride a frame made out of solid bar stock, or do you compromise frame strength and ride on thin-walled tubes?
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No, I just prefer to get every last bit of quality out of a build I can rather than just internet-snipe everyone else's comments. He asked for information about rear wheel spacing, so I gave it plus my reasoning for the one I would prefer.PeanutButterBreath said:You end up settling for plenty-strong instead of slightly-more-than-plenty-strong.
Do you ride a frame made out of solid bar stock, or do you compromise frame strength and ride on thin-walled tubes?
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I suppose you would consider an "internet-snipe" to point out that, strictly speaking, you don't know squat about a hub's comparative "strength" just by looking at the spacing. You need to know the width, height and relative positions of the flanges.
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I suppose you would be surprised for me to point out that, strictly speaking, I know quite a bit more about hub choice relative to wheel strength than you have assumed. The current selection of 135 spaced hubs offers a far wider selection range of width, height, flange position, flange thickness, spacing, and dish than the current selection of 130 spaced singlespeed specific hubs. And that's just the begining- rider weight, height, riding style, terrain, and intended use. Rim width, depth, joining method, etc.......all of it goes into play when building up a wheel. The OP was asking about rear spacing and why. 135 gives the most flexibility and all else equal, builds up a stronger wheel. A wider base gives better strength. Period.PeanutButterBreath said:
Except your choice of 135 spaced cross frames is almost nonexistent, and resale on that wheel will be very low because nobody can use the 135 OLD, singlespeed, non-disc wheel. If you stick to standard cross wheels, there's a lot more to choose from and resale value is good because they work on most cross and road bikes.
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No argument against about resale value- you're right there. But any SS specific frame won't have great resale value to begin with.....jmoote said:
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Opinion: 130mm spacing provides the widest flexibility with regard to component selection and re-sale (of both the frame and wheels). Standard cassette wheels are even easier to source and re-sell.dankilling said:
Fact: it is amply obvious that there is no realistic concern about the "strength" of CX wheels built around 130mm spaced hubs.
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Fact- 135mm sized hubs offer a greater variety in terms of choice for singlespeed wheel builds.PeanutButterBreath said:
Fact- The original question was for singlespeed wheels, not cassette wheels intended for geared use.
Opinion- Resale value is meaningless for components you will be using for cross. Run the best parts you can afford to break, then buy new parts.
Opinion followed by fact- Internet arguments are meaningless so I'm done arguing.
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I see the problem here.
Your view of the question (as asked), the variety of equipment used every day by countless single speeders and the market for CX equipment seems to be narrower than mine. That said, far be it from me to argue that wider is automatically better.
Your view of the question (as asked), the variety of equipment used every day by countless single speeders and the market for CX equipment seems to be narrower than mine. That said, far be it from me to argue that wider is automatically better.
I spec'ed 135 mm on my SS rigs so I could go with Phil, Chris King, or Paul SS specific hubs using White screw on freewheels on the Phil and Paul hubs, adjusting the Chris chainline to match the others on the King hub.
My Moots and Matt Chester SS rigs will never be on the block so what do I care about resale? Anybody want to show me better hubs than the above for my rigs and I'll bite.
I totally don't understand the comments about adding gears later, If you are into SS you don't need no stinkin gears later. SS cross is a real handful, especially racing guys with multi speed bikes, but it sure is fun. Must also state I do TT on the road fixed against gearies, FWIW.
My Moots and Matt Chester SS rigs will never be on the block so what do I care about resale? Anybody want to show me better hubs than the above for my rigs and I'll bite.
I totally don't understand the comments about adding gears later, If you are into SS you don't need no stinkin gears later. SS cross is a real handful, especially racing guys with multi speed bikes, but it sure is fun. Must also state I do TT on the road fixed against gearies, FWIW.
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I'm holding out for new Euro 154 mm spacing. I think that will make the best use of all the properties of the basic hub/axle/frame construction. Metallurgically speaking, the more material, the better.
I've forgotten more about everything than you will ever know.
moo?
I've forgotten more about everything than you will ever know.
moo?
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C Cow said:
^^ Now that's just funny. Thanks for lightening it up!
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