Has anyone ever taken one of these apart?
Do I need to take it apart? It sounds a bit gritty inside - not a very nice noise.
Do I need to take it apart? It sounds a bit gritty inside - not a very nice noise.
Trek_envy
Mostly not difficult.
In fact it's surprisingly easy, for the most part. They are HUGI hubs by DT/Swiss. You can pull the dust cover off the non-drive side by hand. That should show you the cartridge bearings. Then, except for the problem discussed below, taking it apart is no different than any other cartridge bearing hub.
The freehub itself is a star-ratchet system. It gives you quicker engagement than a normal "pawl" system, like Shimano. Once you clean it, you can use a thick lube (like Phil Tenacious Oil) to lube it. Like CK, they have their own lube designed for the freehubs, if you want to get specific. As with any freehub/freewheel, don't use grease, it's much too thick for proper ratcheting function.
Now for the problem. That same cool star-ratchet, also makes it impossible to replace the innermost cartridge bearing (there are 4) without a specific tool. This was discussed recently on the Wheels/Tires forum. You should check with your local TREK/LeMond/Fisher/Klein dealer to make sure they have the proper tool before having them "change" your bearings for you. Don't let them say they "can make it work" or something similar. Make sure they have the star-ratchet tool.
Bob
In fact it's surprisingly easy, for the most part. They are HUGI hubs by DT/Swiss. You can pull the dust cover off the non-drive side by hand. That should show you the cartridge bearings. Then, except for the problem discussed below, taking it apart is no different than any other cartridge bearing hub.
The freehub itself is a star-ratchet system. It gives you quicker engagement than a normal "pawl" system, like Shimano. Once you clean it, you can use a thick lube (like Phil Tenacious Oil) to lube it. Like CK, they have their own lube designed for the freehubs, if you want to get specific. As with any freehub/freewheel, don't use grease, it's much too thick for proper ratcheting function.
Now for the problem. That same cool star-ratchet, also makes it impossible to replace the innermost cartridge bearing (there are 4) without a specific tool. This was discussed recently on the Wheels/Tires forum. You should check with your local TREK/LeMond/Fisher/Klein dealer to make sure they have the proper tool before having them "change" your bearings for you. Don't let them say they "can make it work" or something similar. Make sure they have the star-ratchet tool.
Bob
Here's where Im having the problem.
I've taken off the non-drive dustcap, and tapped the axle out towards the drive side. It comes out with the drive-side bearing pressed on. Fine.
Now I have to get the free-hub body off. The Bontrager manual says it should just slide of with my fingers. This one doesnt. Can you help me out here? Maybe some persuasion?
Kind of at a loss.
I've taken off the non-drive dustcap, and tapped the axle out towards the drive side. It comes out with the drive-side bearing pressed on. Fine.
Now I have to get the free-hub body off. The Bontrager manual says it should just slide of with my fingers. This one doesnt. Can you help me out here? Maybe some persuasion?
Kind of at a loss.
Hmmm, haven't had that problem before.
Maybe a little gentle persuasion might be in order. But be very careful about it. I wouldn't try to pry it off.
You might try to "shock" it a bit with a couple of GENTLE blows with a rubber mallet on the sides of the freehub body. That might release it.
As a last-ditch, I suppose you could try placing a thin piece of soft pine (or other soft material) on both sides of the freehub body (as extra-soft "softjaws") and VERY carefully put it in a vice. Again, if you try this, BE VERY CAREFUL when clamping it down. Better to let it slip a few times before you get the pressure right. At the risk of pushing this statement too far - BE CAREFUL. It wouldn't take much to deform/damage the freehub body. This also might be obvious, but I don't pull on the rim, only the non-drive side flange of the hub.
A side note for when you do get the freehub body off. Remember that applying force to the inner race of a cartridge bearing will typically damage it. So be ready to replace any or all bearings removed from it's seat in that fashion.
Good luck,
Bob
Maybe a little gentle persuasion might be in order. But be very careful about it. I wouldn't try to pry it off.
You might try to "shock" it a bit with a couple of GENTLE blows with a rubber mallet on the sides of the freehub body. That might release it.
As a last-ditch, I suppose you could try placing a thin piece of soft pine (or other soft material) on both sides of the freehub body (as extra-soft "softjaws") and VERY carefully put it in a vice. Again, if you try this, BE VERY CAREFUL when clamping it down. Better to let it slip a few times before you get the pressure right. At the risk of pushing this statement too far - BE CAREFUL. It wouldn't take much to deform/damage the freehub body. This also might be obvious, but I don't pull on the rim, only the non-drive side flange of the hub.
A side note for when you do get the freehub body off. Remember that applying force to the inner race of a cartridge bearing will typically damage it. So be ready to replace any or all bearings removed from it's seat in that fashion.
Good luck,
Bob
Heres how I've done it...
I've taken off the freehub before taking out the axle. To do this I thread back on the cassette lockring then wrap a rag around it. I can set the wheel on the ground, grab the rag (there so the lockring won't tear up my hands) and slowly pull the freehub off the axle body...
I've taken off the freehub before taking out the axle. To do this I thread back on the cassette lockring then wrap a rag around it. I can set the wheel on the ground, grab the rag (there so the lockring won't tear up my hands) and slowly pull the freehub off the axle body...
from what I understand, the hub you have is the same as my Hugi 240. On this one, I have to pull pretty strong on the cassette before the whole thing comes apart. Somebody said once to use a quick release slightly bent to push the cap from the inside of the axle, but I just didn't bother, pulling on the cassette works fine.
You can send an email to Hugi people, they will send you a small bag of grease for the ratchet mechanism for free. That grease stinks more than any other grease I know.
Pierre
You can send an email to Hugi people, they will send you a small bag of grease for the ratchet mechanism for free. That grease stinks more than any other grease I know.
Pierre
DT should support...
Bob
those hubs, DT/Swiss is stamped on them. And DT has really good customer service. I know that the hubs on the Race Lite and up are definitely HUGI 240's, and the Race hubs have the same mechanism (star ratchet, 4 cartridge bearings, etc.). But going to your TREK/LeMond/Fisher/Klein (Bontrager) dealer wouldn't hurt either, if you can't get the freehub to release.Anti-gravity said:
Bob
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