If I understand the Part Tool site explanation correctly, my Shimano Canti pads have washers that can be used to toe them in. If I loosen them up, and play with the washers, I should be able to toe both pads in equally? Sound correct? Mine are screamin' like a banshee.
Toeing in brakes...
CBar
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
If I understand the Part Tool site explanation correctly, my Shimano Canti pads have washers that can be used to toe them in. If I loosen them up, and play with the washers, I should be able to toe both pads in equally? Sound correct? Mine are screamin' like a banshee.
Joined
·
20,696 Posts
yep. Just loosen them up and toe them in. It's pretty easy
Joined
·
406 Posts
It could also mean they are dirty and have picked up some metal. You can clear it up with a clean file or just change them if need be.
Joined
·
20,696 Posts
instead of a file, steal your wife's emory boardsAlpedhuez55 said:
A LBS sold me cantilever pads that are shaped to create correct toe-in automatically on installation. I think it is this one:
http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.html#Anchor-adjustments-61748
"Angled plow tip for rain and mud removal. This also provides correct toe-in installation "
http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.html#Anchor-adjustments-61748
"Angled plow tip for rain and mud removal. This also provides correct toe-in installation "
Isn't that assuming that nothing else in the pad wears down and that I do not tighten up all the bolts in the brake? I think the angle of the shaft that is more important than the angle of the pad surface.rriddle3 said:
Anyway, my brakes with Koolstops work as well as I expect cantilevers to work, and I do not have a problem with brakes making a lot of noice.
I think I put the new pads on last year. They will probably last me another year, or maybe two.
Unless you apply full pressure to the brakes every time you use them (which is unlikely), you will notice that the leading tip (the angled part of the pad) touches first and takes the most wear. Why would you not tighten all the bolts?perttime said:
And sooner or later the pad surface will be level, yes. My pads are flat now, braking is good and I do not have a noice problem. I still think that the angle of the shaft is more important than the angle of the pad surface. Can somebody more technically gifted enlighten us more about this?rriddle3 said:
I thought that you were assuming that I do not tighten my bolts. I think the only way to keep only the heel of the pad wearing down is to either keep adjusting or leave the bolts loose. Let's not argue about this.
I am not certain this is what the original poster wanted to talk about, though.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
