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165 mm is 6.49 inches
172 mm is 6.77 inches.

That's about 1/4 inch shorter on the downstroke, and another 1/4 inch at the top.
So you can drop your seat 1/4 inch and you'll raise your leg 1/2 inch less high at the top of the pedal stroke. Is that enough to make a difference?

I do have a specific physical problem. The conversion to a short crank arm is something my PT / fitter wants me to do. I'm on a bike break until I do it. I realize it will be expensive and a real pain in the... I currently have a 172.5 mm and preferably would like to go shorter than 165mm, which is the lowest most "big names" go.
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Does your fitter have one of those adjustable fitter trainer bikes? Some have shorter cranks to swap in.

Crank arm shorteners are sometimes used on tandems with a smaller stoker. They screw into the pedal hole, then extend back toward the spindle with more pedal holes. They do move the pedals outward, which might cause it's own fitting problems.

For example:
Ride2 Crank Arm Shorteners

Tandems East - Crankarm Shorteners




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or a do-it-yourself project: drill and tap the solid aluminum arm.

That looks kind of sketchy. He cut off the arm way too close to the drilled hole, and also says that the arm is hollowed out on the backside. So there's not as much threading as the original hole.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
165 mm is 6.49 inches
172 mm is 6.77 inches.

That's about 1/4 inch shorter on the downstroke, and another 1/4 inch at the top.
So you can drop your seat 1/4 inch and you'll raise your leg 1/2 inch less high. Is that enough to make a difference?
I don't know if 1.5 cm (7.5mm x 2) will be enough :). I certainly hope so.
 
Go to a different bike fitter.
I am having an difficult time trying to figure out OP's problem and how anything other than child sized cranks would make much impact.

Problems: tight achilles tendon; tight quads. Achilles causes foot to point down, which causes knee to go too high, which causes too much shear force on knee.

My thoughts:
1) if your foot can go perpendicular to your lower leg (like when you walk), then why can't it go perpendicular when you pedal?
2) assuming the same cadence range, a shorter crank is going to require relatively more force to generate the same power/bike speed. Won't more force make the shearing force on the knee a bit worse?
3) OP called the person recommending this a PT/fitter. I have a great amount of respect for PTs. But, does the person really know cycling in particular? The thing they are vaguely suggesting (shortest crank you can get) does not sound like it is coming from a person that understands bicycle component availability.
4) if the problem is simply right tendons and muscles, will continued quality stretching improve the condition over time? If so, why not dedicate yourself to regular stretching - like multiple times throughout your day.
 
I'm a red suspenders and corn cob pipe Moto Guzzi restorer, so I always look at the least expensive way when experimenting. Drilling, tapping for a helicoil and trying the shorter crank distance on your existing cranks is at most a ~$100 at any local machine shop, likely cheaper. If you like it, you can proceed with a final solution, if not, you now have a lighter bike. Let us know how things work out.
Cheers,
 
I'm a red suspenders and corn cob pipe Moto Guzzi restorer, so I always look at the least expensive way when experimenting. Drilling, tapping for a helicoil and trying the shorter crank distance on your existing cranks is at most a ~$100 at any local machine shop, likely cheaper. If you like it, you can proceed with a final solution, if not, you now have a lighter bike. Let us know how things work out.
Cheers,
You can't drill and tap hollow carbon crank arms.
 
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