Sealed cartridge bearing removal/replacement question
I have a freehub body from an older Reynolds wheel that has two sealed cartridge bearings inside of it. The bearings inside the freehub body (not the axle) are getting very rough so I'd like to replace them. When I inquired, I got the following advice and instructions from Reynolds customer service:
I've set headsets, crown races, and other things unrelated to bikes that require even pressure and sensible feeling for the amount of force need, so I get that - even and easy force - but I'm wondering if it's worthwhile buying a bearing press and/or bearing extractor as they're pretty cheap. But that would delay the project, thwarting momentum because I'd have to order it (I think).
Thanks in advance.
I have a freehub body from an older Reynolds wheel that has two sealed cartridge bearings inside of it. The bearings inside the freehub body (not the axle) are getting very rough so I'd like to replace them. When I inquired, I got the following advice and instructions from Reynolds customer service:
It is a much older style KT hub that is a bit different from what we currently use. We no longer have freehub bodies for those hubs but the bearings are replaceable. There are two bearings inside the freehub body which are 15268 bearings.
Removing the bearings currently in the hub is a pretty simple process. If you look through the freehub body with the pawls closest to you, you’ll see the inner race of the inboard bearing. Both of the bearings will need to be pushed out the other side. I would find a socket or punch that you can use to push these bearings out of the driveside. There is also a small spacer that goes between the two bearings. Once removed you’ll need to push the new bearings in. I would recommend using a socket that fits the outside race of the bearing when you’re pushing them back in. I hope this points in you in the correct direction....
The bearings are readily available, and totally understand these instructions, can see that there are two bearings with a spacer, etc. But I just want to know if there's any "gotchas" I am not seeing in these instructions - like what am I going to ruin if I knock out the bearings. The hub is rideable the way it is, and I'd rather just ride with scratchy bearings in the freehub body than need to buy a new hub and rebuild the wheels at this point in time.Removing the bearings currently in the hub is a pretty simple process. If you look through the freehub body with the pawls closest to you, you’ll see the inner race of the inboard bearing. Both of the bearings will need to be pushed out the other side. I would find a socket or punch that you can use to push these bearings out of the driveside. There is also a small spacer that goes between the two bearings. Once removed you’ll need to push the new bearings in. I would recommend using a socket that fits the outside race of the bearing when you’re pushing them back in. I hope this points in you in the correct direction....
I've set headsets, crown races, and other things unrelated to bikes that require even pressure and sensible feeling for the amount of force need, so I get that - even and easy force - but I'm wondering if it's worthwhile buying a bearing press and/or bearing extractor as they're pretty cheap. But that would delay the project, thwarting momentum because I'd have to order it (I think).
Thanks in advance.
