rim damage

tvJefe · Oct 25, 2015

I slipped into a deep groove in the pavement yesterday and caused some damage to my rim/brake track. Can I still ride on this? Do I need to replace? Thoughts?

Thanks!

bikerjulio · Oct 25, 2015

No need to replace. Remove tire. Take a fine file and take off the high spots, especially on the brake track. Finish with 600 grit emery paper.

dcgriz · Oct 25, 2015

bikerjulio said:
No need to replace. Remove tire. Take a fine file and take off the high spots, especially on the brake track. Finish with 600 grit emery paper.

^^^this. Also place a straight edge across the scarred area to make sure the rim lip is not bent. If it is it could be carefully straightened with welding type pliers.

ridesmasterx · Oct 26, 2015

Be the craftsman!! Like others have said, file things smooth, buff it out a bit and ride.

MerlinAma · Oct 26, 2015

Might check your brake pad alignment too. Make sure it's not too close to the tire side where your rim issues are.

ericm979 · Oct 26, 2015

You only need to file/sand off any high spots that catch on the brake pad. If you do more than that the brakes will pulse annoyingly. If you don't feel or hear the damaged spot when braking then don't do anything.

looigi · Oct 27, 2015

+++. Only the high spots. A fine flat file held flat against and moved along the brake track works well to accomplish this.

November Dave · Oct 27, 2015

Check inside lip to make sure nothing nasty will be coming after your tire bead, then what others have said. Check for dents as Mike said, and if you have a good caliper check to make sure width isn't locally modified.

The mistake would be doing too much. This is one of those "first, do no harm" deals. The scar on the right in the photo looks like it may need to be addressed, the others I would do nothing until they proved to be problematic.

froze · Oct 27, 2015

Don't just use any file, make sure it's a fine tooth metal file, get the rough edge down as much as you can then finish with the 600 grit as mentioned. All I've ever used was just sandpaper and never a file. I use a wet/dry 3M sandpaper starting with 120 and working up to 1200, but if you don't want to buy 4 different grits of sandpaper 600 will work just will take longer and not be as smooth when done. I have a sanding sponge (dampen it before using) I keep on hand in case I run into a rounded edge, the sponge will conform to the edge making it better to sand with. This is all I use; some want a mirror finish I don't have any need to get that radical especially since rims rarely come with a mirror finish. Make sure you rub the rim in the direction of the grain in the aluminium.

If you don't want to go too nuts over this then just take some sandpaper and smooth it the best you can or want to then ride it! The brake pads will take out the rest of the harshness over time but it could chew the pads up faster till it smooths out and might grab a tiny bit.

robt57 · Oct 27, 2015

bikerjulio said:
No need to replace. Remove tire. Take a fine file and take off the high spots, especially on the brake track. Finish with 600 grit emery paper.

This^, skip the 600 grit. Are the pads going to be near that? Does not seem so looking at that pic to me...

froze · Oct 28, 2015

robt57 said:
This^, skip the 600 grit. Are the pads going to be near that? Does not seem so looking at that pic to me...

I disagree with this, my opinion of course, I would skip the file and use the sandpaper. Those are minor gouges and not on the brake track, or it shouldn't be on the brake track.

goodboyr · Oct 28, 2015

Dremel with sanding drums.

Srode · Oct 28, 2015

Why would you use Dremel? It's soft material, it will dress down fast and a flat tool like a file by hand is much easier to control and get the high spots knocked down which is all that's needed prior to putting the finishing touch on with sand paper or emory cloth.

goodboyr · Oct 28, 2015

With the right buffing wheel I find a variable speed dremel easier to control.

cdhbrad · Oct 28, 2015

I have always used a Medium or Fine grit Diamond file when smoothing nicks in a rim, never a metal file. Usually follow with 0000 synthetic steel wool.

froze · Oct 28, 2015

Srode said:
Why would you use Dremel? It's soft material, it will dress down fast and a flat tool like a file by hand is much easier to control and get the high spots knocked down which is all that's needed prior to putting the finishing touch on with sand paper or emory cloth.

I agree, too much room for error using a high speed Dremel, it's soft material as you said and doing it by hand works really well. With a Dremel you could accidentally go too deep or go in divots across the rim, etc, simply too much tool for the job.

Though, sorry, again I repeat I disagree with using a file, the damage on that rim is very slight no file is needed. I've had worse damage and never used a file. Like you said it's soft material and a file simply isn't needed, and especially a Dremel tool is not needed.

Lombard · Oct 28, 2015

I agree to skip the Dremel - too easy to lose control and trash the rim.

I would also add to finish with a Scotchbrite. The 0000 steel wool that
cdhbrad recommends is another option.

jetdog9 · Jun 11, 2018

Pardon the dredge, but figured why start a new thread when old ones exist.

Got caught in a rut a few days ago, pretty decent damage to brake track on both sides of a front rim... is fine file + 600 grit still the consensus for repair method?

blackfrancois · Jun 11, 2018

jetdog9 said:
is fine file + 600 grit still the consensus for repair method?

sounds good to me.

rm -rf · Jun 12, 2018

Some hardware stores sell individual sheets of wet & dry sandpaper.

I have a selection of grits on hand, they have lots of uses.

I'd use 320 or 400, either would be fine. Wrap a small piece of sandpaper around a flat scrap of wood. Just sand off the high spots, leave any gouges alone.

Years ago, I tried sanding down a misaligned rim joint that was causing a pulse. I found out how easy it is to get carried away and sand a dip into the brake track. Aluminum is soft and easy to sand, so don't sand too much!

If you need a file or 120 grit to fix major damage, you probably have a bent rim too. You might be able to bend it a little. Take the tire off first. But a bigger wobble might still pulse on braking, but you may be able to live with that.

rim damage

tvJefe

bikerjulio

dcgriz

ridesmasterx

MerlinAma

ericm979

looigi

November Dave

froze

robt57

froze

goodboyr

Srode

goodboyr

cdhbrad

froze

Lombard

jetdog9

blackfrancois

rm -rf

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