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journeyman

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Am trying to restore a steel Waterford 1200, to begin with the inside of the fork top tube (above the fork itself) has some rust that has formed - whats the best way for me to treat this rust, remove it and insure that it doesn't return? I suppose it forms from being open to air and water from the front wheel, just bought the frame and it wasn't very well taken care of.



jman
 
That's the steerer tube you're referring to. Just run some steel wool up and down the tube to remove as much of the rust as you can or, get a small steel brush that fits the tube, or get a steel brush with a long shank that fits your drill and the tube. The point is get as much of the rust off the surface as you can. Then, go to an auto parts store and buy a spray can of stuff that chemically combines with rust and turns it black. This will stop the rust from continuing. Then coat the inside of the tube with Frame Saver or boiled linseed oil. This will prevent new rust from starting. You should do the same thing with the frame. I highly recommend JP Weigle Frame Saver for all steel frames
 
Grease/oil

Mel Erickson said:
coat the inside of the tube with Frame Saver or boiled linseed oil. This will prevent new rust from starting. You should do the same thing with the frame. I highly recommend JP Weigle Frame Saver for all steel frames
Grease and/or oil work fine as well. I've greased the inside of steerer tubes for 40 years and not had any rust problems. On steel frames, I used to just shoot some aerosol lube (anything that leaves an oil residue) down the tubes with the same effect. Nothing wrong with frame saver type products, but I don't believe that they are necessary.
 
Kerry Irons said:
Grease and/or oil work fine as well. I've greased the inside of steerer tubes for 40 years and not had any rust problems. On steel frames, I used to just shoot some aerosol lube (anything that leaves an oil residue) down the tubes with the same effect. Nothing wrong with frame saver type products, but I don't believe that they are necessary.

Aerosol Lube??? Where can you find that?? Just curious..
 
Aerosol lubes

physasst said:
Aerosol Lube??? Where can you find that?? Just curious..
Well, just two examples would be TriFlow and WD-40. Note that I said you just need something that leaves behind an oil residue. I don't think of WD-40 as a good lube, but it does work to prevent rust. TriFlow certainly is a good lube, and works well too. I'm guessing that if I went to the lube section of any hardware store, auto store, or big-box "all mart" store, I would find a shelf of various kinds of spray lubes.
 
aerosols like corrosion block or boeshield T9 works well for the inside tube applications. they dry w/ a protective film.
I've used these in place of framesaver for years, though their coating is much thinner, so not sure if it's longevity is as good.
 
Grease is fine and you can easily get it into a steerer tube. I don't trust an aerosol lube for frame tubes. It doesn't coat the tubes long enough. I base this partly on my experience with guns (I know, they are different animals but frame tubing would probably be more susceptible to rust than firearms, on the general whole) and partly on my experience with bikes. I've had two frames of similar vintage. One I just sprayed some lube and one I used linseed oil. A few years later the linseed oil coated frame was pretty much rust free while the oiled frame had some light surface rust inside the seat tube. Different bikes, different tubing (obviously both steel) and not very scientific but it convinced me that a product like Frame Saver was worth the extra cost, which isn't much extra.
 
LPS rust inhibitor is another option. I used it when none of my LBS's had FrameSaver in stock. I've since tried FrameSaver. LPS is cheaper, but the coating isn't as thick. FrameSaver dries to a nice waxy finish.
 
In addition to the excellent advice already given, I would add....FENDER that bike! The reason why it rusted in there in the first place is because somebody rode it thru wet conditions without a fender. The front tire sprays dirty water right up the headtube, where it can sit unseen and set up rust. If anyone doesn't want to fender their aluminum or titanium framed bike, they'll get no argument from me. But any steel framed bike that is ever ridden thru water, needs to be fendered, for this reason alone.
 
correct me if I am wrong, but wasn't Boeshield originally developed to inhibit corrosion from both galvanic and contamination on the inside of aircraft skin?

http://boeshield.com/index.htm

click on aviation
 
THer's this stuff calle POR (Paint Over Rust)... I saw it on "Trucks". THe host of the show (Stacy David) was using it on a project. (then did a pice on it int the "gear for tucks segment")
Anywho, you paint right over the rust, and suposedly the rust will stop. I guess it works by cutting off the oxygen to the metal.
 
Visitor302 said:
THer's this stuff calle POR (Paint Over Rust)... I saw it on "Trucks". THe host of the show (Stacy David) was using it on a project. (then did a pice on it int the "gear for tucks segment")
Anywho, you paint right over the rust, and suposedly the rust will stop. I guess it works by cutting off the oxygen to the metal.

I would think there has to be more to it than that. Not saying that it doesn't work to stop rust, but wouldn't ALL good paint stop O2 from getting to the metal?

Also, if plain old oil and grease stopped rust, why did my oil pan rust though on my old van? It was plenty greasy ! Just asking.....
 
How it works

Touch0Gray said:
I would think there has to be more to it than that. Not saying that it doesn't work to stop rust, but wouldn't ALL good paint stop O2 from getting to the metal?

Also, if plain old oil and grease stopped rust, why did my oil pan rust though on my old van? It was plenty greasy ! Just asking.....
The difference is that the "paint over rust" stuff actually contains a reducing agent so that it chemically reacts with the rust. Once that is done, you can paint over the stuff, sort of like it was a primer. This is more effective than trying to mechanically remove the rust, since that task is nearly impossible. If there is ANY rust left, then the new paint won't bond well, which leads to peeling, and you know the rest. Any paint will develop pinholes with time and so lead to rust underneath unless there is some sort of protective barrier. This is what a good coat of primer is all about. I rode a steel frame for 10 years/60K miles and though there were numerous nicks in the pain, the primer job was so good that there never was a speck of rust. My brother-in-law still rides this bike, 9 years later, and still no rust.

So the paint over rust stuff is really just a primer, it is just the ticket for a surface where there already is rust.
 
WD40.....This is one place that WD40 will work on a bike. I had rust forming on the inside of the ST of my steel Colnago. I used WD40 and a gun cleaning rod with a brass brush. I could get down low in the tube, I could not think of any other way to do it. Worked great. I still do this periodically as this is a weak spot for my steel frame. You just have to make sure to get rid of the WD40 residue near the top of the ST or it will make your seat post slip.
 
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