[StillKeen]

I'm about to build up a nice old 753 steel peugeot frame. It's got 126mm spacing in the back, and I dont want to coldset the drops or anything, I'd just like to get a 9 spd hub that I can turn the axle down on.

I know CK 135mm mtb hubs have an endcap that comes out and is replaced with a smaller one to get down to 130mm for road use (until they released the road specific hubs this year), so just wondering if a Hope, CK or whatever hub there is, has an axle that I could pull out and take a few mm's off each end (or all off one end, have to think about the chainline) and then run 9 spd in an old steel frame (I have 2 road 9'spds already and one mtb ... so want to stick to it if I can).

Thanks

 

[rdolson]

I wouldn't bother. I run both 130mm and 126mm rear hubs in my '81 Bianchi with no problems at all. You are only spreading the dropouts 2mm on each side. That's really nothing. When I put the 126mm in, it drops in place, when I put the 130mm in, just a little outward pull, and I mean LITTLE, and the 130mm slides right in.

 

[sokyroadie]

I wouldn't bother. I run both 130mm and 126mm rear hubs in my '81 Bianchi with no problems at all. You are only spreading the dropouts 2mm on each side. That's really nothing. When I put the 126mm in, it drops in place, when I put the 130mm in, just a little outward pull, and I mean LITTLE, and the 130mm slides right in.

+1
I have a mid 80's Keith Lippy frame that I run 10s Campy on and I was amazed at how easily a 130mm wheel slid into 126mm dropouts.

Jeff

 

[StillKeen]

Thanks.I've just read a bit about 753 being thin and needing care, and if it is as simple as switching a Chris King 135mm to a 130mm, then may as well (I have access to a machine shop). I just need to confirm some hubs that have aluminium axels that work like the CK ones ...

So far the hubs to look at appear to be Hope and CK, although it'll need some proper looking into it. Possibly Phil Wood, as their fixie hubs come in lots of widths ... might email them next week.

Thanks

 

[MShaw]

If you go with Shimano hubs, all ya gotta do is take some spacers out. Just sayin

M

 

[Ligero]

If you take a Shimano White Industries hub and put a Campy non drive side axle end cap you will end up with 126.5mm spacing.

 

[StillKeen]

I have a set of Ultegra 6500 wheels that I could use. So I can remove the 4.8mm spacer and it'll be near enough to 126mm, what about chainline?

Today i've started to think I wouldnt mind building it up as a 1x5 bike, so I guess then I could choose which side of the cassette to put what mix of spacers to get the ideal chainline for 5 cogs aligned with the inner ring on the front ..

I was prepared to buy a new hub for this bike, but using my old (prob only done 500 miles) ultegra wheels, that's a much better option for my wallet.

 

[ergott]

You can't just remove spacers. The axle will be too long. You have to shorten the axle or swap in an axle for 126mm hubs (134mm actual length). They are easily found from the local bike shop, ebay or similar. You can easily find 126mm hubs NOS.

-Eric

 

[StillKeen]

The frame finally arrived today, and is 126mm spacing (for a while I thought I might be lucky). Given I've got the 130mm ultegra wheel, I'm going to pull the axel off and have it turned down 2mm and end, and rebuild without a spacer or two.

Ive gone off building a wheel due to cost and the fact that for a little work (rebuild hub after pulling axel out to have turned down), I'll have a perfect setup that I can also use to put 9 speed on the bike with down tube shifters if I later decide that 1x5 isnt for me.

I also inherited a set of cranks, rear deraileur and 8 speed cassette yesterday, which will hopefully all fit in nicely.

 

[mpapet]

The frame finally arrived today, and is 126mm spacing (for a while I thought I might be lucky). Given I've got the 130mm ultegra wheel, I'm going to pull the axel off and have it turned down 2mm and end, and rebuild without a spacer or two.

You are fine having the dropouts spread a bit with 753. Bending (cold setting) won't do anything to the finish either. I used to ride an old 753 in the dirt in the 1980's and bent it all kinds of different ways and it bent back just fine. It's not that fragile.

Doing stuff with the rear hub just isn't necessary. But if you insist, what you do is remove a spacer and get the wheel centered again with the new spacing. Then have the shop grind off the end of the axle enough so the QR works. First time the hub is rebuilt, the threads on the ground-away axle end will be 'cleaned up' when the threaded bits are removed. Not mechanically perfect, but totally functional.

 

[ergott]

But if you insist, what you do is remove a spacer and get the wheel centered again with the new spacing. Then have the shop grind off the end of the axle enough so the QR works. First time the hub is rebuilt, the threads on the ground-away axle end will be 'cleaned up' when the threaded bits are removed. Not mechanically perfect, but totally functional.

Yeah, don't forget about redishing the wheel. The rim will be off center when you remove the spacer and axle material.

-Eric