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Chain Recommendations for Campagnolo Chorus UD 10 Cassette?

16K views 33 replies 13 participants last post by  kenreau  
#1 ·
Greetings,

I am in need of replacement chain recommendations for a Campagnolo 2008 Chorus Ultra-Drive 10 Speed Cassette 12-25 with Centaur RD to Veloce FD.

I'm a Campy rookie on a learning curve and have read a number of older posts (2006 year+/-) of people recommending SRAM or Ultegra 9 Speed chains. Curious if this is still the consensus? Or, have the Campy chains improved in recent years to the point I should just stick with them? My primary concerns are smooth shifting with a reasonable price tag (ie I don't feel obligated to spend the $$$ if not warranted)

Thanks
Kenreau
 
#4 ·
eddie m said:
i've used KMC and SRAM. They both work fine. If you use Campy or shimano, get a SRAM connecting link. It's cheaper and more reliable than those special piins.

em
Thanks guys!

What am I missing? - I don't see any information regarding KMC chains. Nothing in the Product Reviews or Manufacturers index. Also, for my 10 speed cassette set up, any particular model, width, etc. to look for?

Thanks again
Kenreau
 
#6 ·
spookyload said:
For the quietest drivetrain, stick with campy. With the powerlink, it still isn't as quiet as with just campy. How many of us really take the chain off to need the powerlink? Just saying...I would get a chorus chain.
I've found that KMC and SRAM chains are just as quiet as the Centaur chain that came with the bike. FWIW when I bought that bike I had the shop switch out the crank for a compact, so they shortened the chain and rejoined it with a SRAM link. It's not about taking the chain off, it's getting the chain on in the first place. You can't join a Campy chain reliably without the Campy tool that peens the pin. The tool costs as much as a lifetime supply of SRAM chains.
My riding buddy who is a USCF mechanic uses SRAM chains, which might be the only non-Campy part I've ever seen on any of his bikes in the 25 years I've known him.

em
 
#7 ·
Why not replace both cassette and chain at same time?

How old is your cog set? You don't want a miss match, or your new chain will slip on the old cassette. I'd go with the Campy chain and skip the special pin thingy and use a chain tool. And of course you'll need a ten speed chain.

Also Campy stuff can be repaired. Lot's of other brands go in the waste basket if something breaks.:mad2:

Get to know a pro shop that knows Campy. Guys that love Campy love to talk about it.
 
#8 ·
eddie m said:
I've found that KMC and SRAM chains are just as quiet as the Centaur chain that came with the bike. FWIW when I bought that bike I had the shop switch out the crank for a compact, so they shortened the chain and rejoined it with a SRAM link. It's not about taking the chain off, it's getting the chain on in the first place. You can't join a Campy chain reliably without the Campy tool that peens the pin. The tool costs as much as a lifetime supply of SRAM chains.
My riding buddy who is a USCF mechanic uses SRAM chains, which might be the only non-Campy part I've ever seen on any of his bikes in the 25 years I've known him.

em
Excellent info, thanks! Would you be able to identify which SRAM model he uses? I did a quick search and see the SRAM PC-1030, PC-1070 and PC-1090. The detail info mentions the chains are compatible with both SRAM and Shimano 10-speed drivetrains (no mention of Campy), but from what I've been reading now, it appears the all the 10-speed chains are interchangeable.

Thanks again
Kenreau
 
#9 ·
Facts...

Even the cheapest Veloce 10 chain will last longer than the other brands mentioned. Campy chains always have lasted longer and are not in need of improvement. About the only downside is no master link. You can buy KMC links separately, that are made for the Campy chain and work adequately.

If a master link is not used, then the special Campy joining pin is a must. It can be installed with an ordinary chain tool, as long as there is no tension on the chain when it's installed.
 
#10 ·
not quite right....

The special pin can be installed with an ordinary chain tool. There just has to be no tension on the chain when it's installed.

Tossing a cassette without first installing a new chain and checking for chain skip may be wasting perfectly good cassette life. Never toss a cassette without first testing it with a new chain.

Better yet, use 3-4 chains in a rotation. If done properly, you will never get new-chain skip and the cassette will last as long as all of the chains in the rotation. You can also use each chain longer by not tossing it to protect the cassette from wear.
 
#11 ·
C-40 said:
E
If a master link is not used, then the special Campy joining pin is a must. It can be installed with an ordinary chain tool, as long as there is no tension on the chain when it's installed.
The latest Campy chain tool peens the end of the pin. You can't do that with an ordinary tool.
Joining a 10s chain is too hard for most people. Even some of the local shops around here use KMC or SRAM links when they install 10s Campy chains.

em
 
#12 ·
kenreau said:
Excellent info, thanks! Would you be able to identify which SRAM model he uses? I did a quick search and see the SRAM PC-1030, PC-1070 and PC-1090. The detail info mentions the chains are compatible with both SRAM and Shimano 10-speed drivetrains (no mention of Campy), but from what I've been reading now, it appears the all the 10-speed chains are interchangeable.

Thanks again
Kenreau
I think I'm using the PC1070, or whatever costs about $30 on the internets. I usually get the cheapest chain I can find with a silver finish. I don't need all the expensive drilled out light stuff, and I think the silver (nickel) finish resists rust a little better, but they all probably work about the same.

em
 
#13 ·
eddie m said:
The latest Campy chain tool peens the end of the pin. You can't do that with an ordinary tool.
Joining a 10s chain is too hard for most people. Even some of the local shops around here use KMC or SRAM links when they install 10s Campy chains.

em
The Campy chain tool for 11 SPEED peens the pin. For the 10 spd chains there is no peening required. The pin can be installed with a regular non-Campy chain tool, just follow the directions but don't put the chain on the front chainrings, leave it draped over the BB so there is no tension on it.

Alternatively, one can join a Campy UN chain with a SRAM 10 spd Powerlock. Tool-free and simple.
 
#14 ·
lbs

eddie m said:
T...Joining a 10s chain is too hard for most people. Even some of the local shops around here...
Sounds more like Local Bull Sh!t. Don't think I would want someone wrenching on my bike that is not smart enough to properly use a chain tool and has to resort to master links for installation.

For the OP - get yourself a Campy chain. They work well and last a long time. No need for Record, go with Veloce or Centaur and save some money.
 
#15 ·
I've got 10-speed Campy on 4 bikes and have tried a bunch of combinations. Best I've found has been an original Campy chain with the Wipperman Connex link. The Campy chains are more quiet AND durable than the others (imho), and the Wipperman link seems to work better with Campy 10-speed than the alternatives.
 
#16 ·
unfortunately...

The Wipperman link is not a very good fit with a Campy chain. The side clearance is a lot greater than it should be. A SRAM 10 powerlock will fit better.

I agree that the connex link is the best, but Wipperman doesn't intend for it to be used with other chain brands. It fits Shimano or KMC chains better, since they are slightly wider across the inner plates.
 
#18 ·
C-40 said:
The Wipperman link is not a very good fit with a Campy chain. The side clearance is a lot greater than it should be. A SRAM 10 powerlock will fit better.

I agree that the connex link is the best, but Wipperman doesn't intend for it to be used with other chain brands. It fits Shimano or KMC chains better, since they are slightly wider across the inner plates.
Odd. Like I said, I've got them on 4 10-speed (Campy) bikes and have found them to be the best option out there...rode one today, another yesterday, and a different one the day before...never had any issues across ~ 6,000 miles on the 4 drivetrains. (ymmv)
 
#20 ·
well...

JChasse said:
Odd. Like I said, I've got them on 4 10-speed (Campy) bikes and have found them to be the best option out there...rode one today, another yesterday, and a different one the day before...never had any issues across ~ 6,000 miles on the 4 drivetrains. (ymmv)
Get a set of feeler gages. You'll find the clearance between the inner and outer plates to be far more than the rest of the chain. I do something similar with 11 speed, but I've already seen evidence of the inner plates wearing a substantial groove into the master link, due to the sloppy fit.
 
#21 ·
C-40 said:
Get a set of feeler gages. You'll find the clearance between the inner and outer plates to be far more than the rest of the chain. I do something similar with 11 speed, but I've already seen evidence of the inner plates wearing a substantial groove into the master link, due to the sloppy fit.
I believe you. Not to start an all-out debate, but i don’t need feeler gauges to tell me that I’ve been running this setup on one bike since 2008 without any issues, and that it’s working better for me than the same chain with a SRAM or Interlock link. But maybe I'll try a SRAM again next time around...
 
#22 ·
eddie m said:
You can't join a Campy chain reliably without the Campy tool that peens the pin. The tool costs as much as a lifetime supply of SRAM chains.
Campy tools are expensive. You are right about that. You don't need to use it however. I have used the Park Chain tool on 20+ Campy chains and have never had a problem. There is no mystery with Campy that most people hear about second hand info.
 
#23 ·
C-40 said:
Even the cheapest Veloce 10 chain will last longer than the other brands mentioned. Campy chains always have lasted longer and are not in need of improvement. About the only downside is no master link. You can buy KMC links separately, that are made for the Campy chain and work adequately.

If a master link is not used, then the special Campy joining pin is a must. It can be installed with an ordinary chain tool, as long as there is no tension on the chain when it's installed.
Ditto........I can not believe anyone would use any thing but a Campy chain on a Campy drive train. I've been riding on Campy for over 20 years and have been using their 10 speed chains since they came out. Campy chains last 3-4 times longer than other chains. I can get 12,000 or more mile out of my chains.

Buying a Campy Record chain will save you a lot of money. Sure it will cost you $35-45, depending on where you get it but it pay you back and put change back in your pocket over its life time.

Don't be penny wise and pound foolish.....buy the best chain there is.....Campy Record!
 
#24 ·
JChasse said:
I believe you. Not to start an all-out debate, but i don’t need feeler gauges to tell me that I’ve been running this setup on one bike since 2008 without any issues, and that it’s working better for me than the same chain with a SRAM or Interlock link. But maybe I'll try a SRAM again next time around...

Why do you need to remove your chain after installing it anyways? Cleaning a chain while it is on the bike is easy enough and no big deal. I can clean my chain spotless, along with the rest of the drive train, in less than 10 minutes without having to remove it.

IMO, those links are a solution without a problem.
 
#25 ·
Dinosaur said:
I've been using Veloce cassettes with KMC chains for the past few years and they work fine. If you want to have a removable link the Wipperman Campy Connex works fine with the KMC's. For info I use the KMC DX10SC, which goes for around $30.
Why would you use a Wipperman link when the KMC DX10SC comes with a dedicated, reuseable master link.

While I might agree with C-40 that Campy chains will generally outlast about everything else out there, I have been using KMC chains on all my bikes (DX10SC on two 10s Campy drivetrains, the X9 on my 8s Record, and the 1/8" stainless on my fixed and SS) for years. They are all dead quiet, shift beautifully on the geared bikes, and the longevity is certainly acceptable - as well as the price.