I just bought a Park Tool chain cleaner and I'm wondering what would be a good and cheap degreaser to use in it. Is any citrus degreaser from the hardware store ok to use ?
Degreaser for chain cleaner
ToiletSiphon
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I just bought a Park Tool chain cleaner and I'm wondering what would be a good and cheap degreaser to use in it. Is any citrus degreaser from the hardware store ok to use ?
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6,573 Posts
That would probably be fine. Other options are rubbing alcohol or odorless mineral spirits. My experience with chain cleaner devices is
1. They make a huge mess
2. They always break
I prefer to just wipe it down with a rag
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5,238 Posts
Chain cleaners suck. Get a removable chain link, a pickle jar and screw on top, and soak/shake the chain in mineral spirits (which you can let settle and then environmentally-friendly reuse). I usually use two jars, one for an initial cleaning and one for a final cleaning. Then I lube the chain, wipe, and hang to dry. The chain should function like new, assuming you've checked stretch. I rotate two chains on a bike, you could rotate more but I ride too many different bikes to make that feasible for me. Using Campy chains I get a lot of miles out of chains, I don't actually keep track anymore but at least 6-8000.
I would add that this doesn't need to be done frequently as it completely strips the chain of any lube. It's a very thorough cleaning.
In between thorough cleanings, it's sufficient to just wipe down the chain every few rides with OMS and a rag and regular lubing.
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22,165 Posts
Agree with others: if you can return the chain cleaner for a refund, do it.
Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:
1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag. If there is gunk on the cogs, floss between them with a rag wet with OMS.
2 – shift to the big ring and the smallest cog and drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube.
4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag.
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty
Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to remove the chain or the cassette to clean it , and no separate cleaning is ever required. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.
No lube is "perfect." A bright shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink/home brew is the best compromise among commercial lubes. Other people have different opinions.
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16,359 Posts
Those chain cleaner things are the most useless devices ever. If you keep the chain properly lubed and wiped down it won't ever get dirty. If it does, a good brush and whatever you want to use as a cleaner (simple green, citrus degreaser, park chainbrite, mineral spirits, diesel fuel...whatever) you can clean it as much as it needs in no time. Return that silly thing if you can.
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7,168 Posts
I like my cleaner thingy. After a grimy wet ride I pull it out, load up with simple green and let those brushes do their magic. I dump the simple green in the drain and fill it with water and rinse it off. Then lube with WD40 and wipe down. All good.
occasionally
occasionally
but most of the time
"Leave chain cleaner alone"
Zep citrus degreaser is cheap enough.
Personally, I don't like using those chain cleaners. Too much of a mess.
If you keep up with keeping your chain clean, you won't need it, even if you use a wet lube and Mountain bike... not difficult to keep the chain clean.
When I do need to a heavy duty cleaning, I remove the chain and soak it in an old pickle jar... shake.... pour, add new degreaser.... etc... then rinse and relube, then put on the bike. That's during the ski season, where I'm not riding.
they do make a mess.
If you use a wippperman quick link, it's efforless (almost) to take your chain off for at thorough cleaning.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner that I got for $30 and use a 4:1 SimpleGreen diluted solution for 10 min. It comes out nice and clean. I rinse, blow off, put back on, and relube. 20 minutes or so of my time
What part of your chain has plastic housing?
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WD-40 is not a lubricant. It helps, but isn't nearly as good as a chain specific lubricant, and only marginaly cheaper.
Actually, WD-40 can be used as the degreaser. Allow to dry overnight, then lube with an appropriate lube.
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11,227 Posts
WD-40 is a lubricant, though a "light duty" lubricant, with its petroleum base oil in its formualtion. Yes, it was designed as a water displacer, so it displaces water and replaces that water with a thin oil film.
WD-40 also has a bicycle specific line of chain lubes also, if it makes you sleep better at night
Yes, it has a high amount of solvents in its formulation.
Then again, lots of chain lube products have solvents in its formulation, so you can just lube, wait, and wipe. Homebrew chain lube recipes include the use of odorless mineral spirits, a great solvent.
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