I have an Ulterga 6600 10 speed chain and its at 2500 miles now. There is some stretch but not even 1/16 of an inch yet. Did you get a chance to measure the chain yourself?

 

No, but I have the Park tool and will get in the habit of checking

thank you

 

My DuraAce 10-speed chains last about 10-12k miles. This is in Texas, not much rain, lubing at the first sign of noise from the chain. Racing and fast training rides, 185lbs rider.

 

My understanding is every 1500 miles is recommended depending on the type of riding you do. 10K-12K seems way extreme but if you can do it, more power to you. Are you a larger rider and do you climb a lot of hills? If so, then 1,000 miles wouldn't be unreasonable. I'm 6'3" 215 lbs. and mine usually starts showing signs around 15-1600 miles eventhough I stretch it to 2,000 miles. That is with a fair amount of hills and I only ride those bikes in good weather. I ride my 9 speed road bike in adverse weather.. Your riding style can cause that too. One guy I know has to have his replaced at less than 1,000 miles. He climbs a lot of mountain roads and he's 190 lbs.

 

Way longer than that. With regular cleaning and lubing, and without chronic cross-chaining, you should be able to get 4-5K easy. Did you take it in because of chain skipping problems, or did they just volunteer this information?

Off topic, but maybe a case in point....I took my car to Jiffy Lube once because I didn't have time to take it to the dealer or change the oil myself. This kid comes into the waiting room while my car is on the rack. "Sir, you have severe sludge build-up in your engine. You need an engine flush. Can we do that for you today". I know engines, and I know that a car with less than 30K highway miles on it, that has regular 5K oil changes, and no water contamination, doesn't have sludge. I know the kid was just doing what management told him to do, so I just said I know there is no sludge in that car, and asked him to finish the oil change. It bugs me to know that 15 min later he was probably doing the same thing to some soccer mom who didn't know any better, and got the sale. I'll never use them again.

 

The better question is "How long is a piece of string?" (Thanks Kerry Irons)

There is no right or wrong answer. Different riders wear chains at different levels. If your a 140lb person riding nothing but flats, then a chain will last longer than say a 240 lb person riding nothing but hills.

The best way is to measure the chain at normal intervals.

I don't like using the chain checkers - along with others on the forum - because most chain checkers show elongation on a brand new chain.

The easiest way to check a chain is to measure it with a 12 in ruler - preferably one that is longer than 12 inches to get a solid reading - Measuring out 24 links (pin to pin) is 12 inches. If a chain is 12 1/16 or under, chain is fine. If its 12 1/16 to 12 1/8 chain is in the area of needing replacement before increasing wear on cassettes and chain rings.

 

Rain or no rain, I always swap out for a new chain betw 4k & 6k miles. 10k to 12k seems like a stretch to me (no pun intended), because other expensive parts like cogs, rings, and pulleys will wear to accommodate the worn chain. I guess you can say the chain is the weakest link. No pun intended.

 

Rain or no rain, I always swap out for a new chain betw 4k & 6k miles. 10k to 12k seems like a stretch to me (no pun intended), because other expensive parts like cogs, rings, and pulleys will wear to accommodate the worn chain. I guess you can say the chain is the weakest link. No pun intended.

Hey....only one unintended pun per post allowed. Now if you'd intended them......:wink5:

 

I have a new Ultegra triple 6703. The LBS measured chain wear and replaced the chain after less than 1000 miles. I rarely ride in the rain and lube the chain every other ride. How long should a 10 speed chain last?

thank you

I think if you cross chain or not and how much torque you put out are bigger factors than that.
If you cross chain and have some decent power and ride up tough hill hard and often (thus need a lot of torque) 1000 sounds possible but otherwise it's a little fishy.

I usually get about 2500 and I'm not pushing it to the limit. I'd probably be considered over cautious.

 

I'm not a heavy rider at 155 and I switch mine between 1,500 and 2,000 miles. I will admit I like riding my bike, maintaining it is a whole different story and it rarely happens. But I've had skipping at 1,000 miles before so its not entirely impossible. If its a reputable lbs I highly doubt they would lie, its not like the mark-up on a chain is that much. Most likely they could be doing you a favor to help you save your cassette.

 

If well stored out of humidity and properly oiled, potentially a thousand+ years. I'd use that synthetic lube that doesn't get gummy after 250 years or so though. In use is a whole other subject that C-40 can cover.

Of course we follow this with which lube, how to clean and how often. WD-40 FTW!

 

If its a reputable lbs I highly doubt they would lie, its not like the mark-up on a chain is that much.

Mark up is much higher than you think.

 

I also get over 10K miles
I use this, but back it up with a shop ruler.

Item # CC-2
Chain Checker
To alleviate poor shifting and uneven drive train wear, manufacturers recommend chain replacement before rear cog replacement. Now you can quickly and accurately determine the wear and stretch of any chain with the Park Tool Chain Checker. Simply insert the Chain Checker’s pins into two links, press the swing arm gauge tight, and then check the gauge window for an accurate reading.

The CC-2 is 10 and 11 speed compatible. For the modern 9 and 10 speed chains, replace chain at or just before the 0.75% readings. For the 11 speed chain, replace at or just before the 0.5% reading.

 

search....

Try a search. This topic was recently discussed at great length, including why a Park chain checker is a poor tool for measuring wear. It will show a Shimano chain to have .25% elongation when new and when it says 1%, the true elongation is probably less than half that amount.

I'd quit going to that LBS since they are screwing you.

How many miles you can get from a chain does vary a lot. I spent a lot of time testing chain life and got the poorest results with a Shimano 7800 chain. A cheap KMC was a little better, but Campy chains will elongate at at much slower rate than either one.

Even applying a quality lube every 100 miles, it would only take me 3500-4000 miles to reach a true .5% elongation with Shimano or KMC chains. I only weigh 135-140 and never ride in the rain, but the roads in the Colorado mountains can be gritty. Riding a lot in the mountains is also bound to increase chain wear due to the high chain tension.

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=238705

 

I used to replace chains at the 1st of the year. This year I measured, shrugged my shoulders, & said, "Why."

 

I used to replace chains at the 1st of the year. This year I measured, shrugged my shoulders, & said, "Why."

Have you priced DA7900 chainrings?

 

As a part time gunsmith, former auto mechanic, and general service hog, I clean and lube chain after every ride. I use the top of the line SRAM chain, and ride the Natchez Trace, great road with several long, gentle pulls. I weigh 165, and get 1600-1800 miles on chain. The old ones still gauge okay, but the new ones shift much better, and chainrings/cassette still look new after five chains.

I catch the chains on sale at Amazon and buy several at a time. Piggyback order get me free shipping.

 

well....

As a part time gunsmith, former auto mechanic, and general service hog, I clean and lube chain after every ride. I use the top of the line SRAM chain, and ride the Natchez Trace, great road with several long, gentle pulls. I weigh 165, and get 1600-1800 miles on chain. The old ones still gauge okay, but the new ones shift much better, and chainrings/cassette still look new after five chains.

I catch the chains on sale at Amazon and buy several at a time. Piggyback order get me free shipping.

You're most likely changing your chain far more often than necessary. particularly if you're using a chain checker to measure the wear. I'd be disappointed if I didn't get twice the mileage. You're spending far more money on chains, in an attempt to protect a cassette that's not that expensive.

Alternating the use of several chains, you should be able to get 10-15,000 miles from a cassette and only use 3-4 chains, not 6-8.

 

Rider performance has a big influence on chain wear. I would wear chains very quickly before I learned about spin vs mashing... and cross chaining has also been discussed.
As a former bike shop employee, I know that the chain measuring tools can be "made to lie"

Did you actually see the shop hand measure the chain? Do you trust your mechanic?

 

I am probably changing out chains more than needed, but the improved shift quality and low cost per mile of cycling makes it worthwhile to me.

 

There's no meaningful way to compare chain life one rider to the next, as there are too many variables.

Chain life is affected by rider weight, average speed, terrain, sprocket selection, weather, lubrication and chain quality. A 140# rider in Kansas who rides at 16mph can get 10 or more times the chain life of a 185# rider averaging 20mph in Pennsylvania.

Lubrication is also a factor, especially at the higher chain loads that more speed or hill climbing cause.

That said 1,000 miles is at the very low end of the range, and I'd consider it unacceptable. 2-4,000 miles is more typical.

Before you accept that a chain is shot at 1,000 miles measure it for wear, but not with one of those chain checking tools which tend to read high. Measure it over 12" and see if 24 links measure 12-1/16" or more vs. the nominal 12".

If so, your chain is indeed shot, but you put some effort into figuring out why unless you weigh 200#s or more and routinely climb steep hills at over 20 mph.

 

I just changed out a Shimano 105 10 speed cassette and the chain with 3400 miles on each. Luckily, the chain rings are not bad at all. For the record, I weigh 175 lbs. I am going to up my maintenance and see if it makes any difference. There is so much sandy grit on Florida roads.

 

Get Chain-L No. 5 lubricant and your chain and cogs will last much longer, drivetrain will run quieter, and you will not to lube anywhere near as often as you are now. Read the many glowing reviews and/or do a search and you will find many endorsements.

 

I'm a big believer in C-40's chain rotation method. Doing this can easily double or triple the length of time you can ride before replacing chains, cogs, and rings.

Lubing chains is a more controversial topic. Although there is a strong home brew contingent here, I find it easier to apply prolink every 300-400 miles. The key to prolink is letting it dry for 12 hours before using the chain. As I am OCD I also clean the chain before I do this by placing it in a glass jar with a solvent and shaking the jar vigorously. This is easier if you use a reusable link.

 

How tall are my kids going to be?