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aclinjury

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
ok wheel experts, I have a wheel with a 21h rim (rim brake). Wheel is laced 12:9, 2x on the DS.
I want to replace this hub with one of the highend hub like Chris King or DT. Problem is, CK and DT don't make 21h hub, so my question is, will a 24h or 28h hub work? I think whatever hub I get, I will need to get one that will allow the 12:9, 2x lacing pattern.

And does it matter if I get a hub that uses j-bend or straightpull spokes? I think j-bend hubs allow for a slightly better bracing angle right?
 
The only thing I could see working is a semi-radial where you would skip each other spoke on the ND side. I've seen this done before, usually requiring a thicker gauge spoke for the ND side. Being that the rim has an odd number of holes, I assume this is what the rim was made for? In that case, I guess a common 28 hole hub could work, but if I remember the wheel I saw like that had straight-pull spokes. When ever I've done semi-radial, I've always gone with the ND side as heads-out, which looks better, but probably gives you less of a bracing angle.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
yes this rim is from a wheel with a purpose built propietary hub with 12:9 spoke hole patter, straightpull, 2x on NDS, radial on DS.
The hub has a defect and has to be replaced completely. Manufactuer is willing to replace the hub for me.
But I don't want this hub anymore, I want a DT or Chris King and am willing to spend the money to get this done. I don't care for straightpull, j-bend is just fine with me.
I just need to know if this is possible and if so what hub drilling to get
 
so no go huh?
Hmm might have to look into Bitex hubs then since they have hubs specific for 21h rims
Nothing wrong with Bitex hubs. @tlg can vouch for those as he has some thousands of miles on them. They have the anti-bite splines on the freehubs to prevent gouging into the aluminum. BHS sells them.
 
Good luck w/ this one. I'd toss the rim and move on.
Any rim can be made to work with any hub. It will be a terrible kludge with all kinds of odd spoke lengths and uneven spoke tension and thus not likely a durable wheel. But it can be made to work. Pointless and a waste of time and money, but it can be made to work. Just because something is possible doesn't make it a good idea. What cxwrench said.
 
Any rim can be made to work with any hub. It will be a terrible kludge with all kinds of odd spoke lengths and uneven spoke tension and thus not likely a durable wheel. But it can be made to work. Pointless and a waste of time and money, but it can be made to work. Just because something is possible doesn't make it a good idea. What cxwrench said.
It can be made to work. It cannot be made to work well.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Nothing wrong with Bitex hubs. @tlg can vouch for those as he has some thousands of miles on them. They have the anti-bite splines on the freehubs to prevent gouging into the aluminum. BHS sells them.
Thank you. I'll be looking into Bitex as an option. I'm not averse to using Chinese stuff like Bitex and Novatec if the big brands dont have what I need. My Powertap G3 hub (which is a Novatec) has lasted me thousands of training miles and still going strong.
 
Thank you. I'll be looking into Bitex as an option. I'm not averse to using Chinese stuff like Bitex and Novatec if the big brands dont have what I need. My Powertap G3 hub (which is a Novatec) has lasted me thousands of training miles and still going strong.
Technically Taiwan. Most Shimano products are made there too except for Dura-Ace which is made in Japan. If you're looking for USA made, White Industries is about all that's left.
 
ok wheel experts, I have a wheel with a 21h rim (rim brake). Wheel is laced 12:9, 2x on the DS.
I want to replace this hub with one of the highend hub like Chris King or DT. Problem is, CK and DT don't make 21h hub, so my question is, will a 24h or 28h hub work? I think whatever hub I get, I will need to get one that will allow the 12:9, 2x lacing pattern.

And does it matter if I get a hub that uses j-bend or straightpull spokes? I think j-bend hubs allow for a slightly better bracing angle right?
I think I read Phil Wood does custom drilling. And it wouldn't hurt to ask other USA makers like King, White and Industry 9 if they'd do a one-off for you.
Probably is even if they would do it usually, now-a-days most bike companies can't really keep up with the demand demand so they'd probably say not or you'd need to wait forever.
 
Please educate me. I've never even heard of a 21H rim or hub. What kind of rim is it, and what sort of contraption did these wheels come on? I'd love to see a pic. And you meant to say the spokes are radial on NDS and 2x on DS, correct? And lastly, why, why would one want a 21H setup?
 
I think I read Phil Wood does custom drilling. And it wouldn't hurt to ask other USA makers like King, White and Industry 9 if they'd do a one-off for you.
And I'm sure this path would be really cheap too. NOT! I cannot imagine that the rim he has is so precious that it would be worth having a custom drilled hub fabricated just so he could continue to use the rim. But hey, people do all kinds of things :)
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Please educate me. I've never even heard of a 21H rim or hub. What kind of rim is it, and what sort of contraption did these wheels come on? I'd love to see a pic. And you meant to say the spokes are radial on NDS and 2x on DS, correct? And lastly, why, why would one want a 21H setup?
Here’s the wheel. It’s from a Chinese brand Winspace. It’s a great wheelset. Carbon spokes. Hambini tested these wheels as the most aero wheels in the 50mm class. They’re light, just over 1300g for a 50mm clinchers. They kick ass in crits, kick ass on climbs. These wheels perform better than the likes of Zipps and Enves. At $920, there is simply no better race oriented wheelset on the market. I know a lot of crit guys using them, in either 50mm or 65mm.

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Discussion starter · #18 ·
Well to update my situation. I was able to resolved all issues with this rear wheel by taking apart the rear hub and re-lubing everything inside. The root cause of all the issues was... almost completely nonexistent grease from the manufacturer. What little grease was in there was dried to a sticky paste. I would say it was a QC issue and not any inherent design defect that I originally thought.

And no, I would not have gone with any custom drilled hub from CK, that would be an expensive route, and besides thee Asian manufacturers have all the odd hub drillings covered.
 
Thanks for posting those pics acl. My head is hurting looking at your pics and trying to figure out what spokes come from what side....for every seven spokes, four come out of one side, three out of the other..... and I've also been drinking tonight....
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
^ I figured I'd post them pics since you're probably no the only one wondering: "why would he do this?"
These rims are filament wound, they light and aero, and they look badass.
When i posted this thread, I had figured that if there was an inherit flaw with the hub, then I'd go with a CK or DT hub with Pillar Aero 1432 black spokes to make the rear wheel somewhat resemble the original wheel, but with a quality rear hub. And I have an affinit for CK buzzing sound.
Anyway, I'm just ecstatic I was able to fix my issues by overhauling the OEM hub, because them carbon spokes are badass looking!
 
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