Personally I think that guy did a great job and the bike looks awesome. I'm sure there might be some downside to this, but I really like the look of it and you can't beat the price of electrical tape.

 

Why would you do that? It adds lots of useless weight and how the heck do you wash that without risking the tape detaching? I don't get it.

 

Careful with electrical tape. Being an electrican, I can tell you first hand that stuff turns to a black, sticky mess from hell in a short amount of time. The glue they use on the various kinds of tape (yes, there are many types with different uses) is some serious stuff, when it turns to goo, good luck getting it off. It won't even come off of your hands.

 

^^^^^Concur - I'd like to see a picture of the bike in the summer when the tape starts to move and dust/dirt/sand is stuck in the goo.

What happened to sandpaper and a can of Krylon?

 

i was thinking of doing this because I ended up with the silver frame since there are no no more black frames. i missed buying the last 1 in stock buy minutes! bad timing and I wanted the black frame so badly, i thought this would be the next best thing.

 

If you often chain your bike to signs, parking meters, and posts the tape makes sense. It protects the bike and also hides it from thieves. I can also so it as a form of "art work" if multiple colors are used. But to change the color to black seems a bit odd.

I use electrical tape as a chain stay protector for mountain and CX and it holds up and cleans up fine. It is a mess when you remove it though.

 

because i don't like the silver frame, but i wanted a good fast commuter frame that would be as responsive as a race bike.

 

paint it black

 

do this. the tape will start to come undone and leave a sticky mess everywhere while your bike looks more and more like a ragged mummy.

 

Hi

I plan to do this on my single speed Langster. is it advised?

Cannondale Capo SS

If cost is not an issue, have you considered a sprayed-in bedliner coating?


Like Rhino Lining?

 

Plasti-Dip

If you are worried about theft, place Huffy decals on the down tube.

 

...or Specialized, Trek, Cervelo, Canondale, etc.

 

The funny part about that linked thread - the guy who tried to make the bike less attractive to thieves... it looked much better after his tape job.

But, I agree with the others - taping it would be a bad idea. If there's ever been a candidate for a rattle can it's this. You don't even have to disassemble the bike. Just take off the major components - seatpost, stem and fork, brakes, chain, wheels and cranks... okay, sort of disassemble the bike. But leave the headset, and BB.

1. Scuff the frame with 1000 grit paper
2. Follow ^that^ with 2000 grit
3. Wash the frame with dish washing soap
4. Rinse very well
5. Rinse again
6. Dry the frame - spin it, flip it, dry it, shake it, dry... then hang it for a day... 'cause you didn't get all the water out
7. Wipe the frame with Acetone
8. Lay down 1 light coat - shooting from 8"-10" - every 3 minutes.
9. Finish with 4 coats
10. Let dry 2 hours
11. Flip the frame upside down (or right side up) and notice how much you missed
12. Repeat step 8.

It will look like a factory paint job. Okay, not Klein's factory circa 1990, but it'll look very good. I've painted Jeeps, bikes, bumpers... tons of stuff this way.

Example:
This Jeep was gray:

 

These electricians need to HTFU. Glue comes off with any reasonable solvent: WD40, OMS, lacquer thinner, diesel oil, gasoline, etc...

The best electrical tape for many applications is 3M #33 or #88. Stretches well, doesn't creep, and doesn't leave a black mess. Works great for finishing a bar taping job.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediaw...SSuH8gc7nZxtUo8mSo8_xevUqe17zHvTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=EMD Tape Vinyl Comp Chart.pdf

 

LOL...try to HTFU when you covered in pitch-black tar from a year old ball of electrical tape. I've ruined many a pair of work pants with that crap.

Honestly...33+ is good stuff but Super 88 is better. Temflex is our workhorse...

I'm out of the field anymore so I guess that stuff is for the guys that are unfortunate enough to have to report to me.

 

try the Plasti-Dip spray-on coating.

comes in various colors and peels off if you want to go back to the original surface.

wrapping with electrical tape is seriously ghetto...

 

Plasti-Dip is tricky. If you don't put several thick coats on, it will not peel off easily at all. And, those coats need to go down back to back - no dry time. And, Plasti-Dip does not like tape joints at all. You really have to finish it at a an edge, e.g. painting right off the edge. To make a tape line work, you have to peel it while the Plasti-Dip is wet. This is damn near impossible - 'cause you're putting down 5 heavy coats. By the time you do this, the bottom/first coat is dry... and the tape lifts it up. Or, you use a razor...

 

I hope you don't plan on riding this bike in the mid-day sun.

My vote is to use that fire retardant beam coating "crust" spray and cover the whole bike with it.

 

I can't believe the serious advice being given. The whole bike taped? Oh my..never heard of that. Get it painted.....

 

I can't believe the serious advice being given. The whole bike taped? Oh my..never heard of that. Get it painted.....

Agreed. This has to be one of the silliest threads I've read.

Dude, paint your bike.

 

Well according to your other thread it's a throwaway bike. A $xxx bike is one thing but I wouldn't want to throw away electrical tape.

 

Yeah, seriously stupid idea. I mean, the only way you can keep a bike wrapped in electrical tape from turning into a total mess within no time, is by keeping it sitting in the living room.

And if you are trying to make the bike look unattractive to thieves, that will not work, either. If your bike is not properly locked, an opportunistic thief will make off with it; wrapped in electrical tape or not! Most bike thieves are looking to make anywhere between $20-$50 in a quick sale to fuel whatever set of substance they got going.

Paint it. Or just let it be.

 

Hit it with some pick up truck spray on bed liner.

 

Use this... Truck Bed Liner, Truck Bed Liners Kits, Roll On Bedliners Paint by Grizzly Grip I have used it on other projects (not a bike). I comes in tons of colors, is fun to use and talk about a durable finish!

Or powdercoat. I use a local company that will blast and powder coat a frame for $100 - and the frame is flawless when they are done.

 

Find a local powder coater. That will be inexpensive and a LOT more durable than electrical tape or rattle can paint. Just make sure they tape off all the threads on the bike first.

 

Right. Probably $100.

 

Woo-hoo electrical tape! It's the new carbon!!

 

Wow. That's a lot of work for a finish most would call mediocre. I would have simply skuffed the entire bike with some 400 grit, then some scotchbrite, then wiped it with acetone and used a $6 can of flat black from Menards.

 

Maybe your doctor needs to adjust you medication,,,"son,are you on drugs"lol

 

The more I think about it, the more I think duct tape would be a better choice. Black duct tape, if you prefer.

 

how about Gaffer tape. I heard it doesn't leave any residue. Has anyone used Gaffer tape on their frames for an extended amount of time and is it true no residue is left?

 

I use gaffers tape on my camera gear and it never leaves any sticky residue. It comes in rolls like Duct Tape so instead of wrapping it around and around, if the tubes are thin enough you may be able to do it long ways. The finish will look like flat black canvas though. Sometimes you can find it at Best Buy in the Music section for about $10 a roll. Otherwise, Amazon is good. Music stores usually have it but can be up to $30 a roll at the mom and pop shops.

 

Need to qualify that. High quality electrical tape (e.g. 3M #33 or #88) doesn't turn into a black sticky mess. Cheap stuff does.

 

Use cold shrink tape. It has no glue and only adheres to itself. It's super stretchy and will conform to weird shapes well.

Self Amalgamating Sealing Cold Shrink Tape
Self-Amalgamating Tape is designed to be a stand-alone weatherproofing solution. COLD SHRINK TAPE has the ability to "weld" itself chemically and mechanically into a mass with no layers, to form a watertight skin.

When applied under tension, COLD SHRINK TAPE provides a neat, void free, continuous wrapping, without the need for external heat or pressure. It can be easily applied by hand, contouring closely to irregular shapes or bends to form a permanent insulating layer or waterproofing barrier. In addition, when cut, COLD SHRINK TAPE can be removed cleanly, facilitating easy access and inspection of the protected area. Service life for COLD SHRINK TAPE is projected to be several years when exposed to out-of-door conditions, and equal to cable life in enclosed locations.

FEATURES AND BENEFITS: Forms tough, homogeneous, watertight skin. Provides for temporary and/or long term protection even during prolonged immersion in water. Resists abrasion, impact, sunlight, and most chemicals. Eliminates need for overwrap in most applications. Keeps installation costs down. Requires no heat or open flame. Minimizes equipment, promotes safety and convenience. Cuts installation costs. Wraps a wide range of sizes, shapes, and materials. Reduces need for special tapes or devices. Lowers inventory. Has excellent electrical properties, water, resistance, ozone resistance and corrosion resistance at temperatures ranging from -40 degrees C to 100 degrees C continuous , and to 130 degrees C for short periods of time. Does not transfer adhesive. Does away with messy clean-up after use. Has little tack. Eases handling. Speeds application to save time.