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Automatic shifting? Where have you seen that on a road bike?
 
Synchro Shift isn't automatic shifting.
It's synchronized shifting. You still must choose when to push the button to execute the shift.
"Not only do you choose when the front derailleur shifts, you can program simultaneous rear shifts to maintain cadence and momentum."
 
true that it is not entirely autonomous ... but there is some form of automation in synchro shift.

i think shimano's solution for e-bikes is more autonomous than synchro shift, but don't know much about that system. not sure what sram and campy have as far as this.

i think with Di2, if you've got the d-fly module and a power meter, you could program the bike computer to do the shifting - not 100% sure though.
 
true that it is not entirely autonomous ... but there is some form of automation in synchro shift.

i think shimano's solution for e-bikes is more autonomous than synchro shift, but don't know much about that system. not sure what sram and campy have as far as this.

i think with Di2, if you've got the d-fly module and a power meter, you could program the bike computer to do the shifting - not 100% sure though.
I know that on the latest Di2 generation, you can set it up so that when you shift the rear, the front will automatically move to prevent cross chaining. You can also set it up so that when you shift the front, the rear moves so the difference isn't so great. Beyond that, what you say is news to me.
 
I know that on the latest Di2 generation, you can set it up so that when you shift the rear, the front will automatically move to prevent cross chaining.
Syncro Shift has been available for all Di2 generations.
It wasn't originally available on 6870 & 9070 but was added as an update in 2016.

I love the Semi-Sync.
Full Sync IMO isn't good in hilly areas because it will shift the FD at non-optimal times.

 
checked wahoo's site and i stand corrected about stating automatic shifting via bike computer. it does look like ELEMNTs can monitor the di2 and suggest shift points. still learning about the tech.

generally when i first mentioned the tech some pages back, it was comparing to bicycle tech about 30 years ago when none of this stuff existed, so things have advanced a lot

@tlg - about that video ... the bike is an emonda ... a lbs in my area that deals trek told me the emonda is more well suited to climbing over the domane (the bike I have). so would someone who lives in a hilly area tend to choose a short chainstay road bike over others with long chainstays ?
 
@tlg - about that video ... the bike is an emonda ... a lbs in my area that deals trek told me the emonda is more well suited to climbing over the domane (the bike I have). so would someone who lives in a hilly area tend to choose a short chainstay road bike over others with long chainstays ?
The reason the emonda is considered a climbing bike is because it's lighter. Not because of the chainstays.
Shorter chainstains give a more agile feel and benefit cornering. But they're also less stable at high speed.

There's more to choosing a bike than just weight. The emonda is a race bike and the domane is an endurance bike. (not that you couldn't race a domane)

 
yea, the weight is also a factor i didnt mention that.

specs wise the competing lines of road bikes within each brand and across the brands can offer the different frame types at comparable almost the same weights … but would pay dearly for the lightest ones.

im happy w the domane so far, cannot complain its a nice bike for my needs.
 
Syncro Shift has been available for all Di2 generations.
It wasn't originally available on 6870 & 9070 but was added as an update in 2016.

I love the Semi-Sync.
Full Sync IMO isn't good in hilly areas because it will shift the FD at non-optimal times.

Not sure I like the semi-sync as I use the front shifter if I need a big change in gearing - like at the top or bottom of a hill. The full-sync seems more useful to me as it will never let you cross chain.
 
So ... is she or isn't she running the inserts?
We were unable to get the rear tire to seat on the rim with the insert inside. (I never tried the front.)

So now the her tire and sealant are on her bike, and when she wears through the tire, I might try it again, unless I can find some other use for these currently unused tire inserts.
 
Not sure I like the semi-sync as I use the front shifter if I need a big change in gearing - like at the top or bottom of a hill.
Not sure I understand what you mean. You can still shift the front using semi sync.

I think Full Sync is fine for casual riding. I tried it for a while and it was great 80% of the time.
But shifting on hills is the exact reason I'll never use Full Sync. It can even be dangerous.
If you're powering up a steep hill, especially if you're standing, close to cresting the top, and you need to shift... it's better to remain in the big ring. But with Full Sync, the next shift could force you down to the small ring. If that happens while you're standing under power... whoop over the bars.


The full-sync seems more useful to me as it will never let you cross chain.
You're an experienced rider. You know how to not cross chain. And modern drivetrains operate just fine cross chaining. Especially if it's just short periods (like cresting a hill)
 
Not sure I understand what you mean. You can still shift the front using semi sync.
Right. But when you do, in semi-sync mode, the rear will compensate to make a smaller difference in gearing when what I really want is that large difference.
 
Right. But when you do, in semi-sync mode, the rear will compensate to make a smaller difference in gearing when what I really want is that large difference.
Still not understanding.
Full Sync doesn't give you a large difference between shifts either. It gives you small jumps in ratios.
Full Sync also adjusts the rear to compensate. In that aspect they're exactly the same.
 
i dont have di2

the way i switch chainrings is the way that shimano’s shifters allow you to …

both brake levers pushed inboard = large chainring and 2 shifts inboard on the cassette
both small levers pushed inboard = small chainring and 1 shift outboard on the cassette

since i’m not doing heavy climbing (<5% grade) i got used to that and it works for me
 
concerning the topic of tires, if modern bike rims can be considered rigid (flex is tolerable by the tire bead/lip), then the only reasons i can see that a tubeless setup WITHOUT any sealant would not hold air is due to gaps and losses elsewhere like the spoke/nipple and the valve.

automotive doesn't use any sealant, the tire bead/lip is lubricated with a substance that makes the seal to the wheel leak-proof.

the sealant then, is only present for convenience in the case that it actually does do its job and seal off small punctures.
 
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