Bought an Easton EC90 SL 1" steerer. My front brakes (Campy) has a brake bolt that won't fit all the way in. Any suggestions?
View attachment 97958
View attachment 97958
Brake Bolt won't Insert all the way into Fork.
Ken
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Bought an Easton EC90 SL 1" steerer. My front brakes (Campy) has a brake bolt that won't fit all the way in. Any suggestions?
View attachment 97958
View attachment 97958
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Take the bolt to a LBS and ask for a shorter one.
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Yep.
I agree with PeanutButterBreath. Take the fork into the LBS and they should hook you up with what you need. if the LBS isn't an option, try here: http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi
or MAYBE here:
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/
I agree with PeanutButterBreath. Take the fork into the LBS and they should hook you up with what you need. if the LBS isn't an option, try here: http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi
or MAYBE here:
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/
nope..
The problem is not that the bolt is too long, the hole is too small. It's not unusual to find some paint or epoxy build-up that's causing a problem. Quite often the shank of the bolt will go in, but the head hangs up. A little clean up with a small round file or a 5/16 inch drill bit will fix the problem. If the head hangs up, a little touch-up with dremal sanding drum might be required.
The problem is not that the bolt is too long, the hole is too small. It's not unusual to find some paint or epoxy build-up that's causing a problem. Quite often the shank of the bolt will go in, but the head hangs up. A little clean up with a small round file or a 5/16 inch drill bit will fix the problem. If the head hangs up, a little touch-up with dremal sanding drum might be required.
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Good point. Based on OPs description and picture, I took the problem to be a too long bolt not a too narrow hole.C-40 said:
doesn't matter..
http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cg...dex.cgi?d=single&c=Brake&sc=Recessed Nuts&tc=&item_id=LS-0051OB&id=683490031747
Yout get a nut for the mounting stud with the brakes. Some forks have such a long length of engagement that they come with their own their own special nut.Ken said:
http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cg...dex.cgi?d=single&c=Brake&sc=Recessed Nuts&tc=&item_id=LS-0051OB&id=683490031747
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I am not sure how the stock hardware compares, but there are several lengths available to accomodate different fork depths. Often a CF fork will require a longer recessed nut -- what kind of fork did the EC90 SL replace? It could be that a longer nut was required for the previous fork than will fit in your new fork.Ken said:
Or it could be a matter of doing a little finishing work per C-40's suggestion. Try removing the caliper and wheel, inserting the recessed nut and looking through the opening in the bottom of the crown (assuming there is one) to determine if the nut is bottoming out or if it is getting jammed before it inserts all the way.
Just make sure that you are getting adequate engagement of the recessed nut with your ultimate fix. Shimano recommends at least 6 threads of engagemtne between the pivot bolt and recessed nut.
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The fork is the same size and dimensions as the fork it is replacing. Also I've just read up that Shimano brake bolts and Campy brake bolts have the exact same specs. Anyway for the sake of discussion and enlightenment here is a picture of the brake bolt that I pulled out of the fork I'm replacing.
View attachment 97961
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Made a boo-boo. PeanutButterBreath you made me see the light. I need a shorter bolt. I remeasured the fork bolt hole length and there is a 5mm difference. Will go to the LBS tomorrow and see about getting a shorter bolt. One other thing, does anyone know what length bolt I need to get my Campy Record front brake calipers to fit on this Easton EC90 SL straight leg fork?
measure...
That's an extremely long nut. Stock nuts are in the 11-14mm range. Put the brake on the fork, screw the nut on about 8 turns and try to measure from the under side of the head to the recess that the head seats against to determine how much excess you have.
Alternately, you said you measured the depth of the hole. I'm now assuming the there is a smaller diameter hole on the front side of the fork, to fit closely with the brake mounting bolt. The back side is counterbored to 5/16 inch or 8mm, with a second, larger counterbore for the head of the nut. The nut just has to be shorter than the length of the smaller counter bore, but it also can't be so long that there would be a chance of bottoming out the nut on the threads of the stud.
If the fork did not come with a special nut, then most likely a stock one will do.
Don't have any other bikes around with a nut you can steal?
That's an extremely long nut. Stock nuts are in the 11-14mm range. Put the brake on the fork, screw the nut on about 8 turns and try to measure from the under side of the head to the recess that the head seats against to determine how much excess you have.
Alternately, you said you measured the depth of the hole. I'm now assuming the there is a smaller diameter hole on the front side of the fork, to fit closely with the brake mounting bolt. The back side is counterbored to 5/16 inch or 8mm, with a second, larger counterbore for the head of the nut. The nut just has to be shorter than the length of the smaller counter bore, but it also can't be so long that there would be a chance of bottoming out the nut on the threads of the stud.
If the fork did not come with a special nut, then most likely a stock one will do.
Don't have any other bikes around with a nut you can steal?
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From the link you provided to LooseScrews I found the next length down is the 30mm one. What I think I'm going to do is go through the LBS where I got the fork and have him contact Easton and get the complete low-down.:idea:C-40 said:
more...
You're making this too hard. The next shorter length down from 30mm is a 20-22, then a 10mm. All you need to do is get 6-8 turns of engagement and not bottom out in the counterbore.
You could probably cut off the one you have, if it's no longer needed. Most of these nuts are fully threaded. The four stock nuts I've got laying around even show thread marks into the 6mm internal hex area. Worst case, you might need an M6 tap. You can get one of those or a small 4-10mm set at Ace Hardware.
You're making this too hard. The next shorter length down from 30mm is a 20-22, then a 10mm. All you need to do is get 6-8 turns of engagement and not bottom out in the counterbore.
You could probably cut off the one you have, if it's no longer needed. Most of these nuts are fully threaded. The four stock nuts I've got laying around even show thread marks into the 6mm internal hex area. Worst case, you might need an M6 tap. You can get one of those or a small 4-10mm set at Ace Hardware.
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