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3rd set of BB90 bearings on 2012 madone 6.2

It sounds like my problem isn't unique after reading these posts. I have a 2012 Madone 6.2 and the non-drive side bearing has failed twice in under 1,500 miles, and I think the 3rd bearing is on the way out. I bought the frame new on Ebay and had the frame built out with Ultegra components. The first time the the non-drive side bearing went bad, the shop replaced it and said that it went bad from water intrusion. I never wash my bike with a hose and it never gets wet because I do not ride it in the rain. The bearing were dry and made a squeaky wheel type of noise. The mechanic noticed that the grease was a rust color and that is why he concluded that the bearing somehow got wet and failed. The first set last about 1400 miles. The second set failed in four rides for a total of about 200 miles. Same high pitched squeaking noise and only the non-drive side. I even went so far after the bearings were replaced to put a small bead of silicon just above the bottom bracket area so any water coming from my water bottle in the cage would be directed around the bottom bracket shell opening; that seems to really work in keeping water from entering this area.

I noticed that there was no axle shield installed when the bike was built out, but I just assumed that it wasn't needed because the mechanic that did the build out gave me the extra parts that he didn't use. I bought the frame new on Ebay and it came with some extra stuff. The mechanic that built my bike no longer works at that shop, so when the 1st bearing failed to took it to another reputable shop near where I live. The mechanic there was the one that mentioned possible water intrusion and proceeded to replace both bearings. But he didn't install the axle shield either which I discovered today when I removed the crankset to take a look. I called a Trek dealer (there are none within a 100 miles of where I live) and the mechanic said that the axle shield should be installed.

Everything that I have read about this bike says that the bearings can be removed and installed by hand since they just go right into the frame and that a press isn't necessary. Well, I cannot remove the bearings by hand because they seem to be pretty tight in the shell. I want to remove the bearing so I may install the axle shield because I am thinking that this may help. The Trek mechanic said that the axle shields are part of the bearing kit because they should be used for this bike.

One last thing that I want to mention that could be part of the problem: the part of the axle that comes into contact with the inside of the non-drive bearing has a slight ring on the surface from where it comes into contact with the bearing, but the ring on the axle is not continuous; it goes maybe 2/3 of the way around the axle. This tells me that the bearing may not be aligned in the frame correctly, and I am wondering if the axle shield would make a difference. I am not even sure exactly what the purpose of the axel shield is since since the axle is concealed in the frame. Do the flanges at the ends of each half of the seal play any role in the bearings being aligned?

Fortunately, I do not have the problem of loose bearings in the frame like some others have experienced. Since I bought this frame on Ebay, I know that Trek will not warranty it, so I want to be careful to not mess this fame up. Any ideas on how I should remove the bearings and reinstall them? Thanks!
 
Extra Parts!?

...I noticed that there was no axle shield installed when the bike was built out, but I just assumed that it wasn't needed because the mechanic that did the build out gave me the extra parts that he didn't use...
It sounds like the mechanic really ****ed up. Take it to a Trek dealer and have it done correctly. This means with the axle shield and other seals. It has to be done with a bearing press and lots of grease so the bearings will seat correctly. After you ride several times you should retighten the left crank arm. On Shimano this requires a special tool to tighten the arm onto the axle and a torque wrench to tighten the crank bolts.

You can lookup the correct procedure on trek's web site.
 
I will have the axle shields installed

I did call the Trek bike shop in La Mesa, CA, and the mechanic was very cool in taking a few minutes to explain the BB90 installation process. Grrrr, the only problem I have besides the bottom bracket being installed without the axle shield is that the nearest Trek bike shop is a whopping 110 miles or so from where I live (near Pasadena). The shop that replaced the bearings the last time is also a Trek dealer, though they sell other bikes as well. I suspect that this mechanic didn't install the axle shield because the mechanic at a different shop that originally built the bike out in July didn't install the axle shield, so he may have assumed that it wasn't necessary since he didn't see one already installed when he removed the bearings for replacement. I know that the bearing shield is part of the Shimano bearing kit for this model Madone, however. The mechanic that replaced the first set of bearings replaced them again (now on my 3rd set) for free (parts and labor) since the second set lasted only 200 miles. He's a cool mechanic, so I hope he doesn't mind removing and reinstalling the bearings with the axle shield. Heck, I'd even offer to pay again if I know that it is done correctly.

Still, I do not really know whether the axle shields would make a difference with the non drive side bearing failing prematurely. I guess that I will find out. Thanks all who responded.
 
Trek dealers

I know that there are Trek dealers closer to Pasadena than 110 miles away, but I was referring to an actual Trek store that sells only Trek bikes that is 110 miles away. I did in fact take my Madone to an authorized Trek dealer, but not to a Trek store. I know that it shouldn't really make a difference, it's just that I figure that mechanics at a Trek store only work on Trek bikes so they would probably know how to property install the bb90 bearings. I will be calling the mechanic at the local dealer today.
 
I know that there are Trek dealers closer to Pasadena than 110 miles away, but I was referring to an actual Trek store that sells only Trek bikes that is 110 miles away. I did in fact take my Madone to an authorized Trek dealer, but not to a Trek store. I know that it shouldn't really make a difference, it's just that I figure that mechanics at a Trek store only work on Trek bikes so they would probably know how to property install the bb90 bearings. I will be calling the mechanic at the local dealer today.
There are good and bad mechanics at every shop. I'm sure even the Trek store has some that are less competent than others. Find an LBS with good mechanics and patronize regularly.
 
Well said - however, I'm replacing almost every 1K (give or take a few hundred) and I'm NOT riding in the rain, or muddy conditions. While replacing the bearings is no big deal on these bikes - doing it three/four times in a season is a bit much. And given how persnickety I am about making sure my bikes are in top condition, it's a bit of a PITA. My suggestion would be to come up with a better seal on the bearings themselves. The non-drive side is always the set that goes bad.
I have the same isse and I don't ride it in rain or muddy conditions. It's a pain in the butt and such an obvious design flaw yet Trek would never admit to it.
 
I have the same isse and I don't ride it in rain or muddy conditions. It's a pain in the butt and such an obvious design flaw yet Trek would never admit to it.
you did read my reply to your other post, right? if there are thousands and thousands of these frames out there...and maybe 'dozens' of complaints at most, is that a design flaw? or is it incorrect installation and/or maintenance as i said?
install the bearings properly and remember, grease is your (cheap) friend.
 
I have replaced my bearings once last Feb for my 2012 Madone 4.7. I rode it in the Palm Springs Century and there was a sand storm during it and my bike and I got blasted. Last month I took a header and landed in the beach sand off the El Seg/ManBea strand and after my bike was cleaned (by my personal but not shop mechanic) I notice a crunchy sound when rotating the crank in a controlled environment...(quiet garage on stand). So my buddy is going to try to procure some bearings from Trek and take care of my issue. The bike is rideable but he wants to correct it. I'll ask him to read through this thread for tips.
 
I have replaced my bearings once last Feb for my 2012 Madone 4.7. I rode it in the Palm Springs Century and there was a sand storm during it and my bike and I got blasted. Last month I took a header and landed in the beach sand off the El Seg/ManBea strand and after my bike was cleaned (by my personal but not shop mechanic) I notice a crunchy sound when rotating the crank in a controlled environment...(quiet garage on stand). So my buddy is going to try to procure some bearings from Trek and take care of my issue. The bike is rideable but he wants to correct it. I'll ask him to read through this thread for tips.
it's painfully simple. use lots of grease and make sure they go in straight. that's about all there is to it.
 
I like resurrecting threads. The other day I noticed a little play in my Ultegra crankset on my 2011 Madone 5.2. So, put it on the stand, loosened the pinch bolts and applied a little torque (about 1 NM) to the pre-load plastic bolt. This was too much torque as the cranks had quite a bit of drag when I spun them without the chain on. So, I disassembled the entire crankset to take a look. First thing I noticed, the non-drive side bearing just fell out of the frame. The frame looked fine, just that the bearing seemed too small to have been pressed in. When I pulled the drive side of the crank off the bearing came out with it. Again, the frame looked fine but the bearing seemed too small.

Does this mean my bike requires the V2 bearing to fit tighter? If that's the case is this a warranty replacement item?
 
The molded composite bottom bracket bearing seats on several Trek branded composite frames are known to be out of specification, a combination of bearing bore diameter and roundness. This is why sometime re-positioning the cartridge bearing within the BB shell appears to improve the fit of the bearing to the BB shell. Ultimately the bearing will be too loose for the application - the result will manifest as a loose crank. There is no 100% correction for this after the fact except to get a new frame or 'glue' the bearing into place with an expanding adhesive (not recommended by the frame manufacture) -- but at some point if the mfg will not replace your frame and you want to still use it... glue in a new set of bearings and go... You can confirm a size issue by measuring the BB shell bearing bore diameter at multiple locations...if a measurement is larger than the measured bearing outer race diameter... you will most likely get place in your crank. Shimano cranks are somewhat more tolerant of potential play because the play can sometimes be pulled tight as you laterally pre-load the crank during install. Sram cranks on this system are more likely to experience play if the crank bottoms out on the BB spindle before bottoming out on the shoulders of the BB shell bearing bores.
 
Yes, there is 100% correction to that issue and it's called v2 bearings. After I placed them in my Madone frame I had no more issues with the BB. Now I have new Emonda frame that have developed the same problem and I am waiting for the warranty claim to process.
 
gras - so you have a new frame, Emonda, and it developed the same problem, correct? I wonder why the product is not just made with V2 bearings to begin with -- if that solves the problem all the time. Bummer - hope you are able to get it working soon.
 
When I got it one year ago it was fine with the standard bearings. Now, during some maintenance I noticed that the bearings are loose as on my last frame. I guess some frames develop that issue over time, when they are new the standard bearings are ok, but after some time the get loose, and then the v2 solve that problem. I know for a fact, that there are frames, that are ok with the standard bearings for long time. Just my luck is the problem I guess...
 
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