Is it once click per pedal cycle? often when there is clicking at one end of cassette, it is the chain or pedal hitting something-FD usually.

b21

 

Time for a little tweak of the barrel adjuster? IME, sometimes that chattering only happens in only a few gears. I can't explain why though.

 

Not the FD... Tested that as well.. The click seems to be once per revolution of the cranks but I'm not sure. I'll have to double check.

Might be time to get out my park hanger alignment tool..

 

Not the FD... Tested that as well.. The click seems to be once per revolution of the cranks but I'm not sure. I'll have to double check.

Might be time to get out my park hanger alignment tool..

Just to make me happy, remove, clean and re-install your seat post. It could be a waste of time, but maybe not.

 

Hmm.. I don't think that'll be the case but I'll give it a shot.

 

b-screw adjustment?

Have you changed to a new cassette size or front chainring size? i.e. switched to a compact crankset? If so, chain tension may have been affected and you may need to remove a link or two to take up extra slack.

It may be that the derailleur pulleys are getting in too close to the cassette teeth.. Have a look at the b-tension screw adjustment - that little screw that sits just below the frame mounting bolt and comes to rest on the small cutout of the frame. The teeth of the pulleys should not come in contact with the cassette teeth, but should be fairly close in order to have sufficient chain wrap. Turning this screw counterclockwise will move the teeth closer (more chain wrap). You need to make a few turns and then turn the pedals a few times to see any effect; it is not a very sensitive adjustment so feel free to make 2 or 3 turns. Check in both the high and low gears on the cassette, while in the small chainring. I think Park Tools have a description of the process on their site.

Finally, it could be that some dirt has entered the space between the spacer rings in the cassette and put the last few cogs out of place. Have you removed the cassette recently? It may be also that the cassette isn't tightened properly. It should not be hugely tight, but for some reason, cassettes do come loose now and then and create rattling and clicking noises, which appear only on some gears.

Hope this helps..

 

I need to pick up a campy cassette tool.. I'll check that stuff asap. Thanks for the suggestions!

 

Got an extra set of pedals and shoes? Swap 'em out and see if the noise goes away. Also, if you were just screwing around with your BB recently I'd pull it apart and put it back together again.

 

B-tension screw

I was assuming Shimano - same principle for Campy though... the b-screw is that little Phillips set-screw just at the base of the place where the pulley cage mounts onto the derailleur body shaft. Use a slot screwdriver; for some reason Phillips drivers always slip on these adjustment screws and mess them up.

I'm also assuming that you're using a proper width chain? i.e. Ultra Narrow if it's a 10 speed drivetrain, etc..

If all else fails, put another cassette on to see if there is some fault with it.. Changing out parts one by one may be a bit tedious, but it could isolate the problem.

Good luck.

 

The click seems to be once per revolution of the cranks but I'm not sure. I'll have to double check.

Is the FD cable end striking the inside of the crank arm?

 

The chain isn't campy but it's compatible. I already have over 2000 miles on it with almost no wear. I bought 2 of these chain after recommendations from these forums.

Becky... Damn I'll feel pretty effing stupid if you're right about the cable. I'm checking that immediately when I get home. haha

 

Try chain swap

It can very likely be that the chain you're using has just worn enough to cause this, even while being within spec. If you have another chain that you can pop into its place (quick link would make this really easy), just to see if the problem still exists, then you can rule out this rather obvious source.

Remember that cassettes and chains wear in unison, so if you've recently swapped one or the other, then they may not be happy mates.. Once you have your Campy BB tool, you can try another cassette (even with this chain) to see if that's the source.

Don't you just hate this crap? Makes you want to spring the 2 grand on the new Campy 11 speed...

 

No.. 11 gears is too much for me..

I'm actually interested in the SRAM Force groupo.. but I would rather save my money for now and blow a bunch on a new bike instead. I want a Cervelo R3.. full SRAM Force and decent wheels..

 

Considering right now I could get new Mavic Ksyrium SL Premium wheels, and the full Force Groupo for $2200.. Just seems like a better deal..

 

Yeah; I know the SRAM stuff is pretty good, but I'm a dedicated Campy guy. There is nothing even close and the new version is spectacular. I don't need 11 gear either, but this is a 'keep up with the Joneses' world. If I only had 3 or 4 bikes, I'd certainly make the conversion. With all my bikes, I simply can't afford to get into the change, so I'll stick with Record 10 for now..

 

how many bikes would you be outfitting?!

 

I had a similar clicking or ticking sound that was roughly in time with crank revs. I looked, looked, then looked some more. Found nothing. Finally, weeks later, I was leaving a parking lot at the start of a group ride, and I found it. As I started off, I looked down & back to see what gear I was in, and the cranks were positioned just right for me to see the inside heel of my right foot brush the center of the crank. It wasn't hitting enough for me to feel it, but the plastic piece on the shoe made the noise.

 

If I did 'em all with Super Record at retail price, the bill would be about $35,000.00 Yikes!

 

Well I rode today after checking the shifter cable to the FD.. along with the seat post.. cleats.. pedal/crank interface.. and I cleaned the chain. Still clicked.. So I just pulled my crank set off.. reoriented them to a different axis and re-cleaned and installed them. I then put the chain on in the reverse direction.. see if that helps... My cassette tool won't be here till tomorrow or Monday.. so we shall see where this all takes me..

 

If the clicking is coming from your cassette, I don't see what this has to do with your cranks or pedals.. If on the other hand you don't know where the noise is coming from, then the BB is a common Campy culprit. I'm assuming you have the square taper version. As wonderfully buttery smooth as these bearings are, they occasionally develop 'mystery' clicks and crunching sounds, even though the bearings may turn as smoothly as liquid glass.. It's caused by one or a number of factors, and turning the bearings in the BB may solve it, even if temporarily. Sometimes the BB has come a bit loose (is it an Italian threaded frame? There's a definite culprit, solved by using teflon tape) - or the bearing itself has become a bit loosened inside the BB shell, and re-tightening the BB may fix it. When you get your cassette tool, it's the same one that works with the bottom bracket (maybe the only place where Campy has actually saved us buying yet another tool..) so you can try these tweaks..

Maybe you can get a friend to help you isolate the origin of the sound while riding, before you take to whole bike apart :^)

 

I bought a campy BB tool when I got the bike because the cups got loose. It is a square taper but its one of the external flanged style with little grooves to attach to. I've already removed the BB and cleaned the whole area. I re-greased it all and torqued it down nicely.

I can get a new BB shipped to me if I need it from my shop. So if that's the case I'll have one next week.

 

Sounds like you're homing in on the bottom bracket. I was under the impression that the noise was coming from the cassette.. Depending on the level of the BB (Record, Chorus, etc) you can save some expense by changing only the bearings. You need to get the clip spring retainer off, and then drift the bearings, so maybe your bike shop ought to do it, but rather than the $80+ for a new BB, it may only be $20 for the new bearings. Some guys have gone to ceramics while doing this, (if you buy into the hype that ceramic bearings will make you faster)..

I have had Campy BB noises in the past and by removing the BB and/or twisting the bearing races in the cups the noise often disappears. Can someone on this post explain why?? This is in the pre-UT version.

 

It's sealed.. it's a cartridge style BB.. I don't believe I can open the assembly up.

 

I don't really know if it's from the cassette or not. I did use my alignment tool to tune the hanger a little and it was slightly off perfect. It's 100% now and I'm still getting the clicks.. Just gotta love these mystery noises!

 

So; I'm still not clear if the noise is coming form the back or the crank area?? Usually the BB noise will increase if you're standing and putting a lot of pressure on the pedals, whereas the cassette/chain issue will be noisy no matter what, or even decrease as there's more stress on the drivetrain..

As for the BB, what is written on it? I assume it's not Record, as that has a carbon barrel. Chorus has a metal barrel (the part that's inside the frame). Can you pull the ends off the barrel to expose the bearings? Yes the bearings are sealed and can't be easily lubed or taken apart, but the 4 bearing units can be seen when the ends are pulled off the centre barrel.. I can't remember about Veloce, Centaur or lower level B-brackets. But if this is a Chorus BB, you can try to force some grease into the seals of the bearings in case they have dried out.