I've not found any if the brake/shift levers to be fragile or finicky, but my experience is limited.

 

Would Rival or Ultegra be a significant step up in quality?

No, but they'll be lighter and prettier.

Are there any component groups that offer the sturdiness and reliability of downtube shifters, but without the hassle of having the change hand position every time I want to shift?

Campagnolo second generation ergo levers are mechanically similar to Campagnolo right/rear down tube shifters. They use the same detent system except the index cam moves in ergo levers where it was stationary in a down-tube shifter and movement is via a pair of ratchet levers instead of one directly attached lever.

If anything breaks or wears out you just buy a new part (generally a $5 spring or the $10 G-spring carrier) and rebuild it.

Third generation Ultrashift levers (no longer sold for 10 speed; you need to get new second generation Chorus/Record QS levers or NOS 2010 model year Centaur/Veloce levers) eliminate the wear-prone G-springs and should be more reliable although if you break one you need to buy a $100 replacement assembly including everything but brake blade, hood, and mounting hardware.

They can be paired to Shimano derailleurs with a Jtek Shiftmate.

 

How old is your allez? If its 10yrs or older, then I would advise against upgrading. Take it from someone who's been there & done that. If the bike was a classic like a serotta, nago or tommassini in mint condition, then it would definitely be upgrade worthy. The cost of upgrading vs picking up a slightly used bike made from the newer, high strength steels like 853 are going to be close.

I've seen used 853 bikes go for as low as $500 complete on fleabay. Upgrading the drivetrain means new levers, front & rear derailleurs, chain & cassette. Pretty close money wise. Besides the new steel bikes ride so much better than old steel. My first steel bike that I bought & raced on in the 90's was alright but every time you get out of the saddle & sprint, there would be bottom bracket flex. My 853 bike has zero flex while still giving that magical ride of steel. Do a little surfing first & see whats out there first.

 

It's one of the new 2010 vintage models. Google search for "specialized allez double steel", and its the first hit. The 2010 model doesn't provide any details as to what type of steel is used, but 2011 model page lists the material as Reynolds 520. Unfortunately, I'm completely uninitiated when it comes to understanding what these numbers mean. I gather 520 is slightly heavier and lower quality than 853. I'm really on the fence about getting these upgrades, so if it doesn't make sense to put nice parts on a budget frame, then I'm perfectly happy sticking with the downtube shifters... is the differential between 520 and 853 enough to make the upgrade not worthwhile?

 

Point to consider. Downtube shifters (with friction mode) is 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 speed compatible. Can't say that for brifters. I have 9 bikes. All but one have downtube shifters. The one bike with brifters I use for racing. Brifters are nice but doesn't make riding a bike more enjoyable.

My 2 cents.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'm gonna stick with the downtubes. The cost factor is too high for an upgrade, and I'm pretty happy with the current setup... Maybe I'll buy a used frame and try to build up a bike as a weekend project.

 

Ok, I think I understand your situation better. Your bike comes with the shimano 2300 series 8spd drivetrain but with downtube shifters instead. So if you want to switch to STI brake/shifter levers then you can just get the 2300 STI levers which will work with your 8spd drivetrain. So it shouldn't break the bank because you don't need a full drivetrain replacement. Try fleabay.

 

If you want something as simple and reliable as your downtube shifters but a little easier to use from the handlebars, get some indexed bar end shifters.

Although I LOVE integrated brake/shifters having just recently converted from downtube (2007), I've also recently been riding my commuter with indexed bar end shifters and they work extremely well, I'm very happy with them and wouldn't change that bike to integrated type unless I happened to find a killer deal or had them on hand already. For what it's worth, I've got the cables set up so they run under the handlebar tape all the way up to the stem for a very clean look, and they work perfectly, very snappy shifting.

There are also fairly low cost options for integrated - unless I'm mistaken, 9 speed shifters can be used for 8 or 9 speed (I know that this goes for indexed downtube, but have no personal experience with integrated shifters; hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Anyway, keep that in mind if you're shopping online sellers or ebay. With my 9 speed bar ends, for 8 speed, you just set the derailleur stop so that the indexed shifter doesn't go to the final position. Same holds for the triple front shifter - can be used w/ double crank as well.

For indexed bar ends, you can get brand new top of the line Dura Ace 9 speed for easily less than $100, or closer to $75 if you check places like Ebay or Probikekit.com. Other options are very inexpensive from $25 - $50 new or used.

 

Take a look at your bike. Round tubes steel or Ti with steel forks then I think down tube shifters. Carbon or hydroformed alloy or shaped steel the brifters.

Its an aesthetic thing in my mind. I feel proportions are better. There is also super crisp shifting if you go with nokon cables.