Normally modern crank bolts are "self extracting". There is a collar threaded in above the bolt head which the head pushes on as the bolt is unscrewed, pushing the crank arm off the spindle.

Sometimes they're rough or hard to turn if there is no grease in there. You can thread the bolt back in to get some clearance and shoot some spray grease between the bolt head and the collar. If the self extrractor does not work, you can remove the collar (there is usually two small holes for a pin drive) and use a puller with the correct threads.

When you're taking stuff apart it pays to search the internet for the manufacturers instructions.

PF30 is a different BB standard than BBright and uses different bearings and cranks.

 

Bbright frames use pf30 bb's. The only difference is the shell width. Some pf30 bb's have shorter axle sleeves that create a gap but that is a minor issue. Other than that any pf30 bb works in a bbright frame.

 

In a two-piece fully threaded assembly removing a bolt shouldn't get tighter as it is backed out because of bad thread - there is no new thread engagement. You're actually disengaging from the threads, so it should get easier (nut and bolt assembly are a different matter). If a bolt seems to tighten as it is backing with a two piece assembly like a crank arm it is often because the bolt has become a pusher/puller of the parts. Check to be sure the crankset isn't separating and then being driven apart by the bolt. If it is, there may be a snag against a shoulder or something along the bolt. Try to keep the two sides of the crankset held together as you back the bolt out. If that makes it worse, then assist the separation as you back out the bolt.

 

You're right. I was thinking of BB86 and BB90.

Doesn't change my observations about the extractor however.

 

Thanks for the help, guys. I kept unthreading then rethreading the crank until I finally got it off. When I removed it, not a hint of grease on the spindle.

Now the problem is that the spindle is stuck in the bearings. I've been beating it with a rubber mallet, but no luck. I already shot DW-40 around the spindle about 3 hrs ago but it still won't budge. Any ideas?

 

Take a can of compressed air. While holding it upside down, spray inside the crank shaft. This will get it really cold and should shrink the diameter enough to allow you to bang it out.

 

Hit it harder.


Seriously.

 

...do that while holding a piece of wood over the spindle end (2 x 4 scrap is good), and use a dead blow or real hammer. If you want some more chemical help, lay the bike on its side, and drizzle some ATF all around the spindle so it runs down into the BB.

 

I'm sure he will still need to give it a good whack!

 

Its worked for me.

 

I'm sure that's a relief. Too nice of a bike to have to get really forceful.

 

Thats great!

 

1. Yes
2. I suppose, but its a lot easier to direct the air duster. And cheaper.