So in general, what road bike parts (if any) will work on a mountain bike? Or work w/ other mtb parts/mtb frame. I kinda wanna build some sorta frankenbike type thing w/ a mtb frame/fork and at least some roadbike parts (handlebars especially and maybe other stuff) but I don't really know that much about building bikes compatibility b/w mtb and road bikes.
MWPDX
Drops are a no-no, at least when working with my hybrid. Brifters won't work with V-Brakes. Probably the same goes for disc brakes. Only way to get that to work is bar-end shifters. Using MTB shifters and sliding them into the middle of the bar can work if you can manage to do that. Just won't be so convenient. You could fit road cranks with the right BB's (which gives you access to bigger chainrings). I'm pretty sure you can put on road derailleurs but you need to make sure you have the appropriate cassette (or RD cage).
When putting the two Shimano 'ladders' side by side, MTB stuff costs more - especially since Saint is the only DH group they've really got. So I guess that's a perk for your franken-bike.
Personally, I'd just build a 29er and slap on road slicks - more versatile, you'll get less of that "lol wut" from people. My 1x8 hybrid is running on an all MTB setup except for wheels. The frame is pretty road-biased on the otherhand, making me come to RBR instead of MTBR. Only reason I like it is because it pretty much makes a problem-free tank of a road bike.
When putting the two Shimano 'ladders' side by side, MTB stuff costs more - especially since Saint is the only DH group they've really got. So I guess that's a perk for your franken-bike.
Personally, I'd just build a 29er and slap on road slicks - more versatile, you'll get less of that "lol wut" from people. My 1x8 hybrid is running on an all MTB setup except for wheels. The frame is pretty road-biased on the otherhand, making me come to RBR instead of MTBR. Only reason I like it is because it pretty much makes a problem-free tank of a road bike.
You CAN use STI shifters with V brakes, as long as you add a little device called a "travel agent", which makes the brake lever take up more cable, which is nessacary for correct operation. Most MTB frames won't take a standard road crank, but they may be able to take a compact, you'll just have to try and see what your frame will work with. I built up a Cannondale hardtail frame a few years ago with STI shifters and road handlebars [using the travel agents], and slicks. It was a great all around bike, ideal for commuting, light trails, etc. I miss that thing.
It really would help to know the specs of the MTB you want to use and also how far you want to take this, but here goes...
You could run drop bars. MTB bars are 25.4mm diameter, and road bars are 26.0mm, so you would need to ensure you had a stem with an appropriate bar clamp.
If the steerer on your fork is 1 1/8" and threadless, you should have no trouble tracking down a suitable stem. Otherwise you might be in for a bit of a search. Or if you have a threaded steerer because it's an old frame then you could get an adapter quill to run a 1 1/8" threadless stem.
The oversize 31.8mm standard bar diameter is used for MTB and road bars.
If your frame and fork supports disc brakes, Avid make a version of their cable disc for use with road levers. Alternatively you can use a travel agent as previously suggested (I think Delta make them, but I could be wrong there).
The rear spacing on a MTB is 135mm and 130mm for a road bike (being the standard for the last decade or more). A road hub will fit, but if this is a dedicated set up, you might like to build a road rim to a MTB hub.
Also, if you're using rim brakes on a MTb frame with a 700c wheel, the brakes won't line up with the rim. Mavic used to make an adapter to lift the brake calipers, but they might be hard to track down.
But a 700c rim on a disc hub (if your frame and fork has disc tabs) will solve that, or run a 26" rim with slicks.
A 10 speed cassette will fit a 9 speed MTB hub if you want to run 10 speed STI.
A big chainring like a 53 tooth will no doubt foul on the chainstay of the MTB unless it is spaced so far outboard that shifting and chainline go to hell, so get that idea out of your head,
Derailleur choice at the rear will depend on what gear set up you want to run. Front derailleur will be the MTB one, because as i said, road gearing is likely not to fit.
About the only thing that will fit without any clued in set up will be the saddle.
So I've either inspired you, informed you, or deterred you. If you want to be more specific about what specs your MTB has, or what you really want to achieve, we can tailor our advice and/or criticisms a bit better.
You say you don't know much about compatibility and building bikes - this project will have you becoming an expert in those little incompatibilities. Steep learning curve and all that.
Grumps
You could run drop bars. MTB bars are 25.4mm diameter, and road bars are 26.0mm, so you would need to ensure you had a stem with an appropriate bar clamp.
If the steerer on your fork is 1 1/8" and threadless, you should have no trouble tracking down a suitable stem. Otherwise you might be in for a bit of a search. Or if you have a threaded steerer because it's an old frame then you could get an adapter quill to run a 1 1/8" threadless stem.
The oversize 31.8mm standard bar diameter is used for MTB and road bars.
If your frame and fork supports disc brakes, Avid make a version of their cable disc for use with road levers. Alternatively you can use a travel agent as previously suggested (I think Delta make them, but I could be wrong there).
The rear spacing on a MTB is 135mm and 130mm for a road bike (being the standard for the last decade or more). A road hub will fit, but if this is a dedicated set up, you might like to build a road rim to a MTB hub.
Also, if you're using rim brakes on a MTb frame with a 700c wheel, the brakes won't line up with the rim. Mavic used to make an adapter to lift the brake calipers, but they might be hard to track down.
But a 700c rim on a disc hub (if your frame and fork has disc tabs) will solve that, or run a 26" rim with slicks.
A 10 speed cassette will fit a 9 speed MTB hub if you want to run 10 speed STI.
A big chainring like a 53 tooth will no doubt foul on the chainstay of the MTB unless it is spaced so far outboard that shifting and chainline go to hell, so get that idea out of your head,
Derailleur choice at the rear will depend on what gear set up you want to run. Front derailleur will be the MTB one, because as i said, road gearing is likely not to fit.
About the only thing that will fit without any clued in set up will be the saddle.
So I've either inspired you, informed you, or deterred you. If you want to be more specific about what specs your MTB has, or what you really want to achieve, we can tailor our advice and/or criticisms a bit better.
You say you don't know much about compatibility and building bikes - this project will have you becoming an expert in those little incompatibilities. Steep learning curve and all that.
Grumps
Do a search for "drop bar mtb" and "drop bar mtb conversion." There is a ton of info already out there, as well as previous threads here on RBR/MTBR.
The Project Frankenbike article was the one that got me started on the path toward a drop bar mtb. My drop bar Kona Kula is now one of my favorite bikes.
http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/tech/2002/features/frankenbike.shtml
Simplest conversion I would think is travel agents with V-brakes, and doing away with the granny on a standard MTB triple. Switch out the stem/bars/shifters for road stem/drop bars and STI.
STI road shifters should shift an MTB front derailleur OK, if not perfectly every time. If the front derailleur cage doesn't swing out far enough, you could look at a shorter BB since you will be running 2x8/9/10 anyway.
The Project Frankenbike article was the one that got me started on the path toward a drop bar mtb. My drop bar Kona Kula is now one of my favorite bikes.
http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/tech/2002/features/frankenbike.shtml
Simplest conversion I would think is travel agents with V-brakes, and doing away with the granny on a standard MTB triple. Switch out the stem/bars/shifters for road stem/drop bars and STI.
STI road shifters should shift an MTB front derailleur OK, if not perfectly every time. If the front derailleur cage doesn't swing out far enough, you could look at a shorter BB since you will be running 2x8/9/10 anyway.
I'll hoard in here as I have a Jamis Coda Elite w/disc brakes that is a so called mtn/road setup. This bike came stock 9 speed.
I'm thinking the 135 spacing of the rear disc hub plays havoc with the chainline? I think I'm learning this the hard way as I'm trying to convert this bike over to a 10 speed double setup. The chainline looks goofy to me. Maybe it's just because I'm used to looking down at a triple chainring and now the double looks different in respect to the chainline. I bought all the stuff to make it happen and need to finish it out and try it to see if it works but I'm a scared.....
I'm thinking the 135 spacing of the rear disc hub plays havoc with the chainline? I think I'm learning this the hard way as I'm trying to convert this bike over to a 10 speed double setup. The chainline looks goofy to me. Maybe it's just because I'm used to looking down at a triple chainring and now the double looks different in respect to the chainline. I bought all the stuff to make it happen and need to finish it out and try it to see if it works but I'm a scared.....
The hub/dropout spacing isn't the problem, that measurement is fixed. The thing you can fettle with is the bottom bracket.saddle tramp said:
You might need a BB with a wider axle (or in the case of external bearings BB, some spacers). To be sure, you need to take some chainline measurements.
If it looks goofy but works fine, then ignore it.
If it looks goofy and doesn't work, then fix it.
If it doesn't look goofy but still doesn't work, set up a single speed.
Grumps
i've used an old mtb frame (from an almost dept store level mtb) + old road wheels, + 28 mm rubber etc for kind of a 'cross setup.MWPDX said:
Stem is quill road and bars are drop ones.
brakes are longer reach road calipers.
crankset is still the mtb one.
28" wheel use was the only concern. I had to drill a second hole, lower, for the rear brake but no problem there (rear brake bridge is actually a plate, not only a bridge, so enough room below the initial fender-mounting hole to drill...)
good luck
brblue
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