Sounds like a bar/stem issue...

I'd recommend greasing the interface between the stem faceplate and the handlebar and re-tightening to spec. If that doesn't work, then address the bottom bracket.

Remember, the frame itself will act as a sound amplifier. It's really hard to tell exactly where a sound might be coming from.

 

Thanks....

I'd recommend greasing the interface between the stem faceplate and the handlebar and re-tightening to spec. If that doesn't work, then address the bottom bracket.

Remember, the frame itself will act as a sound amplifier. It's really hard to tell exactly where a sound might be coming from.

I just put on a new set of carbon bars last week and the sound was there before the new bars and after new bars so it is not stem/handlebar interface.

So is removing the SRAM RED cranks just like removing Shimano cranks (except for bolt that is actually on the older Shimano crankarm)?

 

I had the same problem with creaking only when I'm standing. Changed the bottom bracket and pedals. Turned out to be the rear hub bearings in the end.

 

Make sure your quick releases are tight.

 

Check the headset spacers as well. Try a little grease where they touch one another and the stem.

 

I had the same problem and it turned out to be my front wheel QR. A little bit of grease on the dropout faces/QR stopped it. I found this trick in Chris King's Tech Service Manual (pg 41) http://chrisking.com/files/pdfs/TechServiceManual.pdf .

This was after rebuilding my bottom bracket (to no available) and going through all the other areas mentioned. It was confirmed by changing front wheels (squeek disappeared). The squeek slowly comes back as the grease dries, and I just reapply and it clears up.

 

Noise sources

I have a Cervelo RS with SRAM RED cranks and SRAM NON CERAMIC bottom bracket. I get a slight creak/clicking only on the occasion when I stand up and pedal up a hill in a big gear. I believe the sound is coming from one of two places - either the BB or the headset. I THINK it is from the bottom bracket but not sure..any thoughts?

If you think it is from the bottom bracket, is removing SRAM RED cranks the same as removing Shimano cranks (i.e. use 'plastic wrench' to remove outter cap on non drive side and then use correct size hex wrench to loosen inner bolt on non-drive side and then slide cranks off?). Do you think taking cranks off and bottom bracket, cleaning up everything, re-greasing and re-installing solve this creak/clicking issue?

It is fairly common to have clicking noises, but ticks and clicks are very hard to eliminate sometimes. What seems like it is tied to the pedals may be coming from the seat post, etc. Sometimes things like temperature and humidity can affect noises as well. Also, things like the front derailleur cage just hitting the crank, loose bottle cage bolts, or the front derailleur cable sticking out and hitting your shoe can seem like they are clicks but really aren't.

Clicks tied to your pedaling can come from the BB (grease all threads in contact with the frame and BB, all metal to metal contact surfaces, and torque to the recommended settings, which can be quite high), crank bolts (grease threads and washers), the chain ring bolts (take them all out and grease the threads, the faces where they contact the CRs, and the CRs where they contact the crank spider arms), a stiff link in a chain or a burr on one of the "break off" special links used to assemble the chain, the pedals (grease the threads, get some wax etc. on the cleats, grease the bolts into your shoes, squirt some lube into the guts of the pedal machinery if possible), the chain (clean and lube), shoes/cleats (loose cleat nut rattling around in the shoe sole, shoe/cleat interface), cleat bolts, cleats touching pedals, bars and stem (grease the stem, stem bolts at both ends, h'bar bolt if quill stem, and h'bar where it goes through the stem, grease/tighten QRs, tighten cassette lock ring, grease cassette hub body and cassette spacers, grease steerer tube spacers if threadless), replaceable derailleur hangers (remove, clean, grease all parts and threads, reassemble), any other bolt (bottle cages, derailleur clamps, derailleur bolts, shift cable casing stops, etc.).

 

Easy things first. Check your chainring bolts and make sure they are tight. Than your pedals, and after that your cranks themselves.
One thing i have noticed on many of todays frames is that they dont finish the bottom bracket area and face it well, if at all. WIth todays Bottom Brackets designed to press up against the face of the bottom bracket shell, a little paint can definetly not allow a perfect interface. This is despite the fact of how hard you try to crank the bottom bracket down.
I had an older trek OCLV (my own 1999 model) that i had to face in order for it to stop creaking. THe facing tool took off just a bit of the carbon overlap over the ends bb shell. Cleaned it up till it was all shiny.
Definetly check your stem and also the spot where your spokes cross each other. A spot of lube there can completely cure a bike of noise.
Let us know what works.
Bill

 

Thanks guys...

Looks like I am on a witch hunt...hehehe. Big question..any chance that this clicking could cause any damage? It's been doing it as long as I have had the bike. With the Cervelo RS, it couldn't be the frame 'flexing' could it?? I weigh 200lbs (6'4"), but would not consider myself a 'powerful' rider.

 

Removing the SRAM Red crank is really easy. All you need is an 8mm hex to loosen the crank bolt on the non-drive side, take the non-drive crank arm off, then pull on the drive side to slide the remaining part of the crank out (sometimes you may need a tap or two with a rubber mallet).

Mine developed a creak/tick like you're describing, and I checked everything that people are recommending here. I ended up wrapping the BB threads in teflon tape, and that did the trick.

 

might be that you BB needs facing (especially if its external type..which Im guessin it is?)

 

Could be pretty much anything on the bike The dropouts is an area most people don't think about, but a lot of my clicks wind up being a pedal bearing.

 

Thanks...

Removing the SRAM Red crank is really easy. All you need is an 8mm hex to loosen the crank bolt on the non-drive side, take the non-drive crank arm off, then pull on the drive side to slide the remaining part of the crank out (sometimes you may need a tap or two with a rubber mallet).

Mine developed a creak/tick like you're describing, and I checked everything that people are recommending here. I ended up wrapping the BB threads in teflon tape, and that did the trick.

I looked at it last night and it looks like there is a 'bolt inside a bolt'. Is loosening the outer/bigger bolt the only one you need to loosen or is that just a 'hold in place bolt'? Take it off and then the smaller inside one? I think I may let the shop take off the arms and look at the BB, etc. etc....and charge me of course. I can check everything else myself.

 

Don't worry about that outer part- you only have to loosen the inner 8mm one to remove it.

 

Could be computer sensor hitting because of wheel flex.

 

Two other suggestions sometimes not considered:

Your shoe cleats may be worn out. I had some annoying clicking and creaking when I did out of saddle climbing. I knew the source was my worn shoe cleat because the noise travelled with me from bike to bike (I have quite a few in the garage).

Second suggestion would be the spokes, either where they cross or the nipples going into the rim. You might try using Linseed oil instead of regular bike lube; I don't think linseed oil would have the potential of rotting the rubber inner tube.

Bike noises, clicks, creaks and chirps are my pet peeves. Good luck in your hunting.

 

Thanks all...did a ride tonight and paid more attention. The click is very slight (almost not worrying about but we all know how we are about creaks and clicks) and occurs when each crank arm is at about 3 clock (straight up being 12 and straight down being 6)...so the click occurs once when drive side is at 3 oclock and once when the non drive side is at 3 oclock...does this help narrow it down any???

When I got home, I did take both front and rear skewers off and put a little grease on skewers and dropouts and made sure they are tight. The only crossed spokes on the bike are on the drive side of rear. When I would 'squeeze' any two crossing spokes and they would move, they would creak so I put some normal bike grease on the two spokes and 'worked' it into where they crossed. This did reduce the creak between the two spokes when the spokes would move with respect to each other, but have not had a chance to see if this was the source. I don't think I can grease the nipples because of the reynolds assault wheels, well, I guess I could if I took off the tires and greased from the outside of the rim and regular grease should work since the tube/rim tape comes in contact with nipples.

 

Well...I took off stem faceplate, cleaned bolts, re-greased and re-torqued, took off stem and put a little grease between each spacer and spacer and stem, cleaned clamp bolts and startnut bolt, greased and re-torqued (clamp bolts), put a little grease between rear spokes that touch, took off pedals, cleaned, greased and re-torqued, checked chain ring torque (all ok), took off bottle cages, cleaned bolts, greased and re-installed....and NOTHING...clicking is still there (in fact, I believe it may actually be a little LOUDER..for real). The only things left are the cassette tightness, cranks/bb, and hanger. After that, I guess I will try different wheels and see if that does it. Anyone think of anything I may have overlooked?

 

Did you check the pedal bearings? From what you wrote it seems like you just took off the pedals and re-torqued them onto the cranks.

 

I ended up wrapping the BB threads in teflon tape, and that did the trick.

x2. Great recommendation. This also keep out moisture.

 

I was just about to rip out my bb to hunt down a similar sounding noise. I already have the teflon tape so was surprised to have an issue.
I notice whilst manoevouring the bike that a creak noise seemed to be coming from the headset lower bearing area.
On closer inspection I actually isolated it to where the cables enter the barrel adjusters on the down tube. IE The 'spring-loaded' ajjustment. A drop of oil there knocked it on the head.
Will find out 7am tomorrow if I still have another noise.

 

Thanks guys...the pedals are Look Keo and have less than 700 miles on them and I only ride in clean conditions. I would be shocked of both pedal bearings needed service so early on, maybe one if something was wrong, but not both. Good idea with the cables...I will add it to the list. It also sounds like mine is coming from front end, but I got 'as light as I could on the bars' and cranked and it was still there. I HOPE I don't isolate everything else and have to have headset pulled. I put front wheel against a wall last night and pushed up down and 'torqued' bars and could not get any clicking. With it happening twice a revolution, it makes me think it is crank/BB, cassette, or hear hub. I will put a drop of chain lube on locations where barrel adjusters go down the downtube.

 

Any resolution with the noise? I have the same issue; creaking noise from headset when pedaling. This even happens when not touching the bars. I haven't tried to break down the headset yet as I would like to find the most likely culprit. In what area of the headset would get the most stress from pedaling? Creaking noise lessens when I stand (no it is not the seat).

Thanks guys...the pedals are Look Keo and have less than 700 miles on them and I only ride in clean conditions. I would be shocked of both pedal bearings needed service so early on, maybe one if something was wrong, but not both. Good idea with the cables...I will add it to the list. It also sounds like mine is coming from front end, but I got 'as light as I could on the bars' and cranked and it was still there. I HOPE I don't isolate everything else and have to have headset pulled. I put front wheel against a wall last night and pushed up down and 'torqued' bars and could not get any clicking. With it happening twice a revolution, it makes me think it is crank/BB, cassette, or hear hub. I will put a drop of chain lube on locations where barrel adjusters go down the downtube.

 

I have greatly reduced it. It was either one of the pedals or headset spacers or front wheel quick release. Not sure which as I cleaned greased all of them between a ride with clicking and one with almost zero clicking.

 

Almost zero clicking = the clicking did not come from the greased parts, but rather something adjacent you touched during the greasing activity. Did you take off the pedals and put back on? Did you lube the threads of the pedals?
Did the wheels change their position after putting them back on?