I bought the Specialized today. The SRAM Apex was just much more comfortable in my small hands. The tiagra made my hand feel numb after just a few minutes of riding. I think Carbon will be better in the long run too.

Thanks everyone!

 

You probably made a wise decision. IMO - Apex is the best value group going. Properly set up - it will serve you well.

 

They're both good bikes. I suggest riding them. See which fits and which you like.

 

Thanks for the reply! I should mention I've tried both them out and they both feel quite comfortable. Just trying to figure out if the Specialized is worth the investment at this point or I should just get the Cannondale because it's cheaper.

 

I am new to biking as well. I am not new to expensive hobbies!!

Both bikes are going to out perform your skill level for at least a year or two, probably more.

How committed are you are? Are you sure you are going to be riding in 6 months? 1 year? If I am going to have a bike hanging on the wall 99 out of 100 days, I'd prefer to have the $600 in my pocket.

Are you the type to constantly look back and think, 'I should have gotten the nicer one?" If so, getting the cheaper one will eat away at your enjoyment.

Being the tight wad I am (my aunt calls Alligator Arms because my arms are too short to reach my wallet), I'd to spend less now and make sure I am committed. If so, in a couple of years you can upgrade to a better bike if you feel it is necessary.

 

Have you factored in accessories and essentials such as a bike pump, tubes, helmet,gloves, chain oil, multitool and even riding gear. Both bikes seem like solid choices but remember to include those need items for biking as well.

 

If budget allows, both fit, both ride well -- get the best looking one. You'll want to ride it more.

 

A couple of items to consider:
1) The Ruby has a carbon frame where the Synapse 6 has an aluminum frame. A carbon frame costs more $ but provides more comfort on longer rides. I believe the Specialized Dolce line-up compares directly to the Cannondale Synapse line-up. My wife went from an aluminum bike to the Ruby and absolutely loves it.
2) Try and compare the Shimano shifting to the Sram shifting. They operate differently. It's a deal breaker for some.

 

Thanks for the replies. I'm fairly certain I'll be riding the bike but I don't know how "into" it I will get since I have a few other hobbies. I am definitely aiming to try biking long distance though.

I do bike almost all year, except when it snows, since I don't drive. Biking is my main mode of transportation. I'll be keeping my commuter for errands and times I need to lock up the bike.

I liked the SRAM shifters better because my hands are small but I think I could get used to both. I like the way the Cannondale feels compared to other aluminum bikes I tried but the Ruby seemed nice. I didn't notice a huge difference in feel.

If I were to get serious about cycling - I hope I do! - will I also outgrow the Ruby? I don't mind spending the money if it's a bike I'll keep for many years but if not I'm thinking the aluminum might be the better choice due to the price.

 

The $600 price difference is a big consideration. My wife's bike is 3 years old now. She fell in love with the nude carbon colour with the pink accents on the Ruby. She has the Shimano 10 speed Tiagra instead of the Sram Apex (just a personal preference).

I am not sure what you mean by "outgrowing", but, the MAIN difference between the lower tier groups vs upper tier groups is the weight of each component (heavier material selection). The shifting and braking has been excellent. I swapped the wheels and tires and the bike (complete with pedals, computer and bottle cages) weighs only 18.1 pounds.

As others have already stated; it comes down to which bike do you like better, which bike shop do you like better (if they are not the same) and how much will the $600 affect your pocket book?

 

With small hands factored in, it's almost a no-brainer to go with the SRAM set up that is obviously more comfy for you. Being able to confidently manipulate the controls in various positions as you are learning to ride well/efficiently is a very valid concern. One less thing for you to think about - while concentrating on the road.

Best of luck.

 

I'm assuming that both are new (meaning, never sold) bikes from older model years that the shop still has in stock? Making them new bikes as far as you being the original purchaser for warranty purposes goes?

 

It's expensive and a huge pain to change shifters.

A Century will probably take you over six hours the first time. Probably never a lot less. You're going to spend a huge chunk of that time with your hands on your brake hoods.

I finally gave up on an expensive steel bike that was too big to ride an aluminum bike that retailed for $900. I find my experience of riding a bike is governed by how it fits me, having a saddle and shoes I like, having handle bars I like, and having tires that roll smoothly. The bike I kept has a Tiagra and comparable blend and when it came down to it, I just didn't care enough to swap the Ultegra and 105 stuff from the other bike.

I haven't tried a carbon road bike yet. Maybe when I do, I'll decide I have to have one. But people were saying all the same things about steel, and I find if I want a smooth ride, which I do, it's really all about tire pressure.

 

Controls are a very important consideration and switching out a groupset on a bike can cost 1/3 to 1/2 the price of a new bike. And +1 on your contact points and tire pressure making a big difference in ride comfort.

Aluminum vs. Carbon people debate all the time. Personally I think the newer aluminum bikes and the technology used in manipulating the tubing to make them has come a long way and it is still a great frame material. Every frame material has its advantages and disadvatanges. Cannondale has been ahead of curve for a long time now with aluminum (although the rest of the industry is closing the gap) and they still make fantastic aluminum bikes. I bought a CAAD 10 this spring and I love it.

You'll have to decide if you like the ride of Carbon enough to justify the extra $600. I test rode a Carbon Synapse and wow was it smooth over seriously rough and potholed roads. The Aluminum version gets most of the same technology so I would imagine its a great bike too.

Also here's an interesting article on comparing alumnium endurance bikes and a little more info on the Synapse: Road Bike Action Magazine: Cycling News, Product Reviews, Road Bike Test & Features, Race News and Much More!

 

It's not necessary to change the whole group to change shifters. As long as you stick with the same number of cogs, just changing the shifters and rear derailleur is enough.

But that's still annoying and expensive enough that I wouldn't want to do it. The shifters are one of the most expensive parts of a drivetrain.

 

True and I may have overstated the cost of that switch by suggesting groupset but as you said shifters are the most expensive part, so its still costly. And as I understand it based on what I have read Shimano and Sram shifters pull different amounts of cable...rear derailleur obviously has to be swapped but I wonder how much different shifters would affect the old the front derailleur's function.

 

The front derailleurs are cross-compatible. Actually have Sora 2x9 shifters operating a Rival front derailleur on one of my bikes right now. Works fine. You see this sort of mixing and matching on entry-level bikes pretty frequently.

 

The feeling of the carbon wasn't significantly better than aluminum but I was told that it does make a difference over the long run. I definitely felt the carb was flexier than the aluminum.

I noticed that the 2012 Ruby has different geometry specifications than 2014 Ruby. Does anyone know if it's a significant difference? I would prefer a more relaxed style. Even the Dolce gave me shoulder pain. Thanks!

 

I get the impression that 5'1" is pretty tough. It's going to take a really short reach to get a bike to really fit you. The bike companies are getting better at this, but they're pretty variable about how well they do, and sometimes it seems like they make top tubes shorter by steepening the seat angle, and the reach stays long.

For $2000, you can afford a retail bike if that's what it takes. I think getting a frame that really fits you is more important than what components are on it. A $1500 bike should already be pretty good, leaving you with enough to buy a floor pump, flat kit, helmet, clothes, etc. and stay within your budget.

 

For some people, a long ride on aluminum might be fine, but at 5'1", you are more likely to experience road buzz and associated pain, simply because you weigh less. So...get the carbon framed bike.

The smaller SRAM shifters will also make a huge difference in you ability to ride pain-free.

 

Wow, this forum is so great. Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

My guess is that at 5'1 you probably are also fairly light, and you can ride at relatively low tire pressure. When comparing bikes make sure the tires are at the same pressure. Differences in tire pressure can mask the difference between frames.

I'm riding an aluminum Synapse with 25 mm tires (instead of the stock 23 mm back then), and it's a nice riding bike. I also test rode a carbon Synapse, and as best as my butt can remember, the aluminum Synapse with the wider tires was at least as smooth as the carbon Synapse with the narrower tires. Difficult to tell on test rides, though. I would really need to switch back and forth on longer rides to say with certainty.

 

Congrats on the new ride!

 

Apex levers have reach adjustment. I'm 6' tall and I've got the reach on my Red levers set fairly close. By default the levers come with the reach in the farthest out position but your LBS may have been on the ball and shortened it for you.

In any case it's easy to do. The user manual explains it:

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...t/files/techdocs/DoubleTap Integrated Brake Shifter 95-7015-007-000 Rev C_2.pdf