[dcgriz]

I expected the handling piece so that was no shocker, I ride a Yeti Sb6c which is raked out for a trail bike. Honestly I expected the engagement piece as well, I spent 1200 buck, I just didn't realize that it was common. Nice MTB hubs pretty much equate to good bearings, good engagement and color options.

I rode last night by myself and it was much different, I didn't have to stop pedaling which makes all the difference in the world.

Your OP is not about "need" but rather about "want". You were commented on what you need but you are the one that needs to draw pleasure out of your cycling. Cycling is about pleasure so do what gives you the most.

Folks here mean well and gave you what they believe to be their honest advise however this advise works best for them and not necessarily you.
You don't have to conform to the common wisdom nor the folks here have to be compelled to enlighten you.

 

[Mike T.]

OP, I've raced road and MTB and I have King MTB hubs (arguably the best engagement and the most expensive) and I have a few $140 sets of road Bitex (arguably the "worst" engagement and the least expensive). Any comparison between MTB hubs and road hubs, as far as engagement is concerned, is a total non-issue. I ride 100% road now and don't ever remember making my hub engagement a conscious thought.

 

[Migen21]

Engagement isn't nearly as critical on a road bike as it is on a mountain bike.

My suggestion would be to just get used to it. Alternatively you could fuss over finding hubs with super high engagement, but honestly, there are other more important things to worry about with road hubs...

 

[Magsrgod]

Thank you all for the help. I've put about 60 miles on the bike in the last few days and when I'm riding solo it's a non issue. The first day riding with other people it was much more noticeable.

So with this all being said what offers the best bang for the buck upgrades on road bikes?

 

[Mike T.]

what offers the best bang for the buck upgrades on road bikes?

A proper fitting by a competent person.
Correct tire pressures for you.
The ideal tires for you.
The perfect saddle for you.
The rider (fitness, core strength, mobility).

 

[November Dave]

Mike T isn't far off with his suggestions, can't disagree with any of them.

Take this for what it's worth, coming from a person who can professionally benefit from the impulse you're now having. Riding among other people, on the road, at any kind of speed, is something to learn. You've now done it once or twice. Anticipation skills are more valuable than 20* of engagement improvement. Knowing to let a tiny gap open before a sharp turn, so that you can naturally eat that gap back up rather than needing to brake in the turn to avoid ramming into the guy ahead, and then having to HAMMER out of the turn, is worth 180* of engagement improvement in that moment.

Road riding is way different than mountain biking. You need to give yourself time to adapt and learn about road. When I did my first elite crit, I was FAR more fit than I am now, and needed every bit of that fitness in order to get through it. Now, being far less fit but far more experienced, they're pretty easy to get through just because of the skills I've developed even if I'm nowhere near as fit. The same will be true for you.

Give it time. Upgrades can happen later.

 

[Lombard]

A proper fitting by a competent person.
Correct tire pressures for you.
The ideal tires for you.
The perfect saddle for you.
The rider (fitness, core strength, mobility).

This.

Especially the first one on this list. If you haven't had a proper fitting from a reputable bike shop, do it now. For around $100-200, it will greatly enhance your enjoyment of the bike more than any component upgrade. And make sure it is a shop who will do it correctly - that is they will put you and your bike on a trainer, watch you pedal and make adjustments to dial in your fit. If you talk to other people you ride with, they can give you feedback on which shops are good or bad.

 

[Magsrgod]

Yeah I should poke around for where the killer bike fitters are. I'm 5'6" and I ended up on a 53cm frame, I was also looking at a Giant TCR that was M/L size which I think worked out to 53.5cm frame. They said they could have made either of them fit me.

The shop I got it from has a great rep and has been around for quite sometime. They did put me on the trainer, watched my spin, adjusted my seat height, adjust the seat rails and used a large T-Square to make sure everything was lining up correctly. The also had me get my shoes (MTB spd shoes) and put the same pedals on that I run. The only thing I would say they didn't look much at was if the stem was proper length but that could have been the seat adjustment.

For tires I'm running Kenda Kriterium 23c, PSI is at 80 on both F/R and I weigh 160lbs right now without shoes or helmet. I'll wait until I develop all the road saddle sores before I get a new seat but that will probably be on the list. I'm also thinking I might look into some better chamois than what I use for mtb'ing.

 

[Lombard]

Yeah I should poke around for where the killer bike fitters are. I'm 5'6" and I ended up on a 53cm frame, I was also looking at a Giant TCR that was M/L size which I think worked out to 53.5cm frame. They said they could have made either of them fit me.

This really doesn't sound right. My guess is that your correct size would be more like a 51cm. Then again, maybe your proportions are such that a 53cm works better? Don't know for sure.

The shop I got it from has a great rep and has been around for quite sometime. They did put me on the trainer, watched my spin, adjusted my seat height, adjust the seat rails and used a large T-Square to make sure everything was lining up correctly. The also had me get my shoes (MTB spd shoes) and put the same pedals on that I run.

This is good so far. And I agree with using MTB SPD shoes. Many road riders use these. Some on this forum will disagree, but there is nothing wrong with this.

The only thing I would say they didn't look much at was if the stem was proper length but that could have been the seat adjustment.

No. A good fitter will not adjust the seat to compensate for an incorrect stem length. They are two totally different parts of your fit.

I'll wait until I develop all the road saddle sores before I get a new seat but that will probably be on the list. I'm also thinking I might look into some better chamois than what I use for mtb'ing.

There is a chance you may not have any problems here. If you do, I would look into good quality shorts with a good 3D chamois before you start condemning your saddle. Here is the one I use:

Men's ELITE In-R-Cool® Short | Pearlizumi

 

[Jay Strongbow]

Yeah I should poke around for where the killer bike fitters are. I'm 5'6" and I ended up on a 53cm frame, I was also looking at a Giant TCR that was M/L size which I think worked out to 53.5cm frame. They said they could have made either of them fit me.

TCR M/L has a 57cm top tube. Please tell me I'm missing something here and a shop didn't say they could fit a 5'6" person on a 57.

 

[Magsrgod]

I believe so, it was a 2013 TCR 1, Ultegra parts, white with blue accents. I didn't get that one because I felt too stretched out on it. The Masi just felt better when I was on it.

I also rode around on a M Scott Solace and I think a Speedster as well.

 

[Lombard]

TCR M/L has a 57cm top tube. Please tell me I'm missing something here and a shop didn't say they could fit a 5'6" person on a 57.

To add to the confusion, while most road bike sizes are based on horizontal top tube length (not actual top tube length), a few brands are sized based on seat tube length.

 

[AndreSF]

This really doesn't sound right. My guess is that your correct size would be more like a 51cm. Then again, maybe your proportions are such that a 53cm works better? Don't know for sure.

^^^ agreed. I'm about the same size as OP, and that was my finding for good frame size ^^^

This is good so far. And I agree with using MTB SPD shoes. Many road riders use these. Some on this forum will disagree, but there is nothing wrong with this.

^^^ all good, I eventually made the switch to road pedals when I moved to stiffer shoes. ^^^

No. A good fitter will not adjust the seat to compensate for an incorrect stem length. They are two totally different parts of your fit.



There is a chance you may not have any problems here. If you do, I would look into good quality shorts with a good 3D chamois before you start condemning your saddle. Here is the one I use:

Men's ELITE In-R-Cool® Short | Pearlizumi

If you go to a Specialized store, they have a butt pad you sit on to determine your sit bone width. Also, some brands (Bontrager and Fizik come to mind) have loaner saddles that you "buy", try out, trade for other models, until you find the right one. It's a great deal. Don't make the same mistake I did in buying a fancy Brooks saddle to find out it was completely wrong for my behind. It took years to find the right bibs for me too.